190 hp 3.0 V-6 from CHS Machine 210 Torq
07-08-2011, 11:26 AM
#42
The K&N filter was badly mounted with only one bolt to the fender. Over time vibration pulled the underside nut up through the fender liner and so it was basically flopping on the fender liner causing the knock sense to kick in Code. Stymied for cause for the Code 52 I decided to take a break on solving that problem and put it aside until I could do more research. So I fabricated a mounting bracket to better secure the filter and after clearing the ECU code, took it for another run down the road. The code light still came on just as I was coming back into the drive way but the code was settling down and was much less frequent. The ECU seems to be shopping around for a new normal operational range.... would like to examine the computer code line by line to understand the ECU design logic.
First, what's the underlying issue? Now this part I am nearly 100% sure of. And it's not the ECU. It's the knock sensor wire. Namely the connections. I fixed my 20+ year old sensor wire after having the same thing happen after my rebuild. I just removed it and cleaned the connectors/terminals on it, the sensor, and the engine wiring harness. Plugged 'er back in, bolted 'er back up, haven't had a code 52 since.
Second, I don't know how you've got the engine wiring harness mounted. But if the KS wire is being jiggled at all by the air intake hose, then that solves that part of the puzzle.
If you want to know just about everything there is to know about Toyota electronics, engine/transmission management, and/or braking systems(that can't be found in the FSM) see this site. http://autoshop101.com/
Last edited by MudHippy; 07-08-2011 at 11:30 AM.
07-08-2011, 04:35 PM
#43
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Thank you mudhippy.... I put in a new k sensor wire on the reinstall and made sure it was a snug fit to the sensor. I now have clear engine code fast continuous blinking status.... cleaning out the Idaho potatoes... ordered some CV shafts and ball joints.... with my break in oil change due and this next box of parts intalled I'm going to get this puppy wet. Hey what's with these stiff yota window cranks? What's the fix on that one?
Kindest regards,
Wildblue
1992 4x4 ExtCab V-6 with a 190 Hp 3.Go!
Kindest regards,
Wildblue
1992 4x4 ExtCab V-6 with a 190 Hp 3.Go!
Last edited by Wildblue; 07-08-2011 at 04:50 PM.
07-08-2011, 05:13 PM
#44
Good question. It probably involves a bunch of hard to find parts that need replaced though. That's surely the case on mine atleast. My driver's side window is so whacked out of alignment from worn/loose/missing parts, I can hardly get the thing up or down without one hand cranking and the other pushing/pulling on the window. Good thing for the quarter glass window...and NO A/C!
The other side ain't so bad, as a matter of fact it works almost like new(pretty smooth and easy to crank).
Last edited by MudHippy; 07-08-2011 at 06:07 PM.
07-10-2011, 07:18 PM
#45
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I'm going to put a cap on my yota and have no need for the roll bar.... has four light mounts and is in good condition.... anybody interested in a roll bar? Make me an offer.
07-11-2011, 07:55 AM
#46
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WOW, I wonder how well this would work in my 4runner , my H.G. took a crap on me the other week, and I am thinking bout swapping the motor for a remanned motor.
09-01-2011, 05:30 PM
#50
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my head gaskets went on me 2 weeks ago or so.
i am interested in this also. looking for the video and report after break in oil has been changed.
also, has anyone checked out oregon engine rebuilders for their hi-po 3.0L build? they don't really mention hp gains over stock on the website.
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i am interested in this also. looking for the video and report after break in oil has been changed.
also, has anyone checked out oregon engine rebuilders for their hi-po 3.0L build? they don't really mention hp gains over stock on the website.
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09-01-2011, 05:46 PM
#51
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Every thread involving 22re that has come from Oregon engine rebuilders had pretty bad feedback that I've come across. Enough for my to x them off my list of companies I'd want to deal with anyways.
09-01-2011, 07:44 PM
#52
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09-02-2011, 08:13 AM
#54
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wanted to know cuz CHS Machine (in portland, or.) has some bad comments on pirate.
09-02-2011, 08:28 AM
#55
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CHS Machine
2627 SE Holgate
Portland, OR 97202
Oregon Engine Rebuilders A.K.A. OER
20740 SE Firwood Road
Sandy, OR 97055
2627 SE Holgate
Portland, OR 97202
Oregon Engine Rebuilders A.K.A. OER
20740 SE Firwood Road
Sandy, OR 97055
09-02-2011, 08:31 AM
#56
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I'm considering one from CHS but I really want to see how Wildblue's turns out. Or anyone else that's installed one for that matter. If I find out that Oregon Engine isn't going to just claim abuse if there's a warranty claim, I may consider that route.
09-02-2011, 08:39 AM
#58
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I have yet to see OER honor their "lifetime" warranty, they always seem to find a way to "void" it's warranty. So one can say driving it out of your garage is abusing it.
09-02-2011, 08:52 AM
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For one, they don't even know what a 3VZ goes in. Two, their reputation alone concerns me. Three, how the hell would they know if you 'abused' it? Sounds to me like an easy way to dismiss warranty claims.
I think I made my decision on them lol.
I think I made my decision on them lol.
