1988 Buildup w/ Pics!! SAS'd, Bobbed and more to come!
#1
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1988 Buildup w/ Pics!! SAS'd, Bobbed and more to come!
grrr... still messed up... one sec...
Last edited by kwitcherbeliakin; 01-13-2009 at 07:18 PM.
#3
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OMG! Soooo much! I hope it works now!
Been wanting to do this for a long time but finally took the time to upload pictures today.
I had always wanted a Yota but for some reason always have had jeeps. :-( When I sold my last Jeep I said, "To hell
with it... I'm getting my yota." I got the older body style as I like the boxier look and the fact it has less
electrical components and computers to deal with... but should have got an 85 so I didnt have to SAS it later!
The truck when I intially got it was IFS and lifted roughly 3" on 33"x12.5" Mud Terrains. (That was 8 months ago
and the tires are still about 70% tread!! They rock...) At first I stripped out the interior paneling and
bedlinered the interior and installed new speakers/deck/subs. There were bucket seats in it when I got it as well.
I removed the stock front bumper and put on Marlins front bumper with the optional stinger... looks sweet and mean
coming at you down the road!
I am always looking for suggestions and simple fixes that make life easier! I have a list of them now and will add
more pictures as time goes on!
Here some photos wheeling it shortly after getting it on the way up Martinez Canyon here in AZ.
Then after trimming the rear skirts for more clearance! Also just before it was bobbed which is shown next!
Marked out 12" to cut out.
Measured and lined cutting area. Taped it off so my cuts came out clean. Cut off the end section with the lights in
it and removed the middle section as well. Ended up removing 14" total.
Simply used a grinder with a metal cutting wheel. Worked great... just make sure it pulls away from you instead of
toward!
Cut the frame off even with the back shackles and then rewelded the rear of them to the frame.
Lined up finally!
I almost just left it like this... looked awesome!
But had to finish it off someday!
Welded along it and man did it ever take some time to learn to weld this thin sheet metal! Welded from one side...
spott welding... then I welded it proper from the other side as I could run a bead on it if I didnt hit only sheet
metal. As long as it had some weld on it it was easy... but I ate so many holes in the bed along the weld at first!
You'll see some finished pictures of what it looks like when I repainted the whole truck later!
When I trimmed the skirts in the rear I went right to the edge of the tailgate so you can't even see the bed
underneath it.
Here are some show shots I took... it was just a beautiful truck on a beautiful day!
Now on to the Solid Axle Swap (SAS)
Here is the front IFS all removed:
I pretty much took off the tires... dropped it to the ground and then lifted it a tiny bit... just to take pressure
off the bolts. I unbolted the IFS front end and dropped it straight out, lift components and all. The parts will
all go on an 87 Runner I got for 500 recently because the engine was knocking. I'll lift her for free, rebuild the
engine, paint it and then sell it off unless I fall in love with her.
And the joys of having never done this before... first axle I bought looked great... except for looking at it from
one angle. The short end of the axle past the pumpkin was BENT!!! Slightly but it was... damn thing. Had to go buy
another one later. This was the first...
The second axle I cleaned up and then cleaned each part to bare metal and repainted it all. Added another brace and
the knuckle ball kit from Marlin and heres the axle before... and after. Also added high steer kit from Marlin.
A few more shots from the front. Good looking SAS! Took it in to get aligned and the alignment shop asked what shop
put the axle on? Told me to give tell them they did a perfect job ligning it up! Whew!!! That was my biggest
worry... that I'd put it on crooked! I was a happy camper.
BED BOB AND SAS COMPLETE!!!
The next item of business was Marlin Rock Rails and a new paint job... I was looking at going to where there was
alot of snow for a few months and my paint has chips and flakes missing all over... just what I would get in the
snow is alot of rust! So painting time.
First here are the rails welded on after removing the bed for easier painting:
I sanded down the body paint enough to remove the clear coat and ruff it up a bit so that the new paint gripped:
And the finished product! Sorry the first three are at night:
Here we go:
Another shot of the Rock Rails painted as well:
I removed the rear crossmember where the spare used to sit... it was thin metal and right behind the end of my
tailgate... kinda in the way. I cut the ends off my old hitch and welded it in as my new crossmember in the rear...
must sturdier and will take a pull to get me out of anywhere.
