1986 4Runner 22RE rough idle, rich, no power
06-19-2010, 05:35 PM
#81
Hahaha,
Ok, now, just remember, ....YOU OWN THIS INANIMATE THING, and I mean literally, yes, lol....but ALSO FIGURATIVELY! Just like a computer, it only knows what we program it to know. Every one of these things has a pattern in which it works, and IT HAS TO AT LEAST COME CLOSE, or .....NUH UH! lol. Trust me, I know what it's like, and I've been at mine since April in whatever spare time I can fish up. I could look at it as though I'm wasting time that I could be doing something else....but then, ....what about when I REALLY NEED THIS THING to be dependable, right?
Sorry, I'm NOT trying to patronize you, nor do I presume that you're not telling yourself everything I said, EVERY DAY, ....to keep from rolling it into traffic! hahaha.(just kidding, Roja! lol). Just a friendly reminder of the facts, right?....as well as one other, ...AT LEAST WE CAN DO MOST OF IT OURSELVES OR LEARN TO, EH? lol.
Sorry bout the trip.....If you've read my thread you know I drove 6 HOURS for NOTHINGGGGGGG! At least, ...that's what I thought, until I left the yard that sent me out there with GOODIES FOR CHEAP! Keep hunting, brudda, you'll find what you need. I'd offer my other ECU but, yeah, ...no worky too good! lol.
I'd like to find a "22re Troubleshooting ONLY manual and Step-by-Step Book for Dummies"....you know, one that says, "Ok, first, check this, then this, then this, then this,....WHAT?...THAT OTHER THIS ISN'T WORKING RIGHT?...this could be a problem, go BACK and double check at this(ECU)" or whatever, lol. It's ALL doable, ......but it can feel like you're chasing your tail, TRUST ME, I KNOW! also, ...THEY'RE OLD AS DIRT, and while they're 10 TIMES the vehicles, still, that some newer models of other makes are, ....CRAP GET'S OLD, looses connection, overheats, cracks, ...or just plum wears out, right?
It does operate, for the most part, in a simple way.(Thook, don't attack me if I get things out of order a lil, hahaha)... First the ignition switches on the Fuel pump, driving it through the rails to the CSI, through the FPR, then the coil/ignitor kick in to use that compression for da go go, lol, then the IACV stays open initially, taking over fuel-air initially, for a short time, then drops to closed loop as the coolant warms and sets off multiple sensors, all of which are regulated or sometimes even shut off by the ECU(like when you brake and your idle is over 1000....'fuel cut system' kicks in). Then the O2 sensor comes into play, relaying whether to lean or enrich fuel(This can TOTALLY screw with your head, hahaha). Within a minute, your Coil, Ignitor, CSI time switch, CSI, fuel Pump, FPR, VSV, BVSV, EGR, EGR Modulator, ECU, Coolant Temp sensor, Thermo Temp Time Switch, Charcoal Canister, IACV, TPS, Throttle Body Settings, 20 Vacuum lines and a few other things ALONG WITH THE WIRING TO EACH, has to ALL work in unison to create the beloved Yota'PUrrrrrr. When one or two or 15 THINGS seemingly go wrong at once, ...it can seem like a NIGHTMARE! hahaha. Yet, there's one constant.....IT WORKS ONE WAY, AND ASIDE FROM SOME REDNECK ALTERATIONS, ETC., TO GET HOME.......IT WILL ONLYYYYYYY WORK THAT WAY, ya know? haha.
I wish I had more than a pep talk, hahahahah. I have been keeping up, but I'm just learning to understand the way the ECU works in relation to the multiple things it controls...Yes, it's simple, mr. guru's, lol, but to me, I keep having to go over it a few times, so that I don't backtrack to something I've already ruled out. Heck, last night, I read the Fuel Section of my haynes along with trying to figure out why I'm not reading Oil Pressure properly...and I'm just getting it 'LOCKED IN' for good, know what I mean?
Could you print out your symptoms again, Alan? Exactly? Just do a 1., 2., 3., as it's cold to warm, etc. Many people can probably help a lot more than I and yet, they're all busy, just like us, so it's hard to contemplate reading back through everything. Just a thought. No insult intended, YOU'RE REALLY doing well at attacking this thing and doing the POE!
