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1993 4wd front rotor removal

Old 05-10-2015, 05:22 PM
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1993 4wd front rotor removal

Rig
1993 toyota pickup ext cab 4x4

What I can't seem to find in the toyota fsm. I can't seem to find how to remove and replace the front rotors. If someone could post up a link would appreciated.
Old 05-11-2015, 05:09 AM
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I don't have the FSM with me (on my phone), but from memory it should be.
Jack and support vehicle
Remove wheel and tire
Remove the 4wd hub selector
Remove the cone washers
Remove the wheel bearings
Remove rotor hub assembly
Unbolt rotor from back of hub.
Old 05-11-2015, 05:22 AM
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Yeah i found most of that, Looking more for the torque specs
Old 05-11-2015, 10:06 AM
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for which parts?
Old 05-11-2015, 10:09 AM
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Manual hub bolts, the larger 54mm bearing nuts. the rotor bolts, umm everything within the removal for the rotor and installation there of
Old 05-11-2015, 10:13 AM
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Rotor to Hub: 47 ft/lbs
Nut over cone washer: 23 ft/lbs
Middle screw under Free-wheel selector: 13 ft/lbs
Cap screws in Free-wheel selector: 7 ft/lbs
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...14freewhee.pdf

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...8-4wds1212.pdf
Old 05-11-2015, 10:14 AM
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A complete hot-linked Factory Service Manual is in the "Stickies" section at the top of the forum.
Old 05-11-2015, 10:33 AM
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Yes i have looked at every PDF fromt he sticky FSM, and not one thing found on how to or torque specs for the removal or install of a rotor. In some cases it says to remove it, but nothing how to. If you can find it, please paste the link.

Looking for the torque spec of the 54mm nut(s) to preload the bearings within the hub/spindle

Last edited by kcaudill; 05-11-2015 at 10:36 AM.
Old 05-11-2015, 10:49 AM
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According to Haynes, tighten the adjusting nut to 43 fp, then loosen.
Retighten the adjusting nut to 18 fp.
Install washer and locknut and tighten locknut to 33fp.
Old 05-11-2015, 11:57 AM
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Awesome, thats what i was looking for. thanks Millball


Can you confirm for me its a 54mm socket needed?

Thanks again

Last edited by kcaudill; 05-11-2015 at 12:01 PM.
Old 05-11-2015, 04:40 PM
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IDK. I no longer have my '94. This was going off memory and the FSM. But to be honest setting the wheel bearings I always used a big pair of channel locks and spun them. I've regreased hundreds if not thousands of front ends and always spun the wheels to set load.
Old 05-11-2015, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by kcaudill
Can you confirm for me its a 54mm socket needed?

Thanks again
I think thats right. A 2 and 1/8 inch socket is about the same.
Old 05-31-2015, 12:53 PM
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if you can find an FSM then get a Haynes manual off ebay, they will help Alot!!!
Old 06-01-2015, 02:26 PM
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I snapped off my lug stud while putting my tires back on right after I repacked my wheel bearings. When I replace the stud will I have to repack them again or will they be ok to just set back in and tighten?
Old 06-02-2015, 05:43 AM
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You should be fine with the same grease and packing job.

When you drive, the grease gets hot and thin and flows thru all of your bearings. When you repack a set of bearings you are doing two things: pushing all the remaining old grease out if there was any left after cleaning, and put grease into the bearing for initial use until the grease gets hot.

Since you haven't driven anywhere, all that freshly packed grease will still be between the rollers and the cage.
Old 06-02-2015, 05:50 AM
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Well I have drivin it too work the last couple days. Is it possible to get the stud off without removing the rotor?
Old 06-02-2015, 09:11 AM
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No, you have to remove the brake caliper, steering arm, wheel hub with rotor, remove the rotor, press out the stud, and then reassemble.
You will need
54mm socket, a special thin wall socket will only work
19 mm socket to remove the steering arm
17mm socket remove the caliper
10mm to remove the free wheel hub
12mm gold bolt and the 4wd hub
spring clip pliers
14mm socket for the rotor bolts

Parts
New star lock washer
New lock hub seal
New 4wd hub seal

Have fun :-)
Old 06-02-2015, 09:42 AM
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My hub seal and star lock washer wasn't damaged at so ill just reuse the old ones. doesn't sound that bad just time consuming. I might just wait a while. why do I need to remove the steering arm?
Old 06-02-2015, 10:18 AM
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to get the caliper out of the way. the hard line runs to a bracket that holds the steering are on, Unless you can remove the hard brake line from your caliper. i couldn't.
Old 06-02-2015, 10:44 AM
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Ok I asked because that was the first time I heard someone say anything about the steering arm. I assumed it was the same process as changing the wheel bearings(disassembling wise), then just unbolt the rotor to the hub and presto your stud is exposed. But my original ? never fully got answered about repacking. Will I need to repack again since I have driving it since my repack 3 days ago. if that's the case ill just ride with 5 lugs on one side till I change rotors or repack or something lol

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