And yes the shackle angle does look steep but they are revolver shackles...
The light made this shot look kind of yellow but its the same as the outside. I ran out of paint with only that
much left to go!!
Driver side Rock Rail:
Tonight I just relocated my MAF sensor. I moved the starter cellenoid further forward and put a hole in the drivers
sidewall for my intake to go through. I will add a snorkle later but for now I installed it in the sidewall to save
space and not make it pull the air so far. I'll get pictures at some point to show what I mean.
My intake used to be hooked to a snorkle before I got it and so it was secured with bungees. I attached it with
bolts to the side wall sucking air through the fender. Looks good and now I have nothing on that side of the
engine. Just open space!
Driveline adjustments are next. When I SAS'd it I got a new driveline made but they didnt get my holes right so it
doesnt line up with my flanges... I might take it in to them with the flanges and have them drill them again... or
just order Marlin's triple drilled flanges... can't decide yet...
I have my gearing for front and rear but havent put it in yet since I dont have my locker for the rear or my spool
for the front. I'll do them both at the same time.
Thats about all I can think of for now... I'd love to hear some space saving engine mods for the V6 or parts that
are superfluous and I can simply dispose of... Looking forward to comments, criticisms, additions and subtractions
of any kind.
Been wanting to do this for a long time but finally took the time to upload pictures today.
I had always wanted a Yota but for some reason always have had jeeps. :-( When I sold my last Jeep I said, "To hell
with it... I'm getting my yota." I got the older body style as I like the boxier look and the fact it has less
electrical components and computers to deal with... but should have got an 85 so I didnt have to SAS it later!
The truck when I intially got it was IFS and lifted roughly 3" on 33"x12.5" Mud Terrains. (That was 8 months ago
and the tires are still about 70% tread!! They rock...) At first I stripped out the interior paneling and
bedlinered the interior and installed new speakers/deck/subs. There were bucket seats in it when I got it as well.
I removed the stock front bumper and put on Marlins front bumper with the optional stinger... looks sweet and mean
coming at you down the road!
I am always looking for suggestions and simple fixes that make life easier! I have a list of them now and will add
more pictures as time goes on!
Here some photos wheeling it shortly after getting it on the way up Martinez Canyon here in AZ.
Then after trimming the rear skirts for more clearance! Also just before it was bobbed which is shown next!
Marked out 12" to cut out.
Measured and lined cutting area. Taped it off so my cuts came out clean. Cut off the end section with the lights in
it and removed the middle section as well. Ended up removing 14" total.
Simply used a grinder with a metal cutting wheel. Worked great... just make sure it pulls away from you instead of
toward!
Cut the frame off even with the back shackles and then rewelded the rear of them to the frame.
Lined up finally!
I almost just left it like this... looked awesome!
But had to finish it off someday!
Welded along it and man did it ever take some time to learn to weld this thin sheet metal! Welded from one side...
spott welding... then I welded it proper from the other side as I could run a bead on it if I didnt hit only sheet
metal. As long as it had some weld on it it was easy... but I ate so many holes in the bed along the weld at first!
You'll see some finished pictures of what it looks like when I repainted the whole truck later!
When I trimmed the skirts in the rear I went right to the edge of the tailgate so you can't even see the bed
underneath it.
Here are some show shots I took... it was just a beautiful truck on a beautiful day!
Now on to the Solid Axle Swap (SAS)
Here is the front IFS all removed:
I pretty much took off the tires... dropped it to the ground and then lifted it a tiny bit... just to take pressure
off the bolts. I unbolted the IFS front end and dropped it straight out, lift components and all. The parts will
all go on an 87 Runner I got for 500 recently because the engine was knocking. I'll lift her for free, rebuild the
engine, paint it and then sell it off unless I fall in love with her.
And the joys of having never done this before... first axle I bought looked great... except for looking at it from
one angle. The short end of the axle past the pumpkin was BENT!!! Slightly but it was... damn thing. Had to go buy
another one later. This was the first...
The second axle I cleaned up and then cleaned each part to bare metal and repainted it all. Added another brace and
the knuckle ball kit from Marlin and heres the axle before... and after. Also added high steer kit from Marlin.
A few more shots from the front. Good looking SAS! Took it in to get aligned and the alignment shop asked what shop
put the axle on? Told me to give tell them they did a perfect job ligning it up! Whew!!! That was my biggest
worry... that I'd put it on crooked! I was a happy camper.