Mark
Ok, now, just remember, ....YOU OWN THIS INANIMATE THING, and I mean literally, yes, lol....but ALSO FIGURATIVELY! Just like a computer, it only knows what we program it to know. Every one of these things has a pattern in which it works, and IT HAS TO AT LEAST COME CLOSE, or .....NUH UH! lol. Trust me, I know what it's like, and I've been at mine since April in whatever spare time I can fish up. I could look at it as though I'm wasting time that I could be doing something else....but then, ....what about when I REALLY NEED THIS THING to be dependable, right?
Sorry, I'm NOT trying to patronize you, nor do I presume that you're not telling yourself everything I said, EVERY DAY, ....to keep from rolling it into traffic! hahaha.(just kidding, Roja! lol). Just a friendly reminder of the facts, right?....as well as one other, ...AT LEAST WE CAN DO MOST OF IT OURSELVES OR LEARN TO, EH? lol.
Sorry bout the trip.....If you've read my thread you know I drove 6 HOURS for NOTHINGGGGGGG! At least, ...that's what I thought, until I left the yard that sent me out there with GOODIES FOR CHEAP! Keep hunting, brudda, you'll find what you need. I'd offer my other ECU but, yeah, ...no worky too good! lol.
I'd like to find a "22re Troubleshooting ONLY manual and Step-by-Step Book for Dummies"....you know, one that says, "Ok, first, check this, then this, then this, then this,....WHAT?...THAT OTHER THIS ISN'T WORKING RIGHT?...this could be a problem, go BACK and double check at this(ECU)" or whatever, lol. It's ALL doable, ......but it can feel like you're chasing your tail, TRUST ME, I KNOW! also, ...THEY'RE OLD AS DIRT, and while they're 10 TIMES the vehicles, still, that some newer models of other makes are, ....CRAP GET'S OLD, looses connection, overheats, cracks, ...or just plum wears out, right?
It does operate, for the most part, in a simple way.(Thook, don't attack me if I get things out of order a lil, hahaha)... First the ignition switches on the Fuel pump, driving it through the rails to the CSI, through the FPR, then the coil/ignitor kick in to use that compression for da go go, lol, then the IACV stays open initially, taking over fuel-air initially, for a short time, then drops to closed loop as the coolant warms and sets off multiple sensors, all of which are regulated or sometimes even shut off by the ECU(like when you brake and your idle is over 1000....'fuel cut system' kicks in). Then the O2 sensor comes into play, relaying whether to lean or enrich fuel(This can TOTALLY screw with your head, hahaha). Within a minute, your Coil, Ignitor, CSI time switch, CSI, fuel Pump, FPR, VSV, BVSV, EGR, EGR Modulator, ECU, Coolant Temp sensor, Thermo Temp Time Switch, Charcoal Canister, IACV, TPS, Throttle Body Settings, 20 Vacuum lines and a few other things ALONG WITH THE WIRING TO EACH, has to ALL work in unison to create the beloved Yota'PUrrrrrr. When one or two or 15 THINGS seemingly go wrong at once, ...it can seem like a NIGHTMARE! hahaha. Yet, there's one constant.....IT WORKS ONE WAY, AND ASIDE FROM SOME REDNECK ALTERATIONS, ETC., TO GET HOME.......IT WILL ONLYYYYYYY WORK THAT WAY, ya know? haha.
I wish I had more than a pep talk, hahahahah. I have been keeping up, but I'm just learning to understand the way the ECU works in relation to the multiple things it controls...Yes, it's simple, mr. guru's, lol, but to me, I keep having to go over it a few times, so that I don't backtrack to something I've already ruled out. Heck, last night, I read the Fuel Section of my haynes along with trying to figure out why I'm not reading Oil Pressure properly...and I'm just getting it 'LOCKED IN' for good, know what I mean?
Could you print out your symptoms again, Alan? Exactly? Just do a 1., 2., 3., as it's cold to warm, etc. Many people can probably help a lot more than I and yet, they're all busy, just like us, so it's hard to contemplate reading back through everything. Just a thought. No insult intended, YOU'RE REALLY doing well at attacking this thing and doing the POE!
Mark
06-19-2010, 11:44 PM
#82
Registered User
The sigle wire could b the knock sensor as previousley said or oil pressure sender. As for the timing its hard to see by the angle of the picture but dot on the cam gear should be just to the left of center. It wolnt center. It will be to the left or right. LEFT is the way.
