Wildblue

I know I promised video of this engine but I have been too busy to make a proper vid. I will get it done at some point. I have a stretch of country road that I wanted to film a run on but need someone to do the shoot with me.

In the meantime I can say that I am very pleased with this engine... I had to powertime it after re-checking the cam timing marks three times. Notwithstanding what the engine builder says about setting the timing 10 degrees BTDC my view is that the head milling alters the geometries and the sweet zone is somewhere around 20 degree. I have about 2000 miles on it and it goes like Jack the Bear. I've done a ton of work on this rig and its basically a near new condition truck. This definately not the old 3. slow, she's now a 3. Go!

Wildblue

I'm sure that CHS Machine will be happy to crate one up for you and send it to Florida

Wildblue

Was able to finally troubleshoot it and determined that it was a faulty knock sensor... changed it out and no more code 52

Wildblue

Sorry it took so long to get you guys some vid of the 190 hp build. Here it is.

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid1204.photobucket.c om%2Falbums%2Fbb418%2FWildblue09%2FWildblueYoda.mp 4">

Wildblue

or this url

http://s1204.photobucket.com/albums/...ldblueYoda.mp4

Enjoy!

Wildblue

Beaniam

I'd like to see a dyno and some feedback on their hipo 22re

Wildblue

If you go back to the first page of this thread you will see a thumbnail dyno report of the original build... click on the thumbnail and you will see it in detail.

I have not run my CHS proline 190 hp on a dyno and do not plan to. Its got lots of juice and makes for a fun ride.

Wildblue

Wildblue

If we are the worrying kind (miscreating and then manifesting our fears) we will get a bad engine even from a good shop. I've been in quite a few journeyman shops over my life and I spent over three hours in the CHS Machine shop in Portland, and I have to say this is a well run shop. They have oldtimer owners and a nice mix of youth and experience on the floor.

Wildblue

Beaniam

went through it don't see any dyno info on the 22re

Wildblue

Don't know squat about the 22... suggest you contact CHS machine directly. Though getting to be a bit of a yota tech on the V-6 3.0.... after this build I know this rig inside out (rad to tailpipe) and can do anything required to keep it on the trail.

Wildblue

BMcEL

Finally! Haha that's awesome...good to hear the shop seems legit too. Did you go into detail with them on possible warranty claims?

Wildblue

I have no idea about the chs warrantee claim..... what I do know is if the engine is running cool, who really gives a ˟˟˟˟˟ about the warrantee... and if a shop wants to break your claim it has a hundred reasons to do so all built in.... the pont is I have a strong performer in this V6 3. go and I do not have any problems with the CHS build at this point. The 3.0 has a history of valve, head issues... and with over sized valves and cam lift its worked out.

Wildblue

BMcEL

Ok...I was just curious if you talked to them about it.

Wildblue

Have not talked with them about warrantee... they have 100 outs if that is their choice... clear about that.... strong longblock and that is fine by me.

phildelfino

sounds like a good review.

Wildblue

Would do it again in a mexican minute! 3. slow is total frustration.... 3. Go 190 hp is Ok.

Wildblue

phildelfino

that is great to hear.
what did you mean by "powertiming"? using timing light without the paperclip in place?

was this the only problem you had, getting the timing correct by experimenting?

did you have any other issues doing the swap? is so, please elaborate.
or was this just the average engine swap for you....

thanks for answering.

Wildblue

Power timing is done by ear. Forget the timing light use your ear. As you go from retarded to BTDC you will hear the engine sweeten its song as it gets into the power zone. If you go too far you will hear the engine change its idle song and it will ping under load. All good mechanics know how to do this but it is not hard to learn how to power time an engine.

The biggest mistake I made was taking the old engine into the machine shop when I picked up the new longblock. The old one went into the rear and the new one came out the front. I had to go back twice for oil pan nuts and side block water threaded plug when the coolant started leaking out near ready to start. Its not easy to tell if a engine block bolt hole will be plugged by an attachment bolt when they are bare, so its really important to have the new block and old block side by side and go over every hole transfering the studs from one to the other in its proper place.

