Trolling trolling trolling. A friend of mine checked at a scrap yard today, they're going to call around for me.

I ordered the shift boot and arm rest cover from that company in the UK. Should be here within a week or two.

 

not sure if you need the bar as well as the cover, but it looks like these guys have the chrome rear bumper:

http://market.autopartsfair.com/toyo...t_type=bumpers

 

nice runner, i had an 87 runner , traded it for a 91 extra cab 4x4 , than sold that because it started having problems with the 3.slow, now i got a 87 toyota xtra cab , miss the runner but i like having the pick up bed. Looks like you got a good deal on that one for sure, still pretty much intact. good luck on your build, jealous lol

 

ZUCKDAN, you the man!

yeah, I'm not sure if he's gonna need the brackets... BEST WISHES ON THAT! lol... not easy to find, IIRC>.. but mine were ok, just needed a lil pounding out to true.. And even then, the one bolting location is into the bottom of the bed.... And if you have been hit back there, like I had I guess(PO had dent when I got it)... it pushes up the body part. I had to add shims in a couple spots.. but it worked just fine

This one is the one I would grab, if you just need the facebar, OP>>>

NEARLY to the bottom>>>

Description: BUMPER FACE BAR, STEEL, CHROME

THIS REPLACEMENT BUMPER FACE BAR IS CONSTRUCTED FROM HIGH QUALITY GAUGE OF STEEL TO ENSURE STRENGTH AND SAFETY DURING COLLISION; BUILT TO MATCH OE SPECIFICATIONS FOR THAT PRECISION FITTING, SERVICE, AND PROTECTION. ON TOP OF THAT, THIS PRODUCT IS SUPPLIED BY A CAPA CERTIFIED, ISO/TS16949, AND ISO9001 MANUFACTURING FACILITY.

NOTES:

REQUIRES NO DRILLING
REPLACES OE NUMBER 5210589106
DOES NOT INCLUDE BRACKETS

REPLACEMENT BRAND PARTS ARE THE MOST AFFORDABLE SOLUTION FOR ALL OF YOUR REPLACEMENT NEEDS! REPLACEMENT SPECIALIZES IN BODY PARTS AND LIGHTING PRODUCTS; IT ALSO STOCKS A WIDE ARRAY OF ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT (OE) QUALITY ELECTRICAL, BRAKES, SUSPENSION, INTAKE, EXHAUST, COOLING AND HEATING PARTS. UNLIKE MORE EXPENSIVE ITEMS FROM YOUR DEALER, THE BRAND NEW PARTS WE OFFER ARE THE MOST ECONOMICAL IN THE MARKET AND ARE THE PERFECT REPLACEMENT FOR YOUR OLD, BROKEN OR DAMAGED OEM PARTS. BEST OF ALL, ALL REPLACEMENT BRAND ITEMS ARE BACKED BY A 1-YEAR, UNLIMITED-MILEAGE WARRANTY.
, REAR
Fits:
1987 Toyota 4runner
1989 Toyota 4runner
1988 Toyota 4runner
Fit Notes: DLX, SR5: 4Cyl 2.4L
Brand: Replacement
Part Number: 3226
Brand: Replacement
OEM Number: 5210589106

Retail Price: $254.81
Discount Price: $121.91

 

Here is a breakdown of the various brackets, bolts, and trim pieces.
http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/sh...ssembly=331768

 

YEP, I had to get a 52152B and 52151C replacement as well... After being tweaked for so long, it didn't wanna cooperate and 'molding' back into place..... And it was surprisingly cheap at Toyota with 25% disc.

SEE where the 52108 pieces would bolt up into the body? THAT is where mine had to be shimmed with spacers..... I straightened that right side bracket out, but couldn't get the body portion down to make up the difference. But I tried! lol. It's straight now though, ya know?

Best wishes on this, Ez.....

And nice posts, Zuck!