And as for the part thats hooked to the throttle linkage to slow the closeig of the throttle its not supposed to b plumbed into the air intake boot. make shure there are no tares in that boot or any leaks from the throttle body to MAF. It can b probemattic.
And as for the part thats hooked to the throttle linkage to slow the closeig of the throttle its not supposed to b plumbed into the air intake boot. make shure there are no tares in that boot or any leaks from the throttle body to MAF. It can b probemattic.
06-20-2010, 11:29 AM
#83
The sigle wire could b the knock sensor as previousley said or oil pressure sender. As for the timing its hard to see by the angle of the picture but dot on the cam gear should be just to the left of center. It wolnt center. It will be to the left or right. LEFT is the way.
And as for the part thats hooked to the throttle linkage to slow the closeig of the throttle its not supposed to b plumbed into the air intake boot. make shure there are no tares in that boot or any leaks from the throttle body to MAF. It can b probemattic.
And as for the part thats hooked to the throttle linkage to slow the closeig of the throttle its not supposed to b plumbed into the air intake boot. make shure there are no tares in that boot or any leaks from the throttle body to MAF. It can b probemattic.
PS> Sorry if you've fixed that already and I missed it, lol. I know Thook or someone mentioned that hole in your intake hose....'NO NO' 101, LOL.
Watching and taking notes!
Mark
06-20-2010, 11:33 AM
#84
PSS> The oil pressure should be easy to verify, unless he's somehow got it rigged. If you read my thread, you'll see I've just hopefully solved the issue I was having with LOW pressure on a new build....(Oil Sender vibrated and screwed itself out a full 1 and 1/4 turn!!!) That's a single wire and easy to verify. You either have oil pressure reading to it or you don't....but if you don't have the SR5 gauges, you'll only have a dummy light, and if that bulb is blown, ......so you see, you have to VERIFY that sender(just below the Oil Filter) is connected and pushing pulse. Look on my thread for the test for it, if you find it's connected properly....I know it's not likely your issue, but IT NEEDS to be working and properly connected.
06-21-2010, 08:59 AM
#85
Registered User
Thanks Mark. Motivation means a lot at this point. Read on..........
I don't know if I should be mad or not. I posted an add needing an ECU for 86 4Runner PN 89661-35070. I get a call saying he has one. I drive 2.5 hours round trip to find out he had PN 89661-3D070. He said that was the number (nicely). I said no and pulled my phone out and showed him the ad. I'm starting to steam bout now. He apologized and gave me $20 for gas and then gave me a vac manifold rail next to the valve cover. It's the wrong year, but I can make it work. He was very nice and tried to offer help with my trucks issues. Needless to say I'm not any closer to the remedy. I found reman ones for $229 @ solopcms.com with a 1 year warranty. I'm pretty confident it needs a ECU, but that is a lot of coins. I hate to gamble with a used one. The one I went after today was only $40. I feel better now since I vented. LOL
I don't know if I should be mad or not. I posted an add needing an ECU for 86 4Runner PN 89661-35070. I get a call saying he has one. I drive 2.5 hours round trip to find out he had PN 89661-3D070. He said that was the number (nicely). I said no and pulled my phone out and showed him the ad. I'm starting to steam bout now. He apologized and gave me $20 for gas and then gave me a vac manifold rail next to the valve cover. It's the wrong year, but I can make it work. He was very nice and tried to offer help with my trucks issues. Needless to say I'm not any closer to the remedy. I found reman ones for $229 @ solopcms.com with a 1 year warranty. I'm pretty confident it needs a ECU, but that is a lot of coins. I hate to gamble with a used one. The one I went after today was only $40. I feel better now since I vented. LOLAs long as the dashpot is allowing the throttle plate to return to starting position (very nearly closed) then it's not an issue in the context your troubleshooting. The throttle adjustment screw would be more of an issue than the dashpot, but even then it's only an issue with idle and not under throttle opening.
Sorry, Alan, I don't know what to tell you about the press. tester. I'm not familiar with using them at all. I've never had to. I've had to troubleshoot fuel delivery issues in the past, but I've always manage to diagnose in spite of not having one.
