yah I went with the heavy up front and heavy shocks all the way around. As far as the rear springs, I ordered the one that they had, no firmness selection avail. And I will just go with the u-bolts from them, it still is under $850 from there and $160 for the Grease-able shackles from All-Pro. And I will say one thing, All-Pro is very good, I placed the order about 3 hours ago and within an hour after placing the order online, they had called and said they were out of the side plates for the shackles, and would not bill me until they shipped them.

Has anyone heard much good about those Aussie lockers? And how easy are they to put in? would it be good even for a daily driver, remember budget.

 

Have you verifed that All-Pro's shackles and bushings will work with the OME springs?

 

i bought the shackles from downey off road they are only an inch over stock so they will fit these springs but wont give that big ugly shackle lift.

as for the aussies it just depends on how much your willing to tolerate. ive never driven with them on road but i have buddies who do in their dd's. i run a welded rear end on one of my trucks its no problem on road

 

any other suggestions as far as the rear end goes? and the front end also, but going to worry with one at a time! Thanks guys, and MERRY CHRISTMAS!

 

Hey guys, hope Christmas went well for all of you. Just wondering does anyone know any other bumper places out there? want to make sure i have covered my options. Also, I got the OME lift ordered with shackles and such. Will get pics posted as soon as it comes in and gets posted. Also, does anyone know good places to order new tires and wheels for the thing? Thanks guys for all of the help so far!

 

I got my bumper from here: http://www.kenmtn.com/html/wincher.asp
They took a long time and it was spendy but its hand built and i'm very satisfied with the product that was delivered

Here it is on my rig.

 

Are you asking about rear bumpers? The only non-tube rear bumper that I could find is made by Kennesaw Mountain Accessories. They get very mixed reviews, are a bit slow, but they did a good job on my bumper.

 

Not worried about the tube on the rear as they have more protection around the corners. I would really like to know what a good locker or posi is good to go on a daily driver and will hold up great? What about the TrueTrac or the Aussie Lockers? The dern E-lockers are too expensive for me, although would be great for a daily driver, but its a thought and where is a good palce to order them from and cost of installation or installing yourself?

 

I have a detroit locker in the rear of my truck and its not even noticeable on road except for a clang every once in a while.

 

I've done a lot of reading on Aussies because i have one of my own that's waiting for installation day. From what I understand they DO what a locker does... keep the tires locked. An open diff allows the wheels to turn at different speeds for corenring. An Aussie is a bit mroe strict. While making a turn, the outside wheel is allowed to rotate FASTER but the inside wheel remains locked to the rear axle. So, say you're mudding, it will work as a locker because both wheels only have the options of spinning or spinning faster. NOT slower.

THe only cons that I've read is you can't mob around a tight corner at 30 mph anymore. The locker starts to knock and you can spin out... but the same thing goes with a stock positraction rear end. Spinning donuts is easier accomplished when both wheels spin and this frightening event isn't applied to JUST Aussie. ANy locker can result in it. So don't be discouraged, just don't drive like an a$$hole

By the way, differential breather extensions. You can order them from MarlinCrawler. I'm just gonna make my own. THe stock breathers are a fitting with a "breather cap" thats supposed to guard solids (doesn't do well with water). I'm just gonn pop it off, clamp some vacuum tubing, and run it into the bed/engine bay with an inline fuel filter on the end.

 

The e-lockers come in either 4.10, 4.30 or 4.56 ratio. They retail for over $1200 but I got mine for around $900 from a dealer. Inchworm.com sells them for about that price as well. I wanted to regear to 4.56 and my first thought was full Detroit rear locker and Detroit True-trac in front. I then realized that I could buy e-lockers front and rear in 4.56 for about the same price (assuming I would have to pay someone to set up the new ring and pinions in my diffs). The installation isn't too difficult and there are lots of threads on the internet about the mechanical aspects. Let me know if you need some links.

Except a selectable locker like an ARB or TRD e-locker....which is why I went with the e-lockers. I'm not knocking automatic lockers as many people use them with great success; I just decided it wasn't for me.

 

ok thanks guys, i think im going to hold off right now but I do liek the though of just buying the fully assembled rears and just putting them in instead of paying the outrageous labor charges guys around here charge! I also have a buddy that will take the old ones of my hands at anytime, he is in no hurry, and he is gonna give me a pretty penny for them!
Here is one thing im going to do just wondering if anyone has any input towards it? Im going to completely strip the interior and put herculiner or sumthing of that nature down and then put new matting under the old carpet as it isnt in that bad of shape, jsut wondering on the thoughts of doing this for vibration noises and such, as well as keeping it from rusting, as well as the wheel wells?

 

Well... yeah. I probably should have elaborated. Any engaged lockers can cause spin out. Selectables too, but only during operation.

 

I got the OME lift on and put All-pro shackles in the rear with factories up front. Gave it about 5 inches of total lift all the way around. I have my 8000lbs mile marker in my kitchen floor, and waiting on my bumper from Addicted Offroad. It rides GREAT! well worth the money!

Got the Pro Comp Drag link installed and the steering seems a little loose and then it will catch, and ideas? May be the tires?

Ok here is the key, havent ordered tires yet, Wondering if anyone has any suggestions? Any one have a good place where i can get wheel/tire combos decently priced?

And any other ideas as far as the truck goes? I will not be locking the rear anytime soon, but eventually.


Thanks people! Try to get some pics eventually, but forgot to take any before!

 

On the dropped drag links, what you need to do is crank down the adjuster caps as tight as you can get them. Reason is that those drag link ends have springs inside and unlike the stock unit, they have the springs set up so that turning one direction, you are compressing both springs (gives loose, mushy steering feel) and turning the other way to get solid steering since there are no springs being compressed:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml#PhaseI

Or better yet, convert to crossover steering and get rid of the stock setup. It just does not work well once you lift the front end more than 2" or so.

 

ok the only problem with that, is that the lift I have is only about 2" over stock, can you still do hy-steer with that?