BED BOB AND SAS COMPLETE!!!
The next item of business was Marlin Rock Rails and a new paint job... I was looking at going to where there was
alot of snow for a few months and my paint has chips and flakes missing all over... just what I would get in the
snow is alot of rust! So painting time.
First here are the rails welded on after removing the bed for easier painting:
I sanded down the body paint enough to remove the clear coat and ruff it up a bit so that the new paint gripped:
And the finished product! Sorry the first three are at night:
Here we go:
Another shot of the Rock Rails painted as well:
I removed the rear crossmember where the spare used to sit... it was thin metal and right behind the end of my
tailgate... kinda in the way. I cut the ends off my old hitch and welded it in as my new crossmember in the rear...
must sturdier and will take a pull to get me out of anywhere.
And yes the shackle angle does look steep but they are revolver shackles...
The light made this shot look kind of yellow but its the same as the outside. I ran out of paint with only that
much left to go!!
Driver side Rock Rail:
Tonight I just relocated my MAF sensor. I moved the starter cellenoid further forward and put a hole in the drivers
sidewall for my intake to go through. I will add a snorkle later but for now I installed it in the sidewall to save
space and not make it pull the air so far. I'll get pictures at some point to show what I mean.
My intake used to be hooked to a snorkle before I got it and so it was secured with bungees. I attached it with
bolts to the side wall sucking air through the fender. Looks good and now I have nothing on that side of the
engine. Just open space!
Driveline adjustments are next. When I SAS'd it I got a new driveline made but they didnt get my holes right so it
doesnt line up with my flanges... I might take it in to them with the flanges and have them drill them again... or
just order Marlin's triple drilled flanges... can't decide yet...
I have my gearing for front and rear but havent put it in yet since I dont have my locker for the rear or my spool
for the front. I'll do them both at the same time.
Thats about all I can think of for now... I'd love to hear some space saving engine mods for the V6 or parts that
are superfluous and I can simply dispose of... Looking forward to comments, criticisms, additions and subtractions
of any kind.
#4
Contributing Member
much better
Nice man, looks good! Great job on it!
as I was scrolling down, I started thinking "all that room after the SAS, and he's run'n AT's on it? "... then I seen the MT's
Nice man, looks good! Great job on it!
as I was scrolling down, I started thinking "all that room after the SAS, and he's run'n AT's on it? "... then I seen the MT's
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
You were right about the AT. lol. There is one on there... only one. it was my spare and I punctured the sidewall of my other MT... gotta plug it myself and put it back on.
Paint was simply a metal paint that Krylon makes. I wanted rustoleum but couldnt find the right color or enought of it. It was the only one I could find enough of without ordering it. Color was... ahh hell I better remember that before I go back to the store. It was a SATIN paint. Not metallic and not primer or flat... but SATIN... whatever that is supposed to be. Turned out good though... can't wait to start painting the runner. Not bad for a first timer eh?
We'll see how the paint holds up against weather and nature though... lol. Worst case I learned how to paint and I am out $60 for paint... and they charge an arm and a leg to get it done professionally... all that overhead and labor!
Paint was simply a metal paint that Krylon makes. I wanted rustoleum but couldnt find the right color or enought of it. It was the only one I could find enough of without ordering it. Color was... ahh hell I better remember that before I go back to the store. It was a SATIN paint. Not metallic and not primer or flat... but SATIN... whatever that is supposed to be. Turned out good though... can't wait to start painting the runner. Not bad for a first timer eh?
We'll see how the paint holds up against weather and nature though... lol. Worst case I learned how to paint and I am out $60 for paint... and they charge an arm and a leg to get it done professionally... all that overhead and labor!
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#8
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Thread Starter
It ended up costing more than I wanted since I had to buy TWO axles... but I could do it for cheaper now...
It cost me somewhere between 1000-2000.
I did 98% myself with some help from a neighbor who was a custom mechanic. I took the final welding of my front spring hanger to a welding shop and had them weld it 'professionally' for about $100 along with touching up some other welds and my front shock hoops. I didnt want it to fall off on the trail anywhere from a busted weld I put on.
Hmm... cost...