BTW, Mark, I'm not going to attack you. Not sure what would give you the impression I would. I mean, just because I'm possessed by Satan doesn't mean anything. <<<thook sticks another pin in the doll>>>>
BTW....again. Mark, I need a hair sample of yours. Can I get one relatively soon?
06-21-2010, 09:04 AM
#86
Registered User
x2 on the Dashpot....it's not going to cause most of your problems but it's important to have it adjusted right with your TPS. Also, that vacuum line is sucking in tons of crap I would think, right Thook? That's why the Dashpot has a filter on the end, which also actually acts to slow down the throttle depression.
Mark
Mark
06-21-2010, 09:33 AM
#87
Mark is not here, please leave a message......He's also recently shaved his head and fled an impending threat from somewhere in the Ozarks.............bubye! hahah.
Hey Thook, no, didn't assume that, just messin. On the Dashpot, yeah, I got mixed up. The plunger slows up the depression of the throttle w/a lil help from the filter thingymajig, hahaha. And, yes, the Throttle stop screw, if it's off, could mess with idle, ....but couldn't it also mess with the adjusting of the TPS? 4Crawler makes a strong point to BE SURE that is adjusted, first, before trying to set the TPS.....right?
Any news, Alan?
Hey Thook, no, didn't assume that, just messin. On the Dashpot, yeah, I got mixed up. The plunger slows up the depression of the throttle w/a lil help from the filter thingymajig, hahaha. And, yes, the Throttle stop screw, if it's off, could mess with idle, ....but couldn't it also mess with the adjusting of the TPS? 4Crawler makes a strong point to BE SURE that is adjusted, first, before trying to set the TPS.....right?
Any news, Alan?
06-21-2010, 11:10 AM
#88
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I took Fathers Day off and took the girls up to the mountains and swam in the rivers up there. We had a blast and after 12 hours being gone from the house chasing 2 kids around (10 & 7 yrs old) I crashed once I got home LOL.
I did win a ECU on evil bay. I'm taking a gamble.
I will read more tonight on the previous post. Gotta go get something done.
I did win a ECU on evil bay. I'm taking a gamble.
I will read more tonight on the previous post. Gotta go get something done.
06-21-2010, 08:01 PM
#89
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Hahaha,
Ok, now, just remember, ....YOU OWN THIS INANIMATE THING, and I mean literally, yes, lol....but ALSO FIGURATIVELY! Just like a computer, it only knows what we program it to know. Every one of these things has a pattern in which it works, and IT HAS TO AT LEAST COME CLOSE, or .....NUH UH! lol. Trust me, I know what it's like, and I've been at mine since April in whatever spare time I can fish up. I could look at it as though I'm wasting time that I could be doing something else....but then, ....what about when I REALLY NEED THIS THING to be dependable, right?
Amen brother!!
Sorry, I'm NOT trying to patronize you, nor do I presume that you're not telling yourself everything I said, EVERY DAY, ....to keep from rolling it into traffic! hahaha.(just kidding, Roja! lol). Just a friendly reminder of the facts, right?....as well as one other, ...AT LEAST WE CAN DO MOST OF IT OURSELVES OR LEARN TO, EH? lol.
Sorry bout the trip.....If you've read my thread you know I drove 6 HOURS for NOTHINGGGGGGG! At least, ...that's what I thought, until I left the yard that sent me out there with GOODIES FOR CHEAP! Keep hunting, brudda, you'll find what you need. I'd offer my other ECU but, yeah, ...no worky too good! lol.
I hope to get some time to read your complete build after this problem is solved.
I'd like to find a "22re Troubleshooting ONLY manual and Step-by-Step Book for Dummies"....you know, one that says, "Ok, first, check this, then this, then this, then this,....WHAT?...THAT OTHER THIS ISN'T WORKING RIGHT?...this could be a problem, go BACK and double check at this(ECU)" or whatever, lol. It's ALL doable, ......but it can feel like you're chasing your tail, TRUST ME, I KNOW! also, ...THEY'RE OLD AS DIRT, and while they're 10 TIMES the vehicles, still, that some newer models of other makes are, ....CRAP GET'S OLD, looses connection, overheats, cracks, ...or just plum wears out, right?
