1993 3vze Air Filter Noise
#1
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1993 3vze Air Filter Noise
Hello!
Long time lurker first time poster. I searched and couldnt find anything so i'm making a thread. I need opinions about a noise issue that started about 10 months ago but would go away after a few minutes after cold start. It now seems to want to stay for good. That was with my old motor and before i replaced pretty much every single part on this vehicle. I'm talking everything from the rear leafs & control arm bushings, to the fuel pump and the VAFM. Doug Thorley Headers, EGR, Reed, plugs, distributor, TPS, FPR, cold start injector, alternator, fuel injectors, 02 sensor, CAT, radiator, ignition coil, ignition control module, all vaccum lines, knock sensor & wire, coolant temperature sensor, timing belt, water pump, and then finally, a new motor from Oregon engine rebuilders. The super stock 3.0.
The noise happens at around 1200 RPMs and is always there on cold start, it goes away eventually when the truck is warmed up. But if you rev it up it comes back as the RPM's drop to about the range i stated. It's a gurgle noise. My mechanic has given up and said it's because of my cold air intake, which i think is bs.
Truck is a 1993 toyota pickup 4x4 5spd v6. I hooked up my OBD1 scanner and 3 codes came up. DTC 41 TPS circuit, DTC 42 VSS circuit, and DTC 43 starter signal circuit. No CEL. The timing is advanced to 12 degrees and I just passed smog clean here in cali.
Here is a youtube video
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUzisYFzZOI[/YOUTUBE]
I'm also having an issue of hesitant acceleration. Especially going uphill. I will be going uphill and it would just bog at around 3000 RPM in both 2nd and 3rd for a few secs and then open up. Compression is good in all 6 cylinders. You guys are my only hope on ideas before I go to the dealership.
Few pics of the rig
Thanks in advance!
Long time lurker first time poster. I searched and couldnt find anything so i'm making a thread. I need opinions about a noise issue that started about 10 months ago but would go away after a few minutes after cold start. It now seems to want to stay for good. That was with my old motor and before i replaced pretty much every single part on this vehicle. I'm talking everything from the rear leafs & control arm bushings, to the fuel pump and the VAFM. Doug Thorley Headers, EGR, Reed, plugs, distributor, TPS, FPR, cold start injector, alternator, fuel injectors, 02 sensor, CAT, radiator, ignition coil, ignition control module, all vaccum lines, knock sensor & wire, coolant temperature sensor, timing belt, water pump, and then finally, a new motor from Oregon engine rebuilders. The super stock 3.0.
The noise happens at around 1200 RPMs and is always there on cold start, it goes away eventually when the truck is warmed up. But if you rev it up it comes back as the RPM's drop to about the range i stated. It's a gurgle noise. My mechanic has given up and said it's because of my cold air intake, which i think is bs.
Truck is a 1993 toyota pickup 4x4 5spd v6. I hooked up my OBD1 scanner and 3 codes came up. DTC 41 TPS circuit, DTC 42 VSS circuit, and DTC 43 starter signal circuit. No CEL. The timing is advanced to 12 degrees and I just passed smog clean here in cali.
Here is a youtube video
[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUzisYFzZOI[/YOUTUBE]
I'm also having an issue of hesitant acceleration. Especially going uphill. I will be going uphill and it would just bog at around 3000 RPM in both 2nd and 3rd for a few secs and then open up. Compression is good in all 6 cylinders. You guys are my only hope on ideas before I go to the dealership.
Few pics of the rig
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by Abe1337; 07-29-2012 at 11:22 PM.
#3
Registered User
Whats your timing set at?
Any CEL codes?
So the noise was there with your old motor AND is there with the new motor?
I cant watch the vids at work, ill check em out when I get home..
Any CEL codes?
So the noise was there with your old motor AND is there with the new motor?
I cant watch the vids at work, ill check em out when I get home..
#4
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Thread Starter
Timing is advanced to 12 BTDC, No CEL but my OBD1 scanner did pick up DTC 41 TPS circuit, DTC 42 VSS circuit, and DTC 43 starter signal circuit.
I have a new TPS and it's not faulty. The other two codes are new to me and i'm going to have my mechanic check them out on wednesday. I only have 500 miles on this new motor so i'm going in for my 500 mile check up etc.
Thanks for checking out my thread man.
I have a new TPS and it's not faulty. The other two codes are new to me and i'm going to have my mechanic check them out on wednesday. I only have 500 miles on this new motor so i'm going in for my 500 mile check up etc.
Thanks for checking out my thread man.
#5
Registered User
The gurgle sounds like the EGR valve to me. My truck did that when i first installed my cold air intake. it went away after i removed the egr. Since your in Commifonia im guess you cant remove the egr. Maybe it needs clean it. The VSS circuit is connected to the EGR so it could be related.
Oh btw BEAUTIFUL truck!!
Oh btw BEAUTIFUL truck!!
#6
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the PAIR valve makes a bit of a gurgle a certain rpm. That will be easily heard through the air filter. Can't fix it, but a the stock airbox and silencer actually quietens it a lot (imagine that!)
#7
From your description, I believe it is normal for the air suction system (AS) on the 3vze to make gurgling noises below certain temperatures and over 2000 rpms IIRC.
Read up on trouble shooting the AS, I believe the hose that connects to your intake at bend is making the gurgling noise and the CAI does not muffle the sound as the stock intake would. Maybe a quick way to find is disconnect that hose and run the engine. BTW great looking truck.
