That's some great info. Very much appreciated! Ive gotten both assemblies off and will clean them like you said. Still might try the vinegar to get some rust out then I may seal with something like red kote I suppose. Illnsee if I can find that filter as well. Maybe on ebay?

 

Thanks osv...You are really knowledgeable in some areas that I am weak in. You and a few others that I see when answering others questions, I look into those threads and have learned alot that way. You put out alot of great info.

osv brought up a good point. There are other ways of cleaning a tank and I have some listed in my 2nd post on my 88 Runner build below on the first page. I tend to get a one track mind and forget the other options. The way I clean my tanks is a little slower. I take junk trucks and turn them into a daily driver and allow a year or two to get them completed so I do not get into any hurry. I use 6 gallons of vinegar and let it sit in the bottom, a couple of days later, I will turn it on its side and then on the ends. I am a cheapscape and get the most out of it that I can. On a fuel injected truck, I figure about $60 to restore a tank. $20 for Red Kote, $25 for a fuel pump off of ebay, and $15ish for vinegar. Carbed trucks are a little cheaper just because of the no fuel pump.

I suggest syphoning or pouring gas out of the tank, flush with water for 10 minutes or so and then getting as much water out as possible and then adding 6 gallons of vinegar. After a week or when I feel it is clean, I pout out the vinegar and flush with a hose. I then use a non sparking hair dryer and dry the tank. Then coat it with Red Kote.

To save the top of the tank when it is in the truck, during the summer I put the right rear tire on a ramp and get under there with a garden hose and a hand brush and clean the mud off of the top of the tank. It can collect alot of debri up there and rot out the top of the tank and the fuel supply unit. The tank is like a saddle for all the dirt up there and as close as the tank sits to the frame, it one of the areas that starts the frame rot.

Most dont save the tanks when they part a truck, but I do and the tank, fuel float and fuel supply assemblies can be hard to come by or expensive.

The filter on ebay is listed as filter for a diesel but is the same filter. With the ten dollar shipping it is just as cheap at the dealer.
>>>>>>>>>>>> http://www.ebay.com/sch/6000/i.html?...ssories&_rdc=1

 

Tommorrow I will post a picture of an electric pump that I have attached to a frame. The metal lines are rusted and I need to start soaking it to get the fuel assembly seperated from the line. This is an 86 frame and the pump is in bad shape. Not all tanks get this way, but due to the humidity and such in my area, the moisture just accumilates in the tank. I had to scrap the tank that was on the truck as it had quarter sized rust holes in the top of the tank from dirt sitting on it.

 

I tell you I'm a little torn in what to do. I've figured out that it will cost me about $75 to restore my tank, not including gaskets,or counting time which I have little of now days. Or I could buy one off of eBay $125 free shipping. Decisions decisions...

 

Well I've decided . I'm gonna buy a new tank $125 bucks. Now all I have to do is clean / clear sending unit. What is something I can soak it in to clear lines?...then maybe a seal I can put on it so it won't rust again?

 

A new tank is still available on ebay last time I looked. I seen you posted a question on cleaning the sending unit. I use a drill bit and twist it with my fingers and get what I can and then start soaking in vinegar or PB Blaster and keep working it fine wire and an air hose. It can take some time and paitence but you will get it while waiting for your new tank.

I will be the bearer of more bad news. If your fuel pickup assembly is clogged, chances are your return line is clogged as well. That is where I fill the line with Marvel Mystery Oil or PB Blaster and start letting it soak and using an air hose to get it clear.

I really dont know what you could coat the unit with to keep it from corroding again. Maybe painitng it, but the fuel might eat the paint off. After you get your fuel system back in shape, maybe every 6 months run some HEET thru the system to keep the moisture out of the tank. If you drive it daily, it should be good for a long time.

On any build thread I have started, I have always posted about the fuel system to try and make it known how bad these systems can get, depending on where you live. Humidity is terrible on cars and trucks but something that cant be helped. Your is carburator, but on your fuel injected autos, keep above the 1/4 mark as fuel is a coolant to the fuel pumps.

I didnt get up in time to get pictures of the electric pump I have on a frame but it is bad. Maybe I will post it tomorrow. On your fuel lines in the truck. I suggest using a gear bottle top as a funnel and fill it with Marvel mystery Oil and then when it is clear, blow a lot of air thru it and try and get all of the rust out of it as well. You will be surprised at the gunk in it as well, but when you are done, your fuel system will be in great shape.