I need the book called "Troubleshooting 22RE's for Dummies" LOL
It does operate, for the most part, in a simple way.(Thook, don't attack me if I get things out of order a lil, hahaha)... First the ignition switches on the Fuel pump, driving it through the rails to the CSI, through the FPR, then the coil/ignitor kick in to use that compression for da go go, lol, then the IACV stays open initially, taking over fuel-air initially, for a short time, then drops to closed loop as the coolant warms and sets off multiple sensors, all of which are regulated or sometimes even shut off by the ECU(like when you brake and your idle is over 1000....'fuel cut system' kicks in). Then the O2 sensor comes into play, relaying whether to lean or enrich fuel(This can TOTALLY screw with your head, hahaha). Within a minute, your Coil, Ignitor, CSI time switch, CSI, fuel Pump, FPR, VSV, BVSV, EGR, EGR Modulator, ECU, Coolant Temp sensor, Thermo Temp Time Switch, Charcoal Canister, IACV, TPS, Throttle Body Settings, 20 Vacuum lines and a few other things ALONG WITH THE WIRING TO EACH, has to ALL work in unison to create the beloved Yota'PUrrrrrr. When one or two or 15 THINGS seemingly go wrong at once, ...it can seem like a NIGHTMARE! hahaha. Yet, there's one constant.....IT WORKS ONE WAY, AND ASIDE FROM SOME REDNECK ALTERATIONS, ETC., TO GET HOME.......IT WILL ONLYYYYYYY WORK THAT WAY, ya know? haha.
You just had to complicate things didn't ya. JK LMAO
I wish I had more than a pep talk, hahahahah. I have been keeping up, but I'm just learning to understand the way the ECU works in relation to the multiple things it controls...Yes, it's simple, mr. guru's, lol, but to me, I keep having to go over it a few times, so that I don't backtrack to something I've already ruled out. Heck, last night, I read the Fuel Section of my haynes along with trying to figure out why I'm not reading Oil Pressure properly...and I'm just getting it 'LOCKED IN' for good, know what I mean?
Could you print out your symptoms again, Alan? Exactly? Just do a 1., 2., 3., as it's cold to warm, etc. Many people can probably help a lot more than I and yet, they're all busy, just like us, so it's hard to contemplate reading back through everything. Just a thought. No insult intended, YOU'RE REALLY doing well at attacking this thing and doing the POE!
Once I get the new (used) ECU in and installed and it doesn't fix it I will put up the list again. It should be here in a couple days.
Mark
Ok, now, just remember, ....YOU OWN THIS INANIMATE THING, and I mean literally, yes, lol....but ALSO FIGURATIVELY! Just like a computer, it only knows what we program it to know. Every one of these things has a pattern in which it works, and IT HAS TO AT LEAST COME CLOSE, or .....NUH UH! lol. Trust me, I know what it's like, and I've been at mine since April in whatever spare time I can fish up. I could look at it as though I'm wasting time that I could be doing something else....but then, ....what about when I REALLY NEED THIS THING to be dependable, right?
Amen brother!!
Sorry, I'm NOT trying to patronize you, nor do I presume that you're not telling yourself everything I said, EVERY DAY, ....to keep from rolling it into traffic! hahaha.(just kidding, Roja! lol). Just a friendly reminder of the facts, right?....as well as one other, ...AT LEAST WE CAN DO MOST OF IT OURSELVES OR LEARN TO, EH? lol.
Sorry bout the trip.....If you've read my thread you know I drove 6 HOURS for NOTHINGGGGGGG! At least, ...that's what I thought, until I left the yard that sent me out there with GOODIES FOR CHEAP! Keep hunting, brudda, you'll find what you need. I'd offer my other ECU but, yeah, ...no worky too good! lol.
I hope to get some time to read your complete build after this problem is solved.
I'd like to find a "22re Troubleshooting ONLY manual and Step-by-Step Book for Dummies"....you know, one that says, "Ok, first, check this, then this, then this, then this,....WHAT?...THAT OTHER THIS ISN'T WORKING RIGHT?...this could be a problem, go BACK and double check at this(ECU)" or whatever, lol. It's ALL doable, ......but it can feel like you're chasing your tail, TRUST ME, I KNOW! also, ...THEY'RE OLD AS DIRT, and while they're 10 TIMES the vehicles, still, that some newer models of other makes are, ....CRAP GET'S OLD, looses connection, overheats, cracks, ...or just plum wears out, right?