Read up on trouble shooting the AS, I believe the hose that connects to your intake at bend is making the gurgling noise and the CAI does not muffle the sound as the stock intake would. Maybe a quick way to find is disconnect that hose and run the engine. BTW great looking truck.
Last edited by sechott; 07-30-2012 at 05:12 PM.
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#8
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I concur with the PAIR valve assessment.
IMO, a "cold air" intake is anything but, and a waste of time. ALL FI engines I've ever seen have a resonator to tune the intake FOR A REASON.
IMO, a "cold air" intake is anything but, and a waste of time. ALL FI engines I've ever seen have a resonator to tune the intake FOR A REASON.
#9
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Thread Starter
The pair/reed valve is brand new along with the EGR. I had a K&N CAI on before I put on the S&B. Never made the noises it's making now. Even with an old Pair/reed & EGR valve. I feel like a complete idiot for not keeping my old stock intake. I have the page saved, toyotapartszone.com. I'm getting ready to fork out atleast 700 bucks for a whole new OEM intake set up if it means to clear out this damn annoying noise.
Over the past year, i've spent well over 8 G's rebuilding this truck. My old motor burnt an exhaust valve in the #6 cylinder last fall with only 80,000 miles on a rebuilt motor that I had done in 2008. Funny after how you replace almost everything, something new pops up to give you trouble. rant/end.
Between 3,000 & 4,000 RPMs in 2nd, 3rd, & 4th the truck just bogs down. You can feel it just stopping. After you hit the 4,000 rpm mark it opens right up.
Thanks for the input guys it's really appreciated.
Over the past year, i've spent well over 8 G's rebuilding this truck. My old motor burnt an exhaust valve in the #6 cylinder last fall with only 80,000 miles on a rebuilt motor that I had done in 2008. Funny after how you replace almost everything, something new pops up to give you trouble. rant/end.
Between 3,000 & 4,000 RPMs in 2nd, 3rd, & 4th the truck just bogs down. You can feel it just stopping. After you hit the 4,000 rpm mark it opens right up.
Thanks for the input guys it's really appreciated.
Last edited by Abe1337; 07-30-2012 at 08:34 PM.
#10
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Thread Starter
Decided to unplug the TPS. Once I did this the gurgle went away and I seemed to get better throttle response. Came right back once I plugger her back in. Does this mean the TPS is faulty or just out of adjustment?
#11
I would take the TPS off bench check the ohms, most likely it just need adjusted correctly with feeler gauges, .0224" between throttle screw and stop should have resistance anywhere below 2.4k ohms while checking IDL and E2 contacts and .0335 gauge same place should read open at the same contacts. Be sure to clean the spring inside the TPS. I would try finding a used intake, clean it up and it should be good.
#13
Its sounds like you may have the EGR VSV lines swapped with the AS VSV valve.
AS valve should only open during decel to keep exhaust velocity.
The EGR vsv will open at various points and durring cruise and idle.
The AS valve is louder on Cold air intakes because its SRS is removed.
AS valve should only open during decel to keep exhaust velocity.
The EGR vsv will open at various points and durring cruise and idle.
The AS valve is louder on Cold air intakes because its SRS is removed.
#14
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Interesting i'll have to double check to make sure nothing is swapped. Ediaz i'll let you know when it's figured out. I took it to my mechanic last wednesday and it's still sitting at the shop. I'm pretty pissed right now that it hasn't been worked on. They haven't even ordered my new VSS that I want. If I wasn't so busy with work I would be doing this myself.
#15
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Interesting i'll have to double check to make sure nothing is swapped. Ediaz i'll let you know when it's figured out. I took it to my mechanic last wednesday and it's still sitting at the shop. I'm pretty pissed right now that it hasn't been worked on. They haven't even ordered my new VSS that I want. If I wasn't so busy with work I would be doing this myself.
#16
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I have heard quite a few others complain of the bogging then an "almost turbo" boost after 3/3.5k rpm... LOTS of them found it to be a bad and/or maladjusted TPS. The TPS is simple to adjust in theory, but practice can be a little finicky.
Something to look into, for sure. I would try to adjust it a couple of times before ordering a new one, as the new one will have to be adjusted anyways.
Something to look into, for sure. I would try to adjust it a couple of times before ordering a new one, as the new one will have to be adjusted anyways.
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#18
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lol man I guess my mechanic was right. I never had this gurgle with a K&N. Time to go back to OEM.
Still gotta figure out why i'm getting a code for my VSS and starter signal circuit. I'm getting a new denso VSS. Some of the issues with a bad VSS is power loss and bad gas mileage, which i'm getting. Maybe just replacing the VSS will take care of the issue of power loss.
#19
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lol man I guess my mechanic was right. I never had this gurgle with a K&N. Time to go back to OEM.
Still gotta figure out why i'm getting a code for my VSS and starter signal circuit. I'm getting a new denso VSS. Some of the issues with a bad VSS is power loss and bad gas mileage, which i'm getting. Maybe just replacing the VSS will take care of the issue of power loss.
Still gotta figure out why i'm getting a code for my VSS and starter signal circuit. I'm getting a new denso VSS. Some of the issues with a bad VSS is power loss and bad gas mileage, which i'm getting. Maybe just replacing the VSS will take care of the issue of power loss.
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