NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

In the process of de smogging it. I un-pluged all the wires to the carb, they (LCE) are shipping my new 32/36 weber with intake manifold as we speak. I un-plugged the ecu already. Funny, after I un pluged all the carb wires it ran better! Still a running truck just in case it starts snowing.
All un-plugged and runs fine except the carb is shot, won't idle when it's cold, the chock is all messed up thanks to PO

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

BTW, why would the g52 be different? Did you look at my pictures? Does the sender look the same?
So what's in your engine you're building any thing special? Looks nice, and clean...........

gsp4life

If/when you get the harness and connectors for the trans (might as well just run a couple wires and make your own connectors at this point) you can run the wires anywhere you want up to the cluster.​​​​ I'd just run them right up the firewall, and then over to a grommet near the gauge cluster. I might be wrong, but I believe each sensor just has a + and - wire. Might even be grounded through the threading, I haven't investigated that much down there yet, cause mine still work. Lol.

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

Well. after all i'm finding when i start to tear it all down i will probably end up re-wiring the whole thing. No biggie, i enjoy doing this. Probably going to change out the speedo cluster to a SR5 cluster with tach and other gauges. Looks nicer then the one i have Once i take off the carb and mainfold then i can see if there any any loose wires laying around. Plan on stripping the harnesses and getting rid of all the smog wires and then re-taping the harness. There are a lot of wires! And vacuum hoses.But, that will be spring time, just getting all the parts that i can find now so I'll be ready
Putting an oven in my garage for powder coating, it's all in the plan

gsp4life

I'm not sure if there are harness differences, but there could be, I've never worked on a g52-equipped truck. The senders look the same as mine from what I recall, but I'll check tomorrow.

My 22re is a fairly plain build, I just spent a lot of time getting everything real clean. It suits the stock 4Runner well. I was going for durability over power. It's bored .040" over (1mm) and has .030" oversized crank and rod bearings, so unfortunately this is it's last rebuild. Standard head and cam from Engnbldr, though I might swap in a 261 crawler cam during the next timing chain interval for a little more low-end grunt. It's been great though, I never knew an '85 could pull so hard and rev easily to 5k rpm the way it does now.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Bring that 5-10 degree weather over to michigan, or better yet those mid 30s lol. We've been hitting -10 to -15 at night for lows and daily highs between 0 and 15.

Also should point out, general rule of thumb, the EGR system if working correctly is more "efficient" as a working unit vs blocked off. My sense of efficient is miles travels per gallon of fuel. I know some people look at engine efficiency purely as how much hp they can get out of x size of engine. More extreme example is a Mazda rotatory engine, they have HUGE power efficiency, but get terrible mpg for the engine and car size. However it's your truck so no trying to change your mind or anything. Kind of wondering how the last owner messed up the carb's choke though. There is a cold idle adjustment on the OEM carb, maybe someone tampered with it? Also the AARP (aux accelerator pump) is vacuum based and is fairly common to leak excess fuel into the carb making for a low idle and rich condition. I personally blocked it off on my 86 2wd carb'ed truck since it was leaking and never had a problem with it stumbling under hard jabs at the gas peddle.

The way I've looked at it is the 22r/22re engine is basically a tractor engine, low hp with high torque, so by design it's a low rpm engine and isn't really suited for racing or "going fast". It makes up for that with the bottom end grunt that most other 4 cyl engines don't have, atleast in the gas/petrol world.

As for the G52 vs W56 (or W55, W46 etc) I'm pretty sure they are all about the same thing, just the G series is lighter built compared to the W series. First number is the number of gears the trans has, not sure what the second number is, maybe a sort of generation like their engine codes? I've read but never tested that the G52 and W56 are direct swaps, so I'd assume all wire connections are likely the same too.

For the wiring, I'm pretty much in the dark for 89 or older pickups, but for 90+ well here's the wire diagrams. Bottom wire on both diagrams just goes to frame ground (white/black wire). Diagrams are for a 1990 Pickup.

