1987 4Runner Paint Pitted w/ Rust.
#1
1987 4Runner Paint Pitted w/ Rust.
I picked up this 4runner over the weekend and am wanting to get the paint looking good again. I've done research and found plenty of posts about waxing and polishing the paint but haven't seen many with rust-pitted paint repairs.
Wouldn't mind some advice on repairing this please! And with the rest of the paint, would waxing be sufficient enough to make the faded spots look like the other areas with top coat still?
Looking for advice on products to use for removing rust, repainting the spot, and top coating it.
Last edited by Idaho Yota; 04-29-2019 at 09:36 AM.
#2
Registered User
Wow it looks straight otherwise. I'll take that rust over New England rot holes any day. That looks like Southwest rust to me.(or maybe Idaho...duh)
There's not much you can do short of stripping it, eliminating the rust and painting it I think. Maybe use rust converter on it if you just wanted to preserve it.
There's not much you can do short of stripping it, eliminating the rust and painting it I think. Maybe use rust converter on it if you just wanted to preserve it.
Last edited by Melrose 4r; 04-29-2019 at 08:30 AM.
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SomedayJ (04-29-2019)
#3
Registered User
more photos?
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SomedayJ (04-29-2019)
#5
Registered User
Yeah! looks good! minimal rust and dents.
Are these easy to find in Idaho?
What were they asking for it?( if you don't mind)
Values of the unmolested are going up.
Are these easy to find in Idaho?
What were they asking for it?( if you don't mind)
Values of the unmolested are going up.
#6
In this condition? Not easy at all they're always beat to hell. he wanted $3500, I offered $2700 he came back with $3k. I told him sure if he throws in the 84 solid front axle he also had for sale. Then at time of meeting I got him down to $2900. Was a super cool guy!
#7
Registered User
Yeah, I think you did well. Is it the 22RE? rebuilt or original miles?
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#8
Nice! that's refreshing hearing someone else think it was a decent deal too. Thanks!
#9
Registered User
wax works great, on paint. which you have none of that left. if you want it looking "nice and new" again your ganna have to sand it down and repaint it, and pick up some decals from james dean.
#10
#11
Registered User
mine looked about like yours when I picked it up. I just sanded it down, taped off what I needed, and took it to a paint shop and had them put a single stage metallic silver on it. I liked the single stage for the vintage look but that's up to your preference. I used a local shop not a chain. as far as wax, theres a million brands and they all do the same thing. I like synthetic ones because they are a little easier to work with than traditional carnuba. heres picture for reference of my truck, we have the same paint scheme, like I said I used the james dean graphics and a single stage metallic silver paint.
Last edited by keycw; 04-29-2019 at 12:27 PM.
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Idaho Yota (04-29-2019),
old87yota (04-29-2019)
#12
mine looked about like yours when I picked it up. I just sanded it down, taped off what I needed, and took it to a paint shop and had them put a single stage metallic silver on it. I liked the single stage for the vintage look but that's up to your preference. I used a local shop not a chain. as far as wax, theres a million brands and they all do the same thing. I like synthetic ones because they are a little easier to work with than traditional carnuba. heres picture for reference of my truck, we have the same paint scheme, like I said I used the james dean graphics and a single stage metallic silver paint.
#13
Registered User
thank you. I will not pretend to be a professional body or paint shop, but I will tell you that trying to repair one section of paint isn't really and option. youll need to do the entire truck if you want it to look right.
#14
Registered User
WRT painting, I spent last summer doing body work and paint on my truck. One thing I learned is, if the existing layer is intact and well-adhered to the metal there is no need to entirely remove it. But with this kind of "sun burnt" rust you will have to remove it, prime all the bare metal surfaces with an etching primer, then repaint. I used base coat/clear coat process because it's more forgiving for a DIY painter like me but the single stage will also get great results in the hands of somebody with more experience. If that truck was mine, I would do the body work myself to the primer level, block sand all the primer and then take it to a place like MAACO for the spray job. The sad fact is, even doing your own body/paint work is still expensive because you need the right tools and quality products and there's a BIG learning curve.
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keycw (04-30-2019)
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