 

Found a bumper. The guy at the salvage yard my friend put me in touch with. He says it is identical to a factory bumper, new in the box and he quoted me $165 + tax which seems like a lot, but might be worth it.

 

So my oil pressure gauge sits at around half when I'm driving, but drops to near the bottom when I'm idling. Is this concerning?

 

Did you get the links that got posted up?/All the banter? lol.... do you read back in YOUR thread when you log on each time EZ? hehehe... Just razzin ya... I found one on that link that Zuckard posted that was 128$ for the bumper face/Chrome/OE direct fit... Seemed to be the best deal I saw. I didn't spend much on shipping for mine... maybe 14$? It's not that heavy... Not super light, but not a tank. Check the links, k? I paid 90$... not sure why they're so much more now, just 1.5years later???? 168$ is AVERAGE aftermarket wholesale, according to most of the links in the post by Zuckard(the link to the comparison shopping site he posted)...........???

Hmmmmmmmmm, ... well, it could just be the gauge. Have you thought about unplugging the sending unit connector and running a fresh gauge/cheapo to a FRESH wire and connector?(doesn't have to be fixed there or a really pro job, ...just to get a reading on a HFreight Cheapo or something? If you get the same reading, then I'd did deeper as to why... but seeing that it's up to half at cruising speeds... that seems very good. Being near the bottom? mmmmmmmmmmmm... well, as I said on my build(I posted a video with the oil pressure in it so you could see where normal for a rebuild is).... mine is around 1/4, maybe a lil lower at idle when fully warm.... lil over half when under load/driving, just a tad over, barely. When cold, it's a lil slower to get up but holds there after a few seconds at just between quarter and half mark.. lil over half if I get right to driving(cooler oil, more pressure, right?).

I have a good link on oil pressure and signs, etc., I'll post it later, ok? Wiped out, gotta clean up, change, eat, etc., etc., ya know? hahaha.

 

Well, it's been quite some time since my last post. Been crazy busy at work and haven't had much time to work on the truck or to update the thread, but I do have some new things to report.

First, I had been noticing a faint smell of gas for a couple of days. I drove my truck down to the beach which is about 60 miles from where I live, and noticed the smell was getting much stronger. I got under there and noticed that there was gas spurting up from a pinhole in the fuel return line, hitting the bottom of the car, then leaking back down on the exhaust and vaporizing. Not a good situation. I was going to try to fix it myself, but since I was 50 miles away from home and didn't really want to start a fire or anything, I had the garage near by fix it. It took the guy about an hour and he charged me around $70 to replace the hose and put some new clamps on there. It has been running fine every since and no smell of gas.

 

Next, I finally got my boot and armrest cover! I ordered them from the ebay company Topgaiters (see previous posts regarding this company). It took 16 days, coming from the UK, which isn't terrible I guess. Including shipping, I paid $79.89 for the boot and the armrest cover. I had to email them to have them make me a grey armrest cover because they had none listed on ebay.

Here's what the items looked when they arrived:





And from the bottom:



Here is my armrest before I replaced the cover, pictured next to the cover replacement:



So, to replace the cover, you have to remove the screws from the bottom of the armrest:



Then, you pry up the black plastic piece from the cushion of the armrest:



Then you need to remove the old cover. It was stuck to it with glue and I had to peel it off, being careful not to remove any of the foam padding that was attached to the glue:









Next you need to put the new cover over the foam:



To be honest, it didn't fit perfect. I had to use tape on the bottom to stretch the leather over the foam, and even with that it was not perfect. I also had to cut part of the leather because it covered the screw holes:





Next, screw back in the black plastic piece:



And we're done:






To be honest it doesn't fit perfect. When I have time, I may take it off and try to re-stretch it to make it fit better, but it certainly was not easy and it seemed like it was not cut to exactly the right shape. That was disappointing. To their credit however, the leather is very nice quality and the color matches nicely.