Diff armor $69
2 Axles $600 (300 each)
Axle Gusset $25
Ubolt Flip Kit $50
Marlin Crossover Steering $300
Rebuilding Axles $120
Welding (Self+Shop) $200
SAS Parts (Marlin) $200
What does that total? I think that was about all... Just over $1500 total + messups...
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Couldnt be any harder to go white from your color than from red to mine!
Just rough it up to get rid of the clear coat and then spackle it with primer to dull the color! Then have a blast! You going to go white FLAT or white METALLIC? Rustoleum has both if I am not mistaken.
Good luck if you do decide to do it. Though it you live where its cold you'll want to wait till its warm! PAint doesnt dry right when its cold... too bad I had to learn that the hard way the first time. It looks like a bloody orange peel!
Just rough it up to get rid of the clear coat and then spackle it with primer to dull the color! Then have a blast! You going to go white FLAT or white METALLIC? Rustoleum has both if I am not mistaken.
Good luck if you do decide to do it. Though it you live where its cold you'll want to wait till its warm! PAint doesnt dry right when its cold... too bad I had to learn that the hard way the first time. It looks like a bloody orange peel!
#12
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Thread Starter
Why not? I take it your against it?
I've heard arguments both ways... but on road its hardly ever in 4 unless in snow... which is rare in AZ. I figure its cheaper and I just unlock the hubs and no problem. Right? or is there something I'm missing?
I've heard arguments both ways... but on road its hardly ever in 4 unless in snow... which is rare in AZ. I figure its cheaper and I just unlock the hubs and no problem. Right? or is there something I'm missing?
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nice build so far.. makes me miss my 85 real bad.. i painted mine baiscally the same color.. cant remember the paint brand tho.. haha got bored one summer day and next thing i know im about 8 cans of paint down and as high as a kite from the fumes lol...but IMO dont spool the front.. last time i checked birfields dont like being bound up.. iv heard that even longfields wont hold up to a spool.. but i suspose it depends on you driving style.. im not even going to worry about a locker in the front my runner till i can afford a ARB.. from what iv heard and expirenced selectable front lockers are the way to go in a yota...have a friend whos got a 89 we sased and he had a welded front for a while and he hated it, so he got a detroit for the rear and put is truetrac up front.
#15
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Thread Starter
All I'd read about the spools up front I didnt see that. So even Longfields can't hold up to em eh? I'll have to take that into consideration.
What is the life say between an alltime Detroit and a Selectable locker like ARB, etc... Does one last longer than the other and perform better or is it affected a great deal by driving habits? I've heard great things about Aussie lockers but they don't make them for my V6 rear yet!
Couldnt someone make a "birf" that went completely through the axle from one side to the other as opposed to a spool?? I just had that thought and wonder if its been done or tried... it be stronger than piecing them together... Of course the gearing in axles I dont know much about yet, at least not enough to know if its even possible... I'll figure it out when I do mine. Strictly competition if it did work though. IT would suck on the road!
What is the life say between an alltime Detroit and a Selectable locker like ARB, etc... Does one last longer than the other and perform better or is it affected a great deal by driving habits? I've heard great things about Aussie lockers but they don't make them for my V6 rear yet!
Couldnt someone make a "birf" that went completely through the axle from one side to the other as opposed to a spool?? I just had that thought and wonder if its been done or tried... it be stronger than piecing them together... Of course the gearing in axles I dont know much about yet, at least not enough to know if its even possible... I'll figure it out when I do mine. Strictly competition if it did work though. IT would suck on the road!
#17
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Thread Starter
MAF Sensor Relocation Photos!
I was getting sick of the MAF being in the way. The owner before me was in the process of putting in a snorkle and really did a halfass job with it and chopped up the firewall real good!
So I had to fix it!
Here is a pic showing all the room I got in the process:
Notice it curves under the brake cylinder and then curves back up to the MAF sensor. Doesnt bend at all aside from the curve and there is no pressure on the brakes from it. I figured it is a shorter distance, gives me more room and is much more solidly mounted.
I moved the cellenoid or whatever that is below the MAF down. Notice how on one side there is no bolt. I was bolted higher up where the MAF is. I simply put the back bolt hole where the front hole (that you can see) would have been. I will drill a new hole in the front and thread it to secure it later... but its plenty solid as it is now.
Drilled 4 holes in the wall for the bolts and then cut a square to match the opening for air into the MAF.