I need the book called "Troubleshooting 22RE's for Dummies" LOL
It does operate, for the most part, in a simple way.(Thook, don't attack me if I get things out of order a lil, hahaha)... First the ignition switches on the Fuel pump, driving it through the rails to the CSI, through the FPR, then the coil/ignitor kick in to use that compression for da go go, lol, then the IACV stays open initially, taking over fuel-air initially, for a short time, then drops to closed loop as the coolant warms and sets off multiple sensors, all of which are regulated or sometimes even shut off by the ECU(like when you brake and your idle is over 1000....'fuel cut system' kicks in). Then the O2 sensor comes into play, relaying whether to lean or enrich fuel(This can TOTALLY screw with your head, hahaha). Within a minute, your Coil, Ignitor, CSI time switch, CSI, fuel Pump, FPR, VSV, BVSV, EGR, EGR Modulator, ECU, Coolant Temp sensor, Thermo Temp Time Switch, Charcoal Canister, IACV, TPS, Throttle Body Settings, 20 Vacuum lines and a few other things ALONG WITH THE WIRING TO EACH, has to ALL work in unison to create the beloved Yota'PUrrrrrr. When one or two or 15 THINGS seemingly go wrong at once, ...it can seem like a NIGHTMARE! hahaha. Yet, there's one constant.....IT WORKS ONE WAY, AND ASIDE FROM SOME REDNECK ALTERATIONS, ETC., TO GET HOME.......IT WILL ONLYYYYYYY WORK THAT WAY, ya know? haha.
You just had to complicate things didn't ya. JK LMAO
I wish I had more than a pep talk, hahahahah. I have been keeping up, but I'm just learning to understand the way the ECU works in relation to the multiple things it controls...Yes, it's simple, mr. guru's, lol, but to me, I keep having to go over it a few times, so that I don't backtrack to something I've already ruled out. Heck, last night, I read the Fuel Section of my haynes along with trying to figure out why I'm not reading Oil Pressure properly...and I'm just getting it 'LOCKED IN' for good, know what I mean?
Could you print out your symptoms again, Alan? Exactly? Just do a 1., 2., 3., as it's cold to warm, etc. Many people can probably help a lot more than I and yet, they're all busy, just like us, so it's hard to contemplate reading back through everything. Just a thought. No insult intended, YOU'RE REALLY doing well at attacking this thing and doing the POE!
Once I get the new (used) ECU in and installed and it doesn't fix it I will put up the list again. It should be here in a couple days.
Mark
The sigle wire could b the knock sensor as previousley said or oil pressure sender. As for the timing its hard to see by the angle of the picture but dot on the cam gear should be just to the left of center. It wolnt center. It will be to the left or right. LEFT is the way.
And as for the part thats hooked to the throttle linkage to slow the closeig of the throttle its not supposed to b plumbed into the air intake boot. make shure there are no tares in that boot or any leaks from the throttle body to MAF. It can b probemattic.
And as for the part thats hooked to the throttle linkage to slow the closeig of the throttle its not supposed to b plumbed into the air intake boot. make shure there are no tares in that boot or any leaks from the throttle body to MAF. It can b probemattic.
x2 on the Dashpot....it's not going to cause most of your problems but it's important to have it adjusted right with your TPS. Also, that vacuum line is sucking in tons of crap I would think, right Thook? That's why the Dashpot has a filter on the end, which also actually acts to slow down the throttle depression. Dime a dozen at yards, that filter is.
PS> Sorry if you've fixed that already and I missed it, lol. I know Thook or someone mentioned that hole in your intake hose....'NO NO' 101, LOL.
Watching and taking notes!
Mark
PS> Sorry if you've fixed that already and I missed it, lol. I know Thook or someone mentioned that hole in your intake hose....'NO NO' 101, LOL.
Watching and taking notes!
Mark
PSS> The oil pressure should be easy to verify, unless he's somehow got it rigged. If you read my thread, you'll see I've just hopefully solved the issue I was having with LOW pressure on a new build....(Oil Sender vibrated and screwed itself out a full 1 and 1/4 turn!!!) That's a single wire and easy to verify. You either have oil pressure reading to it or you don't....but if you don't have the SR5 gauges, you'll only have a dummy light, and if that bulb is blown, ......so you see, you have to VERIFY that sender(just below the Oil Filter) is connected and pushing pulse. Look on my thread for the test for it, if you find it's connected properly....I know it's not likely your issue, but IT NEEDS to be working and properly connected.
