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1st gen 4runner rear disc brake install

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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 03:25 PM
  #21  
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[quote=RMA;51235803]Yea I know the rotor fits the caliper , But when installing the SFA Rotor over the wheel hub do you have to grind the hub down or does the rotor fit over the hub without grinding of the Hub?





the sfa rotor goes on the back side of the axle shaft flange, and the wheel studs get pressed through it, u do have to grind out the center of the rotor to fit onto the back of the axle flange.
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 03:57 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by RMA
I really dont Know the best position for the bracket and caliper for braking purposes , I do know that the one impotant thing to know is that the bleeder screw has to be on top .
Ok that makes sense. The guy I was talking to was trying to explain to me that the caliper had to be on the top (no matter what the current vehicle makers are doing) so that your braking force stopped the forward and downward movement of the rotating mass, AKA the tire. I figured that since the rotating mass is round and driven by an axle (same force on any point on the rotating mass) that it wouldn't matter where you mounted it just as long as the bleeder was on the highest point on the caliper so that any air in the line would migrate to the bleeder and stay out of the line.

I'm guessing I'm right in thinking that his advice, although freely given, was a little off the mark?
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 07:24 PM
  #23  
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[QUOTE=85excab;51235819]
Originally Posted by RMA
Yea I know the rotor fits the caliper , But when installing the SFA Rotor over the wheel hub do you have to grind the hub down or does the rotor fit over the hub without grinding of the Hub?





the sfa rotor goes on the back side of the axle shaft flange, and the wheel studs get pressed through it, u do have to grind out the center of the rotor to fit onto the back of the axle flange.

Well there you go , I know absolutly Nothing about SFA and their rotors , just that the ones ive riden in ride like crap.
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Old Sep 23, 2009 | 07:26 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Junkers88
Ok that makes sense. The guy I was talking to was trying to explain to me that the caliper had to be on the top (no matter what the current vehicle makers are doing) so that your braking force stopped the forward and downward movement of the rotating mass, AKA the tire. I figured that since the rotating mass is round and driven by an axle (same force on any point on the rotating mass) that it wouldn't matter where you mounted it just as long as the bleeder was on the highest point on the caliper so that any air in the line would migrate to the bleeder and stay out of the line.

I'm guessing I'm right in thinking that his advice, although freely given, was a little off the mark?


Im sure there is a "Better " Position for the calipers But I dont know it.
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 10:00 AM
  #25  
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So I finally finished bleeding the brakes ,installed the driveshaft,changed out one bleeder screw (front calipers) and drove this thing .

The pedal feels fine not hard or soft just fine . I dont feel that the rear brakes are locking up , they seem to be braking the same (front and back).
To be honest I dont really know what it feels like for the rear brakes to Lock up can someone tell me if there is a test or something to know .


When I did the zuk mod I never lowered the lsvp valve so its in the original position and the rear end is lifted a bit, id say around 2" maybe this has something to do with the rear not locking up.



and about the lockright install , with no oil in the housing this thing is loud , once I put oil and drove it I did notice the tires screatching around the corners.

Last edited by RMA; Sep 27, 2009 at 10:02 AM.
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 11:10 AM
  #26  
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If you raise up the rod off the axle, you'll notice the brakes "engaging" a little more.
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 01:42 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by RMA
When I did the zuk mod I never lowered the lsvp valve so its in the original position and the rear end is lifted a bit, id say around 2" maybe this has something to do with the rear not locking up.
Originally Posted by BigBluePile
If you raise up the rod off the axle, you'll notice the brakes "engaging" a little more.
Well damn. Now I know why my brakes are all funky.


I'll go move that bracket right after I finish this beer..........
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 01:49 PM
  #28  
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i also make a trick little part that fixes that
lspv adjuster
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 02:30 PM
  #29  
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cool little bracket , How Much .

this bracket basically makes the lspv valve a manual valve .


So just cut the rod back about 1" or so from the valve install eye bolt ,adjust then lock down ,is this about it?



Pm sent ..
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 02:34 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by BigBluePile
If you raise up the rod off the axle, you'll notice the brakes "engaging" a little more.

Thanks !!!
Originally Posted by Junkers88
Well damn. Now I know why my brakes are all funky.


I'll go move that bracket right after I finish this beer..........

you could also just bend the rod like Biggieblue suggests..
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by RMA
you could also just bend the rod like Biggieblue suggests..
Not necessarily bend it but just add an extension bracket to raise it up.

Last edited by BigBluePile; Sep 27, 2009 at 05:09 PM.
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 04:48 PM
  #32  
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Looks real good!!!
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 12:30 AM
  #33  
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Dude RMA. the amount of work you put into your rig.. you gotta come up for a trail ride one of these days. I gotta see a V8 in a 1st gen first hand.
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:41 PM
  #34  
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damn i need to check my threads more often..

john i will hopefully make it up there in june tag along on fairys trip, if you go out before then let me know i may just join you so long that its on the weekend...

and thanks ..
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 02:06 AM
  #35  
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I'm glad someone figured out a bracket to fit a Toyota caliper finally.

I have the GM caliper setup on my rig with Tcase brake, works same ofcourse and costs the same unless you happen to have spare set of IFS calipers which would cut costs.

I use a manual LSPV and the stocker to get my brakes adjusted right. That lil gadget for the stock LSPV is sick, i think ill make one now thnx for the idea!
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 03:20 PM
  #36  
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so do these rear disc brakes stop A LOT BETTER than stock drums? or about the same?
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 03:23 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 85excab
i also make a trick little part that fixes that
lspv adjuster

This may be a really really dumb question but does this thing take the place of a manual valve?
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 03:23 PM
  #38  
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in my case i do feel this disc brake setup stops me alot faster than the drums , alot faster.
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Old Jan 25, 2010 | 03:25 PM
  #39  
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junkers , i do think so , i dont have one , but it looks to me that yea it would .

i mean you adjust it until it feells right then leave it alone ..
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 08:49 PM
  #40  
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I had enquired on the phone to LC Engineering about their rear disc conversion kit. My main question to them was, aside from the standard/metric extended lines etc., what was different about their kit that allowed the parking brake to be used on the calipers provided.

I stated that the pre-machined disc were available elsewhere as were the majority of the other parts. I asked if their calipers were any different than the GM Monte Carlo calipers typically used for this swap, the guy on the phone said they weren't.

I asked why then do people say they are unable to set up the parking brake on these calipers when your kit, at an additional $300 over the non-ebrake kit, says it can be functional. He responded that the main difficulty had to do with the angle at which the calipers were set and that if it was set just so that the ebrake on the calipers would be functional.

Anybody wanna weigh in on this? I could sort this sort of conversion for a hell of a lot cheaper than what LCE is asking, nevermind shipping and customs.
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