Generally the only issues were of my own making from being tool rusty, there is a mindset to being a mechanic and I had long lost my mind. Common sense is to change out the injectors, all the hoses, many of these are form fit so these will have to come from the dealer. I have spent the last 25 years in the corporate space behind a desk and while I did lots of wrenching in my youth it was quite a chore for me to get back to "god through grease".

There are a lot of bolts and nuts in crampted spaces where mechanic finger dexterity is needed. By the end of the build I could turn a nut on in an impossible space on the first turn blind. Just picking the right size wrench up the first time saves you hours on the install. Fortunately Toyota has done a pretty good job and three or four wrenches do pretty much all the work. Borrow or rent a torque wrench a compressor and air tools are always nice.

Stud removal tools are nice but double nutting is often enought to get them out. I thought I'd save money and only change the knock sensor wire. I got burned and had to go back into the manifold level to replace the sensor itself when I could not clear the code 52 (likely over torqued on install). Breaking the engine from the trany is the way to go as you will likely have to take out all the stearing rods to clear the oil pan on the removal if you leave the trany connected. Be sure to change the water pump, rad and ALL hoses. There are two little formed oil cooler hoses get them from the dealer as well.

Take lots of pictures on the plenum and mark your hose connections. I had to pull the front end off twice after the install, trying to figure out the cam timing issues. Make double sure you are as dead on the marks as you can with #1 pistion TDC. Fighting that timing belt is much easier with the engine on the floor than in the engine compartment. Little things I would do different, mine has a brush guard on the front bumper and that should have been removed from the get go (back strained and stupid for not wanting to remove four bolts to get it out of the way).

Add a bottle of break-in oil to properly seat all the rings and bearings. Prelube the oil pump and spend the hour or two needed to properly clean all the parts especially inside the oil pan and gasket removal. Get yourself some good shop towels with the surgical gloves. You need a part washing tub with diesel or varsal brushes and even power wire brushes. Remove the hood and you will have better lighting to see things easier. Powerwashing before you start and after the engine removal is nice. The starter has a wheel well fender access panel and i only saw that after I fought getting it into position for an hour. A few leaks showed up, spraying up break part cleaner over the running engine will find all your vacuume leaks.

Engine cleanlyness is very important and use rags to plug any openings. Long extensions are handy with swivels for the exhaust pipe and bell housing bolts.... some awkward bolts are easily accessed through the wheelwells.

Some shops will charge you $2000 for the install. I did most of the work myself with a mech freind supervising at critical times. He did most of the block bolt ons and charged me $400 and I tipped him another $100.

I would not hesitate doing this engine swap again... I believe that the CHS Proline 3.0 engine longblock option is a better option than the 3.4 route. Yes it was apita at times but fun as well. If you get frustrated or tired this is when we make mistakes, take a break...

You will have a great knowledge foundation as a truck owner confident that you can fix any problem when you are done. That peace of mind has a lot of value as an owner. I did the CV shafts, front break rotors and pads, repacked the bearings, ball joints, and tie rod ends stabilizers etc. Buy the wedge tool ($12) for the taper shafts and you will save a lot of time and frustration.

With the additional horse power you could even go with 35's but would likely need a body lift to fit them in the wheel wells.

The seats were shot and after being quoted $250 dollars at the nearest wrecker I found a pair out of a wrecked cherokee in near new condition a bit down the road for ($19 / bucket seat) an 8 ft piece of 2" x 3/8's flat bar modified these for a nice fitting pair of bucket seats. Clearly it pays to do a bit of price shopping.

Purchasing a good body and frame for cheap from a dry desert location clean with zero rust and this 3.Go route will give you a strong rig with lots of power, likely good in my case, for another thirty years.

Have fun and good luck with your engine swap and if you have any questions or issues you need help with get a hold of me and I'd be glad to help you out. I found a lot of good advice from willing and supportive members on this board. Draw on that expereince and you can do it!

son_of_a_lc

Im ready interested in hearing about your MP G'S

Wildblue

It was poor before I worked out the power timing issues .... I have a heavy foot and my suspicion it is now running around 18 - 20 mpg... will test in the next while and report.