 

I also had some issues with the boot. Here's what the old one looked like:



So, I was able to remove the center console thing with no problem. I did have to use a smaller Philips head bit and a leatherman pliers to get to the rear passenger screw that is difficult to reach, but with those tools it wasn't difficult.



Here is what the console looked like from underneath:



And you can see what the clips look like that hold the wire bracket into place:



Now, here is where I became frustrated again. The metal bracket inside the replacement boot did not clip into the clips like it should. With the leather wrapped around the metal, it is too large to snap into the clips. Which means when it is attached, there is nothing keeping it from falling down and having a gap between the boot and the plastic.

Ass you can see, there is a gap, and it will just get worse as you shift around the boot will fall down even more and the gap will increase:




Quite annoying. So I had to use duct tape to attach it so there is no space:




Here's what it looks all said and done. All in all, doesn't look too bad:




Still need to throw it back in the truck, I pulled the whole thing out to do the duct tape attachment. I'll post some pics once it is back in the truck (with no gap).

 

I have the exact same boot, and I understand what you're talking about. I thought it was just mine that was a bit off as far as clipping in the retainers. I put duct tape on also, BUT it only lasted one day in the california sun. It got hot inside the cab parked outside and the duct tape glue just turned to goo and it slipped down again. I got some small wood screws and screwed them into the plastic retainer part that is made to hold the boot wire so it went over the edge of the boot and held it in place and kept it from dropping down. I made sure the screws went in at an angle so nothing shows from the outside.

I tried to draw what I did below



Other than that I'm real happy with mine, looks really nice and seems like good quality. Since it's leather I coated mine with kiwi neutral shoe polish and brush shined to help protect it.

 

You screwed through the leather into the plastic? My plastic is pretty thin I can't imagine it wouldn't go through...?

 

Or are you saying you screwed into the little tabs?

 

Wow, you've been busy! lol... Sorry bout the gap... it's cuz it's thicker than stock, apparently? I wonder if you could remove it, pound out the leather for a while and thin it out really well and THEN strap it back over the frame... then try to install it in the clips? I'd read this before, which is why I waited... it's just REALLY annoying to me, I'm OCD I guess, hahaha. But LOOKS GREAT, MAN! I like the console I had done... was worth every penny of 40$.... He REALLY thought it was a bit of a PITA, so I doubt he'd do it that cheap again, hahaha... but I love having 3" foam and charcoal gray and yadda yadda so on,.... I guess you want material/sewing like you/we got... you gotta pay for it, right?

 

No on the outside and into the clips, your clips do look different though. Mine was from a 2nd gen 4runner for my pickup.

I just used one little screw per clip but I painted two to show you what I meant. It made it real snug in there, even more flush than the OEM one I had in there, I hated all that dust and dirt crap getting stuck in that little crack. I can even press down firmly and it still stays up.

 

Ok, so what I decided to do was to remove the metal frame from the old boot and use that. I had to cut the old boot off the metal frame, pull the new boot off its frame, which by the way is not metal, it's flimsy, green, larger, and just does not have the same firmness as the stock frame, which is why it doesn't snap in to the clips. So then I put the new boot around the old metal frame and super glued the edges around the metal frame.

This is what the stock metal frame looks like after cutting the boot away:



Here you will see the crappy green frame that came with the replacement boot:



Now I put the new boot around the stock frame:



And super glue the edges around the metal frame (in this picture you also see the crappy replacement frame to the right):



Pop it into the console, and it snaps into place!:

 

THAT'S AWESOME! Wow, I knew it had to be something like that... I must have missed the "new boot came with replacement frame"... but do remember SOMETHING replacement oriented, hahaha. Anyway, YEAH, that's what I'm talkin bout!

 

Weird. My boot popped right in from the top. I didn't even have to remove the bezel. It took less than 5 minutes to install. I don't have a padded console lid but I would bet that after 20+ years the foam is a bit compressed. You might get a sheet of poly batting and pad the lid a little. It should cost less than $5 for what you need. From here the pictures look great.