Check with your local starter/alternator specialists. Yesterday I dropped my cooked alternator out of my '93 pickup (22RE) off at Hollywood Starter & Alternator here in Fort Lauderdale after confirming they could do a high output conversion on it. He said it'd take a day to get the parts and he could have it back to me the next afternoon. I went ahead and had it rebuilt as well with new parts that came with the rebuild kit. Sure enough, picked it up this afternoon and it's sitting in the seat awaiting install all freshened up. He said the parts were rated for 140 amps but they usually put out 130~135 amps, rarely did he see anything over 137 out of the conversions he's done. Anyway I'm happy I was able to get it done in just a day. A few days ago I was stranded and had to have a buddy bring me a battery just so I could get home! Hopefully I'll be good for a while now, he said it had a 1 year warranty on it. $80 to rebuild/freshen and $80 for the upgrade parts...so with tax, about $170 later I got a healthy juice box ready to pump some amps.

 

Just make sure to upgrade the wiring from the alternator to the fuse box and from the fuse box to the battery, if not you run the risk of melting the stock wire because your more than doubleing the out put of the alternator. You need to upgrade to at least 6 gauge wire.

 

id use 4ga or 2ga

 

I was reading on pirate the other day about high out put alternators and a guy was saying because of the high amperage and our pulley size you actually don't even pull enough amps at idle to charge the battery. So you end up draining your battery during idle. That is actually the problem I have now with my 130 amp alternator. Also the head lights dim while the truck is idle. Just something you might want to check out when you install yours.

O ya I used 4 gauge wire on the grounds and charge wire.

 

You can get them wound for high amps at idle which is a MUCH smarter option.

 

Do you know of any companies that do it? I would switch out the one I have now and get one that works properly if it is available.

 

I was going to install a high out put alternator in my 86 4Runner a few months ago, but i decided not to, there was just no need for it. What i did was install a 95 amp alternator instead. Its 35 amps over the stock alternator (new alternator is 95 amps) and for me its more than enough. And the best part was it was a direct bolt in and plug and play. Now if i had a lot of off road lights or a high power stereo then i would have used a higher out put.

 

myyota Were did you get the alternator? Does it turn enough power at idle to keep everything running?

 

I bought the alternator on ebay, the company that rebuilds them is located in San Diego, CA. The new alternator works great at idle, with the head lights, stereo, and cb on i havn`t noticed any dimming of the lights.

 

I just got a winch in the mail, MIm wondering if my stock 87 22r alternator will be enough to work the winch when im at idle

 

Your stock alternator is only 60 amps, it will probably be fine as long as you have everything else turned off while winching. But upgrading your alternator might be something you might consider doing in the future

 

look up the "big 3" upgrade. usually used more in car audio applications, its still very helpful in getting everything out of those tiny alts.

 

^^ x2 on the big 3 mod, I used 4g wire. make sure you buy some end terminals and have a torch/solder ready to go, it's super easy

I think some guys have done a GM alternator mod, seems much cheaper to retrofit in a different stock HO alt...

NWOR wants $450 for theirs, not sure I'm willing to pay that much for more juice... they did say though that their 110 amp one was recommended for the 95.5-04 guys and it actually puts out closer to 130 on a lot of them...

 

with the availiability of bolton brackets a GM alt swap IMO is the best option

 

BINGO PirateMcgee

the GM alt.s take a LITTLE modding to get to fit, but they have much better cooling.

i've heard of the stock toyota alt's having cooling problems when they get rewound for more amps

 

Anybody try the MR2 alternator?

 

I've gotta Loadboss 140 amp, irc...plug and play.

 

I ran my T Maxx 9000 with stack alt for 2 years. You need to be careful, even now with the large GM alt I have to watch it. T

The best way I have heard it explained is battery is tank the winch is pumping juice out and the alt is pumping juice in. The Winch is pulling what 400amps and the alt produces 60amps stock now I am at 100amp (yes different numbers at idle vrs higher RPM but for simplicity sake). So what is going out is still going out faster that what is pumping in. So if you don't watch you voltmeter you can totally kill your battery and shut you engine off by the winch draw. The last pull I did was probably 75 ft. Pulled myself off the obsticle and kept winch running as I crawled up the rest of hill over another obsticle I knew I'd need a winch assist over. Well even with the RPMs up (I have Marlins ultimate crawler setup) the charge indicator came on towards the top of the hill.

So really think of needing duty cycles, like a welder. A dual battery setup with deep cycle batteries is about the best setup if you are going to be winching alot. IMAO

 

Search here for "Boyle Future Tech" in CA.

 

anyone got a link to the GM alt bracket for the V6 or 22R.