(4x4 wiring MT)


https://gyazo.com/0d1265a011aaa5e4d307e267ebce1f87

(Backup Lights)

https://gyazo.com/af26c26f608d769026e1c16e611a580c

gsp4life

atcfixer, those are the daily high temps that I've seen on my outdoor thermometer. The lows have been near or under 0° every night for 2 weeks. Unsure how much my weather dial factors in wind chill because it's on a partially enclosed porch. I think Northern Ohio is just the 1-5° warmer version of Michigan right now, so don't be too jealous of us here. On the bright side, today might hit 25°! Are you getting this toasty warming front over your way?

About EGR, I think people get caught up in the joy of deleting something and keeping soot out of the intake plenum. I even blocked it myself at one point but I didn't notice much difference besides worse mpg, so I cleaned all the parts to the best of my ability and got it working right for the cost of new vac lines. I learned a side benefit is that it lowers the temps at the exhaust valves slightly. You either get a grimy intake plenum or a hotter exhaust, I think every system in an engine is some sort of trade-off.

I also try not too lecture about it too much, cause people can do what they want with their own stuff, but that's the opinion I arrived at after learning how it worked.

On the other hand, if you want a completely de-smogged 22r, go for it. You can always put the EGR stuff back in later because none of it needs computer input to function.

gsp4life

Well, I just checked and it's 2° ​​​​​(Google says -5° with wind chill) so I was wrong. Tomorrow should go up into the 20's. Sigh.

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

Man, both you guys are making me feel guilty about the weather. Here i am complaining (not really) about the 50s in Utah.
As for the wiring, it's going to be a re-wire for sure.
I'm rebuilding this truck because 1ST, I love Toyota"s 2ND because I need a 4wd for when it snows. 3Rd gas mileage is not really a concern, not a daily driver but I should be able to get between 18-20 with a tuned weber (I Hope)
Not going off road with it (well maybe)
As it is now after removing all the wires to carb and various other smog components including the ecu the truck starts instantly I mean 1 time around and it's going then i just have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it going for a few minutes. The new Weber will have a manual choke.
Lights, well "before" i removed anything i only had the oil light, parking brake, and the seat belt lights come on with key turned on but not started. Never had the battery charge light come on (maybe the bulb is dead) Also, keep in mind that it is a 20R and not a 22R When the PO did the engine swap he took everything apart and looks like didn't know where to put everything back
It's all good............I really enjoy my little truck (I call him Mr, Truck) My DD is a 02 Tacoma 2wd TRD ( His name is Truckie) And he's my baby! Just turned 167k I bought him on my birthday
Does anyone know if the SR5 cluster has a 4wd light? Before last week i didn't even know that this clusters were "plug & play" There's guy on Ebay asking $200 for a completely rebuilt cluster, a bit much trying to snag one a little cheaper but the rebuilt one you know will work
Thanks for all the help
Keep it coming..........

gsp4life

There no feature that the sr5 wouldn't have that the base gauge does, so I'm confident it would have a 4wd light. Yeah, the charge light could be burned out, a few of mine are starting to dim a little.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

The SR5 cluster is not 100% plug and play, you also have to replace the oil sensor with a sender. Instead of an idiot light as people call them, it's an actual gauge. Most trucks from my understanding are factory wired for the tach, but not all of them, so keep that in mind too.

EDIT:
Oh also the SR5 cluster you need will have to be from a 4x4 to have the 4x4 light. A 2wd with a tach (if any where made) wouldn't have the 4x4 light, but might be possible it has the light spot for the light. Pretty sure 4x4 MT is the most common though.

Also with the cost of a new carb etc and rewiring, why not pickup a 22re full intake and ecu. From my understanding the EFI "upgrade" is a bolt on swap for the 22r engine. I'm not 100% sure, but the celica got a 22re before the pickups in like 82, so I think the EFI intake might bolt up to the 20r head? The two 22r/22re trucks I've had, the 22re defo had a quicker response to the throttle. The carb'ed truck might have had a bit more bottom end grunt but hard to tell, maybe it's a bit on the rich side. Unless you're good with tuning a carb, I'd probably suggest the EFI route. My dad has huge chunk of equipment to measure exhaust gases etc for carb'ed engines. It's probably from the 60s-70s to aid mechanics doing proper tune ups with carb adjustments. He's looking to fix it up since he lately got into porting and modding chain saws and he noticed the vacuum pump hose was shot and guessing the hoses are probably the only reason it doesn't work.