The important thing to note about the used ECU is what vehicle was it out of.(???) I'm not educated enough to say what part# would go with what vehicle, but if the ECU was out of vehicle within your year range (pre '89....auto or manual) then it should work. Gambling is tricky, but if you can get someone to test the ECU before selling it to you or allow you to test it yourself, then it's worth a shot. I bought a used ECU for my wife's '92 3vze, but had the fellow test it beforehand. And, he was selling from the YT marketplace. That helped a lot! Also, it's hard to be mad at someone who freakin' gives you gas money for your trouble...lol! That was cool!
As long as the dashpot is allowing the throttle plate to return to starting position (very nearly closed) then it's not an issue in the context your troubleshooting. The throttle adjustment screw would be more of an issue than the dashpot, but even then it's only an issue with idle and not under throttle opening.
Sorry, Alan, I don't know what to tell you about the press. tester. I'm not familiar with using them at all. I've never had to. I've had to troubleshoot fuel delivery issues in the past, but I've always manage to diagnose in spite of not having one.
Ah-ha! You may on to something there. I didn't notice or think of that. It is hard to tell by the pic. I'm going to have to verify this, though [Alan]. I'll be back later on it.
As long as the dashpot is allowing the throttle plate to return to starting position (very nearly closed) then it's not an issue in the context your troubleshooting. The throttle adjustment screw would be more of an issue than the dashpot, but even then it's only an issue with idle and not under throttle opening.
Sorry, Alan, I don't know what to tell you about the press. tester. I'm not familiar with using them at all. I've never had to. I've had to troubleshoot fuel delivery issues in the past, but I've always manage to diagnose in spite of not having one.
Ah-ha! You may on to something there. I didn't notice or think of that. It is hard to tell by the pic. I'm going to have to verify this, though [Alan]. I'll be back later on it.
The line on the end of the dashpot is not a vacuum line. No air is sucked through it. It only allows air to be passed through and into the filter......which is not really a filter. It's more for creating a little air pressure by slowing the release of air from the dashpot. I guess that's how it can be described....haha!
Thanks to all of the input. I'm glad I'm not by myself here.
06-21-2010, 08:33 PM
#90
Hmmmm, not sure about that ECU year swapping out 100%. Only reason I would even think that is because it's OBDII, and I'm pretty sure some of the components it reads are different ohms/temp settings/etc. ....but what the heck do I know? lol. I'm still having issues and I'm NOT mechanically inept...fairly well read, but GOOD LORD, it really does become like chasing ones tail, lol. I'm pretty sure I've got an IACV problem, and if the donor one doesn't work..... and I can verify mine doesn't bench test well at the dealer(know a guy who works there)...well, you get the jest.
Anyway, I bring that up because I thought we were having some of the same problems. One thing I KNOW isn't right with mine is that it NEVER has idled up when cold. I knew that had to be wrong, but for 140k miles, it's ran so well, I never bothered to address it, and then plum stopped thinking about it, hahaha. See, as far as I know in how this thing should work,....IACV opens and takes over initially for Fuel Air, keeping it up to 1100rpm or so until it's engine temp is up a lil, then down to 750. Mine always was 750, ....ALWAYS, lol...cold or hot. I think my CSI Time switch MAY NOT be doing it's job, either, because it's struggling a lil when cold(could just be the IACV)....and I have a spare, so I'll try that too. What really throws me is that lil "pup-puppupup" miss it has. It's VERY slight, and it doesn't misfire or backfire...but it's there, ya know? I CAN'T HAVE THAT! hahaha.
The oil pressure thing was something you were dealing with, right? Is that good? If not, please address that, Alan...it's such an easy check. Mine was leaking from the threads(1 and 1/4 turn out!!!)....snugged it up and VOILA!
Wasn't highjacking, just trying to see if you're having some similar FREAKY issues. You know, like mine, having the cold to warm idle thing in reverse!!!! lol. These rich/lean things can be tricky, ...but WE'LL GET IT, ALAN! Hope that ECU at least tells you whether yours is heading south.
