No way the dealership touches anything I own. Not after my past experience with them. I'm not so much concerned about the little stuff, it's par for the course with any older vehicle. Having worked as a mechanic before going back to college, and always doing my own work, at least I know the repair labor will be cheap. Stock the fridge with beer and away I go.

 

That's the way to go. I do the work on mine as well, but I like to do a cost/benefit analysis before I dig in so I ask the dealer how much they would charge. I did wheel bearings and front brakes for about $100 and one nights worth of greasy hands. Probably saved myself $800-900.

 

If nothing else, a dealership quote is good for a laugh.

 

that's a nice Runner. the dash isn't even cracked. assuming there's nothing wrong mechanically, i think it's a fair deal considering that it has a rebuilt engine. it all depends on the market in your area. the rear doesn't even look to be sagging and it has a tow hitch to boot. that said, here are some things i'd check:

1) frame rusted through (bring a screwdriver & poke hard at the frame)
2) torn CV boots (shafts need to be replaced)
3) steering linkage (idler arm/tie rods need to be rebuilt/replaced)
4) make sure engine oil/antifreeze is not milky
5) drive it (2HI/4HI/4LOW) and make sure the locking hubs are easy to lock
6) check wipers, windshield washer & lights (signal, parking, headlights, high beam, hazard)

these are just some things off the top of my head. some are major but others you can nitpick on to try and bring the price down. also, it would be good to have cash on hand. if you whip out $3000 cash, the seller might fold on the spot.

 

Seriously, if you don't buy it, I'm going to... haha that looks like a great deal

 

I paid around $3800 for a 200k white 4runner, TX, in good shape. Bone stock motor, but I did compression test it before purchase. It's an OK price - not great, but OK.

My first thought is that "rebuilt" motors aren't usually rebuilt. Look around at the "rebuilt" posts here on yotatech.. Many "rebuilds" are simply rering jobs and are often done with the block in the truck. When they let go in another 20k miles - which they will - don't be suprised.

A quality rebuild will run $700-$1200 in machine shop costs and parts. He should absolutely have receipts for all the machine work.. If he doesn't, I'd steer clear.... The vast majority of rebuilds I see are various degrees of crappy.

Also a "big cam" in an EFI motor doesn't aways work. Engnbldr's stuff - which is relatively mild - some users report idle issues with his hotter cams.
A really hot cam won't idle.

A true big cam requires serious valve springs and additional tuning to go with it. Ask for the spec of the cam... It'll make a big difference in how that thing runs/idles/behaves. You don't want to spend $3800 on something that you've got to work on...

Truck looks good though... Just dig into the motor issues.

 

From what he's told me thus far, the rebuild sounds thorough. Full head rebuild, new crank, rings, all seals, etc. I have it all written down, just not on me currently. If it is as he says, this was a total rebuild.

I agree though, receipts are key. As far as I'm concerned, if there isn't any record of work being done, it wasn't done.

 

Hey now, play nice. If I don't buy it, I'll post contact info on here.

 

You are a dingin' good source of accurate info. I've seen several of your posts that are spot on, including the one quoted here.
You are absolutely correct in what you said and I should know... I have three '85 4runners, all coming from the Iowa and minn tundra.

 

ive had 2 22r trucks sofar, and both are very reliable, one 2x4, the other a 4x4, and yes, they are peppy even stock.

ask the seller to not warm it up before you get there. when you do, before you start it up, feel the radiator, and the oil (w/surgical gloves) for warm tempts. look for leaks before and after you start it.

*my last toyota only had 1 bolt holding the driveline in, (they were not oem, and were breaking in route to my house). do a 5 minute inspection before you go, turn on the hazards and walk around the truck, make sure every light works too.

check for hard starting and the cold start warm up.
my 1st one smelled bad, and i thought is was the carpet/upholstery but after removing everything down to the firewall and found a mouse nest, i realised it was the heater core.

also, check to see if the heater works well. (mine doesnt in either 22r)

get a carfax

test drive it in every gear w/everything on (fan on high, lights on, wipers, cruise control etc)

test every window for a toyota tag.
put a soft/flexible magnet on the body panels to check for bondo. but remember, its 20 years old, and if looks half as good as the photos, its a keeper.

the 4x4 must be tested too, and if the original aisin hubs rotate freely, its good. drive in 4xlow and turn hard left/ then right to make sure you dont hear clicking *(cv joints).

after the drive, check again for any leaking, and make a deal.

 

thanks. i'm no mechanic or Toy expert but i do try to pass on what i do know. much of what i know about Toyotas i picked up from this site and from experience. let's just say my '88 Runner wasn't so cheap after all. idanity gave some very good suggestions also (my heater doesn't work at all).

something you might want to do since you're a mechanic is to bring along a stethoscope & listen to the engine for any abnormal knocks or clicks. don't forget to make sure the brake lights work. if you do end up driving it home, make sure to buy the Marlin shifter seat and get it installed asap along with replacing the tranny fluid (i prefer Redline MT90). the shifter seat is almost always neglected and may no longer be recognizable. there is a good chance the pieces have probably fallen into the tranny.

 

No records = wasn't done... I'm the same way.

Ask him who did the machine work.
New pistons?
Crank polished / cut?
Block vatted?

 

At the time I talked to him, he had a very detailed Craigslist posting related to the work done on the truck. Because of that, I was pretty lazy with the notes I took when I spoke with him on the phone. The ad has since expired. Anyway, here's the few notes I took on it:

6k on motor
rebuilt head-new rockers
performance cam
new crank and rods
pistons were within spec
new rings
cylinder hone
new starter, cap, wires, rotor, plugs, battery, exhaust manifold, alternator
2" exhaust from the manifold back
4k on tires and wheels
clutch still has most friction material, replaced throw out bearing and pilot bearing
new timing chain and metal guides

That's about all I have, there was far more that he listed. Like I said, I don't buy it until I see records of work being done.

Typical8o8, I worked as a mechanic in the past, I'm now an aerospace engineer. I'm not good enough to diagnose issues with a stethoscope, unfortunately. Your fluid recomendation is a good one, it's about the first thing I do when I pick up a used car. I typically use Royal Purple, but Redline is great too. I've read about the shifter seat while browsing the site, so I'll put it at the top of my "To-Do" list. I've replaced shift bushings in several BMWs and Porsches in the past, it's always amazing just how crappy they are.

Thanks again for the advice guys, you've managed to get me excited to check it out on Sunday. From what the current owner said, up until a year ago it was owned by a lady in S. Texas that took excellent care of it. I'm hoping she had a "blank check" relationship with her mechanic, and that it's in really good shape. Have a great Thanksgiving!

 

that is about what i am going to sell mine for when i get my truck finished. seems fair, if what he is telling you is true. if he was closer i would go look at it for you. good luck and take your time, it took me almost 4 months to find my truck.

 

I sincerely hope it doesn't take me that long. I just sold my previous truck, so right now my wife and I are sharing a car. Not fun, not fun at all.

 

X2- This truck makes a great DD, and its not hard to maintain, and pretty much goes anywhere. It is getting harder to find one that has been taken care of, and rust free. IF the engine has been properly rebuilt and installed, the extra $ makes it worth the asking price or close to it anyhow. I have never come in behind someone else's job and found everything just right... There's always a few things to do in there... There are some congenital mechanical and wiring issues with this vehicle but nothing major. If you are planning to drive it home 1000 miles, make sure it drives out very well, and make sure the driveline fluids are topped off and the U-joints greased. When you get home, change ALL the fluids. The A/C will upgrade to 134a after you get the leak fixed ;-). Mine won't hold the charge, but fixing it has been low on the list...