Fun fact, I've accidentally spun tires taking off more in my 86 2wd 22r pickup than my 96 4x4 3.4L Tacoma lol. Something just wasn't right, all the auto trans 3.4L trucks ran great and broke tires loose easy, but all were rolled over/broken frame trucks.

For the "idiot lights" I think all should power on with key on and is a form of self test for the ecu/system. Not sure how it works on a carb'ed truck though. Logic is if the check engine light doesn't come on for a EFI truck, the bulb, wiring, fuse, or ECU is bad (not powering on).

As for the weather, it's 5 atm, high of 8 and low of 0. We get the heat wave tomorrow lol, 26 high and some snow. Great lakes really effects our weather around here. I have so much work planned todo when it warms up kind of weird getting a heat wave like this, most of the time when it gets cold it stays cold here. I haven't seen above freezing temps for probably a month or so.

Here's the forecast for fun =).

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for your weather
53 here, not bragging................really Originaly from NY so I don't miss that weather at all,
Ok, on the cluster replacement, i knew about the oil sender but I think the one in my truck is the sender for the gauge. It's a big round pot, not like the temp sender which is skinny. Don't know if there's a way to make sur. Funny i have the Toyota service manual for my truck and it doesn't go into a lot of detail on it. I've read the thread on the sr5 swap, and i do have to run the wire for the tach, next to the coil i have the plug that they mention green with 1 wire not attached to anything. That's for the tach
What I did not know was that the sr5 cluster has to be from a 4wd truck in order to have the 4wd light. Wow, that changes things. I thought that they were all wired up the sam and depending on what stuff you had that's the lights they put it, more research needed it seems.
I really gave it a lot of thought going with a EFI vs carb. Everything I read about it was good but NOBODY was able to tell me if the intake would bolt to my head, so i just went with the carb and new manifold
I have to mention that my truck was a steel............. it's a cal. truck, NO RUST at all, I mean none! the frame is as solid as when it came off the line. It's been in Utah for 4 years so what it has on it is surface rust, it's mostly dirt and caked on mud.
As far as the ecu, I have tracked 21 wires going into it and 0 coming out! so, It's only fuction was the smog stuff.
Well, just finished putting my stove in, so now I'll be ready to do my powder coating, yea.........Can't wait till the spring when I can start tearing it down. Got a garage (30x40) full of all my wood machines but a small space for storing all the parts i'm gathering up.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

I got my stove installed last year, but it's for burning wood and making heat for the house =).

It might be possible for the 2wd version to have the 4x4 light spot, not sure if the light filter thing will have the 4x4 spot or not though. I know the automatic clusters are commonly different, toyota likes to put the shift indication in the cluster on the newer trucks 89+, not super sure on the 88 and older trucks, never owned an automatic one.

The Tach wire might be wired.

Also the intake question, the EFI intake from a 22r will NOT bolt up from what I've read. The 20R head is interchangeable with the OLD 22r block 83 and older I think (no laser bevel on the block, look up 22r block id). The older block was a longer stroke, used domed pistons, double roller timing chain etc and for the pickup application only came as carb'ed. The newer heads have dual bolt patterns, carb and efi, old ones only have carb from my understanding. The celica 22re engine from the 81-83ish era would be the key item to research if it's intake would bolt up to the 20r head or not.

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=atcfixer;52386752]I got my stove installed last year, but it's for burning wood and making heat for the house =).

LOL>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Now that was funny
Thanks for that

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Not a prob, btw wood heat is so much better and cheaper (atleast for me) than LP lol. During this cold spell, I guess there's people that's burning up their LP tanks in under a month, pretty nuts. I ran my LP furnace a couple nights that I got lazy with the wood stove, and it went down a lot. I started the session with 70% and not long ago it was 50%. I use the LP for cook stove and hot water and "backup" heat. Wood stove has been keeping the house 72-85 depending if I over load it too much lol.

NYHumpinUtah

iTrader: (1)

I've been thinking about a wood stove in my garage to get it so where I can work in there during the winter but I don't think a wood burning stove in a "wood shop" is a good idea. They just want to much to run a natural gas line out there. I'll just take the winter off