I didnt get a picture on the inside of the fender because I didnt want to take it off but for now I have used some screen to cover it up and still maintain airflow without getting lots of dirt. I am going to get a simple round air filter to put in there before long and eventually continue the bend up for a snorkle. Like this it wont have to go so far sucking air.
And a top view from the sidewall:
So I had to fix it!
Here is a pic showing all the room I got in the process:
Notice it curves under the brake cylinder and then curves back up to the MAF sensor. Doesnt bend at all aside from the curve and there is no pressure on the brakes from it. I figured it is a shorter distance, gives me more room and is much more solidly mounted.
I moved the cellenoid or whatever that is below the MAF down. Notice how on one side there is no bolt. I was bolted higher up where the MAF is. I simply put the back bolt hole where the front hole (that you can see) would have been. I will drill a new hole in the front and thread it to secure it later... but its plenty solid as it is now.
Drilled 4 holes in the wall for the bolts and then cut a square to match the opening for air into the MAF.
I didnt get a picture on the inside of the fender because I didnt want to take it off but for now I have used some screen to cover it up and still maintain airflow without getting lots of dirt. I am going to get a simple round air filter to put in there before long and eventually continue the bend up for a snorkle. Like this it wont have to go so far sucking air.
And a top view from the sidewall:
Last edited by kwitcherbeliakin; 01-15-2009 at 04:24 PM.
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I was getting sick of the MAF being in the way. The owner before me was in the process of putting in a snorkle and really did a halfass job with it and chopped up the firewall real good!
So I had to fix it!
Here is a pic showing all the room I got in the process:
Notice it curves under the brake cylinder and then curves back up to the MAF sensor. Doesnt bend at all aside from the curve and there is no pressure on the brakes from it. I figured it is a shorter distance, gives me more room and is much more solidly mounted.
I moved the cellenoid or whatever that is below the MAF down. Notice how on one side there is no bolt. I was bolted higher up where the MAF is. I simply put the back bolt hole where the front hole (that you can see) would have been. I will drill a new hole in the front and thread it to secure it later... but its plenty solid as it is now.
Drilled 4 holes in the wall for the bolts and then cut a square to match the opening for air into the MAF.
I didnt get a picture on the inside of the fender because I didnt want to take it off but for now I have used some screen to cover it up and still maintain airflow without getting lots of dirt. I am going to get a simple round air filter to put in there before long and eventually continue the bend up for a snorkle. Like this it wont have to go so far sucking air.
And a top view from the sidewall:
So I had to fix it!
Here is a pic showing all the room I got in the process:
Notice it curves under the brake cylinder and then curves back up to the MAF sensor. Doesnt bend at all aside from the curve and there is no pressure on the brakes from it. I figured it is a shorter distance, gives me more room and is much more solidly mounted.
I moved the cellenoid or whatever that is below the MAF down. Notice how on one side there is no bolt. I was bolted higher up where the MAF is. I simply put the back bolt hole where the front hole (that you can see) would have been. I will drill a new hole in the front and thread it to secure it later... but its plenty solid as it is now.
Drilled 4 holes in the wall for the bolts and then cut a square to match the opening for air into the MAF.
I didnt get a picture on the inside of the fender because I didnt want to take it off but for now I have used some screen to cover it up and still maintain airflow without getting lots of dirt. I am going to get a simple round air filter to put in there before long and eventually continue the bend up for a snorkle. Like this it wont have to go so far sucking air.
And a top view from the sidewall:
#19
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Thread Starter
Not officially.
For the moment I put two layers of a window screen I cut into circles on it with a hose clamp keeping them over the opening. I get paid tonight and will be getting it tomorrow if I get around to it. Just didnt want to suck too much dust in in the meanwhile and it ought to work till then.
I had a cone filter before but my MAF was filled with dust and mud when I took it out. I had to clean it out good and want to keep it clean!
Agreed, it will be on tomorrow. and... no offroading till then.
For the moment I put two layers of a window screen I cut into circles on it with a hose clamp keeping them over the opening. I get paid tonight and will be getting it tomorrow if I get around to it. Just didnt want to suck too much dust in in the meanwhile and it ought to work till then.
I had a cone filter before but my MAF was filled with dust and mud when I took it out. I had to clean it out good and want to keep it clean!
Agreed, it will be on tomorrow. and... no offroading till then.