1st gen 4runner rear disc brake install
#1
1st gen 4runner rear disc brake install
So I ordered some brackets from 85excab for the rear disc brake conversion.
here is a link to his thread.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f11/...rakets-179881/
85excab brackets
1997 tacoma v6 4x4 rotors
1992 4runner 4x4 v6 calipers
Be sure your wheel bearings are in good condition before you do the rear disc brake conversion.
My where fine so I went ahead and did it.
ok I removed the tires ,drums and brake hardware then tried to fit the rotors.


They would not fit so i started to grind down the hub a bit until they fit . I did have to stop every now and then to let it cool down a bit.
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOwjjxFyXjM[/YOUTUBE]
once the rotor fit I then pounded out 3 of the 4 bolts holding the axle to the housing.
then I removed the last bolt and took the axle out .

I then cut the backing plate and removed that.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
I then put the axle back on with 1 of the original bolts and 3 longer bolts , and also put the disc caliper bracket on.
I then put the rotor on with all the lug nuts .
I then test fitted the caliper , it needed some grinding to the mounting tabs it has.Once I grinded enough , I installed it and now I have rear disc brakes.






I put the caliper on the backside of the rotor so I could still use the original brake lines .
I still need to add a manual valve and test drive it , but I will do that after I install the 4:88's ,lockright ,and new bilsteins this week..
here is a link to his thread.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f11/...rakets-179881/
85excab brackets
1997 tacoma v6 4x4 rotors
1992 4runner 4x4 v6 calipers
Be sure your wheel bearings are in good condition before you do the rear disc brake conversion.
My where fine so I went ahead and did it.
ok I removed the tires ,drums and brake hardware then tried to fit the rotors.


They would not fit so i started to grind down the hub a bit until they fit . I did have to stop every now and then to let it cool down a bit.
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOwjjxFyXjM[/YOUTUBE]
once the rotor fit I then pounded out 3 of the 4 bolts holding the axle to the housing.
then I removed the last bolt and took the axle out .

I then cut the backing plate and removed that.
[IMG]
[/IMG]I then put the axle back on with 1 of the original bolts and 3 longer bolts , and also put the disc caliper bracket on.
I then put the rotor on with all the lug nuts .
I then test fitted the caliper , it needed some grinding to the mounting tabs it has.Once I grinded enough , I installed it and now I have rear disc brakes.






I put the caliper on the backside of the rotor so I could still use the original brake lines .
I still need to add a manual valve and test drive it , but I will do that after I install the 4:88's ,lockright ,and new bilsteins this week..
Last edited by RMA; Sep 13, 2009 at 05:38 PM.
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#10
Lots of grinding man , grinding that hub took the most time.
Do it to it Jack !!
THanks ,Hey I wonder if I could bother and ask you to take a couple pics of your trans brake , I need to do that but am unsure if it will fit , My tranny is kind of high up .I will pm you ..
Thanks for the quick shipping man !!
Yea no ebrake right now , Need to work on that one.
THanks , Whats shown here is all there is , Do it man ..
Yea I will take care of that .
well
$50 brackets
$85 rotors there are cheaper ones
calipers free
bolts had them here dont remember what I paid for them .
I still need a manual valve but dont know what it costs because I havnet ordered it yet.
Remember you will not have an e brake and might want to do something about that.
Do it to it Jack !!
Thanks for the quick shipping man !!
THanks , Whats shown here is all there is , Do it man ..
Yea I will take care of that .
well
$50 brackets
$85 rotors there are cheaper ones
calipers free
bolts had them here dont remember what I paid for them .
I still need a manual valve but dont know what it costs because I havnet ordered it yet.
Remember you will not have an e brake and might want to do something about that.
Last edited by RMA; Sep 13, 2009 at 07:40 PM.
#11
Sure thing, let me know. I think I already have some, but I'll snag some more tomorrow.
#12
So I thought i type a little update , im pretty much finished just need to bleed the brakes and fill the diff and put my drive shaft back on .
I did put the lockright in and some new bilsteins on in the rear.
maybe tomorrow i will do whats left ,depends what im in the mood for because i started my welding cart today also .
I think I can update my sig though.
I did put the lockright in and some new bilsteins on in the rear.
maybe tomorrow i will do whats left ,depends what im in the mood for because i started my welding cart today also .
I think I can update my sig though.
#14
I did mine using these brackets but I did the SFA rotors and calipers. Mine stops in a damn hurry but still got to dial the valve down a bit more, I'm still getting a bit of rear lockup right at the end. Nice thing is no more muddy drum brakes.
#15
this is a great write up and excellent pics. nice job man!
i have a question. could you have selected a caliper from a rear disc vehicle which already had a mechanical lever to attach an e-brake cable...if you weren't going to do the tranny brake?
i have a question. could you have selected a caliper from a rear disc vehicle which already had a mechanical lever to attach an e-brake cable...if you weren't going to do the tranny brake?
#16
Dude I dont know yet , I havnet driven her since then , need to fill the diff and bleed the brakes .
You cannot use the calipers from the eldorados or others with ebrake included , at least not with these brackets .
#18
Looks good! I really want to do this but being in an apartment doesn't make it easy to work on my rig. I do have two questions though.
Does it matter where you mount the bracket and caliper? I've been told that it needs to be on top of the rotor for better braking but that didn't make sense to me. Thoughts?
Oh and have you though about using a line-lock as an parking brake instead of a t-case mounted one? I don't know if it will work for that purpose and just wanted to ask.
Does it matter where you mount the bracket and caliper? I've been told that it needs to be on top of the rotor for better braking but that didn't make sense to me. Thoughts?
Oh and have you though about using a line-lock as an parking brake instead of a t-case mounted one? I don't know if it will work for that purpose and just wanted to ask.
#20
Looks good! I really want to do this but being in an apartment doesn't make it easy to work on my rig. I do have two questions though.
Does it matter where you mount the bracket and caliper? I've been told that it needs to be on top of the rotor for better braking but that didn't make sense to me. Thoughts?
Oh and have you though about using a line-lock as an parking brake instead of a t-case mounted one? I don't know if it will work for that purpose and just wanted to ask.
Does it matter where you mount the bracket and caliper? I've been told that it needs to be on top of the rotor for better braking but that didn't make sense to me. Thoughts?
Oh and have you though about using a line-lock as an parking brake instead of a t-case mounted one? I don't know if it will work for that purpose and just wanted to ask.
I really dont Know the best position for the bracket and caliper for braking purposes , I do know that the one impotant thing to know is that the bleeder screw has to be on top .
I put mine at the back of the hub just so I could use the existing brake lines and not have to buy longer ones .
I just recently found out about this Line lock thing , BigBluepile brought it to my attention , after a little searching I found that this can only be used temporary or you will burn the line lock out , or something along those lines.
So I will have to get the trans e -brake , and modifiy my crossmember again.