Anyway, I bring that up because I thought we were having some of the same problems. One thing I KNOW isn't right with mine is that it NEVER has idled up when cold. I knew that had to be wrong, but for 140k miles, it's ran so well, I never bothered to address it, and then plum stopped thinking about it, hahaha. See, as far as I know in how this thing should work,....IACV opens and takes over initially for Fuel Air, keeping it up to 1100rpm or so until it's engine temp is up a lil, then down to 750. Mine always was 750, ....ALWAYS, lol...cold or hot. I think my CSI Time switch MAY NOT be doing it's job, either, because it's struggling a lil when cold(could just be the IACV)....and I have a spare, so I'll try that too. What really throws me is that lil "pup-puppupup" miss it has. It's VERY slight, and it doesn't misfire or backfire...but it's there, ya know? I CAN'T HAVE THAT! hahaha.
The oil pressure thing was something you were dealing with, right? Is that good? If not, please address that, Alan...it's such an easy check. Mine was leaking from the threads(1 and 1/4 turn out!!!)....snugged it up and VOILA!
Wasn't highjacking, just trying to see if you're having some similar FREAKY issues. You know, like mine, having the cold to warm idle thing in reverse!!!! lol. These rich/lean things can be tricky, ...but WE'LL GET IT, ALAN! Hope that ECU at least tells you whether yours is heading south.
06-22-2010, 06:46 PM
#91
Registered User
Nope........an ECU from anything later than '88 won't work. Given what sb5walker even said......the later injectors have a higher voltage. IOW, basically what you just said about components issuing signals and what not, Mark.
Oh, and Mark......you should read this on air induction. That will settle any doubts you have on your understanding of the idle air valve.....aka, auxiliary air valve on earlier models like ours:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h21.pdf
Oh, and Mark......you should read this on air induction. That will settle any doubts you have on your understanding of the idle air valve.....aka, auxiliary air valve on earlier models like ours:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h21.pdf
Last edited by thook; 06-22-2010 at 06:47 PM.
06-22-2010, 08:23 PM
#92
Thanks, Thook, ....
Very helpful! Just can't seem to figure out how far it's supposed to open. Mine is BARELY opening, maybe 1/8th". Sent you a PM, sorry Alan!
Sorry, as well, to hear that ECU wont likely work. I didn't think so but figured I'd let more exper. like Thook handle that "Yes" or "No". Any news?
Very helpful! Just can't seem to figure out how far it's supposed to open. Mine is BARELY opening, maybe 1/8th". Sent you a PM, sorry Alan!
Sorry, as well, to hear that ECU wont likely work. I didn't think so but figured I'd let more exper. like Thook handle that "Yes" or "No". Any news?
06-22-2010, 08:34 PM
#93
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Just a quick note to clear up a few things. I'm not sure if I read it right or not but just incase here it is.
I never considered using the ECU that guy had for the 94/95. That was the one the guy said I was looking for, but it was one digit off. The ECU that I won on eBay is the correct part number that I need. The gamble will be if it's any good or not.
As far as I know I'm not having any oil pressure issues yet. I think me mentioning the fuel pressure gauge I was using was actualy for testing trans/engine oil.
I'm doing this from my phone, so if I misread something please disreguard these comments..
On a side note everything I touch on this truck goes
wrong. I will post the other issues on my build hopefully tomorrow.
I never considered using the ECU that guy had for the 94/95. That was the one the guy said I was looking for, but it was one digit off. The ECU that I won on eBay is the correct part number that I need. The gamble will be if it's any good or not.
As far as I know I'm not having any oil pressure issues yet. I think me mentioning the fuel pressure gauge I was using was actualy for testing trans/engine oil.
I'm doing this from my phone, so if I misread something please disreguard these comments.
.On a side note everything I touch on this truck goes
wrong. I will post the other issues on my build hopefully tomorrow.
06-23-2010, 07:51 AM
#100
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Thanks!!
LMAO
Great news somewhat!! I got the ECU and couldn't wait to get it in. So far the running rich and acceleration problems are fixed. Like Mark says mine now has the "pup pup" sound plus it's popping in the exhaust. I haven't drove it yet. I have some loose ends to tie up before I drive it. Don't have much time right now to mess with it.
I just want to make a big shout out to all of those that have helped out so far. When I first signed up I had my doubts on the help i would receive here. Y'all proved me wrong!! I will still have some more questions on this issue and I hope to offer my expertise someday here when I get the body work going.