 

That sounds good to me! Where do you stat the mystery oil? At the fuel pump?

 

About a foot infront of the firewall, on the passenger fender is where the supply and return lines come from the frame on a 22r, if I recall right. I use the gear oil funnel and start pouring the Marvel Mystery Oil into the funnel until it is full. Let it soak a few days and add more as it goes down or keep adding more as needed.

Dont take an air hose to it right away. All you will do is compact the rust. Letting it soak and works way thru the crud will soften it up. After a few days you can take an air hose and blow it out.

When air is flowing thru the lines, I then take the air hose back to the tank side and blow it forward. After doing that and if you are not in any hurry, I try and fill the line again as much as possible and let soak a few more days and repeat the same steps.

Once you get air flowing, you could go ahead and reassemble your fuel system and the return fuel will flush it out for you. It will be so diluted that the filter will catch what little there is.

 

Here is another guy with a similar problem. You are not alone. I directed him to this thread.>>>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-tank-275357/

 

Did everything you said, working like a charm! Waiting on gas tank now and soaking float assembly and sending unit In vinegar. Wonder if I put por 15 sealer on them, maybe prevent rust from coming back? These thing are rusty!

 

Glad to hear it worked out for you. Turned into a bigger job then what you had planned, but now you know your fuel system is in great shape. I coat my screws/bolts with wheel bearing grease when installing the float and fuel supply assembly. Then I put a dab on top of the bolts to try and help keep them protected from the elements.

Make sure you get the float in the correct way. It should rise to the front of the tank, and I think the bolt holes are offset so that you cant put it in incorrectly, just double check that.

I had to replace my float assembly 2 years after I cleaned my tank. It still looked as good as the day I put it in. I keep my tanks full for several reasons. One is to keep the moist air out of the tank. Another is if you ever get stuck in a traffic jam, bad weather and get off the road, at least you have heat and another reason is having kids, I have had to make hospital emergency runs before having to get gas in a time like that could be detrimental. Trying to help you realize other reasons for a full tank. (Also it takes as much to keep the top half full as the bottom half. ( an old man told me that while taking me to the gas station when I ran out as a kid)

I have my preference on gas brands. I dont fill up when the fuel station is filling their tanks. They are stirring up the sediments in their tanks. I try to wait several hours after they fill theirs. 2 stations I use fill their tanks at midnite.

About every 6 months I run Heet thru my tank to get the moisture out and then Seafoam to clean the injectors/carb jets. Then I run my tank low. Only because I know my tank is clean. If I had a new to me truck I wouldnt do that.

I am sure your other cars are fuel injected. I dont go below 1/4th tank as fuel keeps your fuel pump cool. On carbs you can go lower.

Your old tank, you might could sell on Craigslist to get some of your expenses back. I clean mine and store them up side down and they look great still. I will be restoring a 1st gen truck tank from a guy parting out a rust bucket 79 next week. It will eventually be needed somewhere.

I think gas would eat up the POR 15. I would coat the outside of the tank or paint it. Once a year or so, get under there and clean the top of the tank as trucks are bad about kicking dirt on top and I have had to scrap a few tanks just because of the rust holes on top of a tank. Keeping your tank full should keep rust off of your float assembly.

 

There is a plastic fuel filter, sitting just outside of the tank, next to the frame. Now is a good time to replace it as well. I know if I evr have anothr carbed truck. Moving the filter to the engine compartment is something I have considered.

Just below the gas cap door hinge, there is "V" notch that is a drain hole. I have seen it get clogged. I just use a piece of wire to get the debri out of it or use a high pressure car wash to get it cleared out as well.

 

Was just about to ask you that as well. There is also an inline filter of some sort under the hood. Is that a fuel filter under the carb?

 

Thanks for all your help by the way! Your advice gives me confidence in my abilities haha. Happy Thanksgiving!

 

I am not aware of a filter under the hood. Can you get a picture of it? I am not as strong on the 22r but have worked on a few, but there may or may not be one under there. I could probably tell if it was Toyota or not.

There are all kinds on here from some who never knew how to change oil to professionals. I seen the very beginner learn alot on here. We all got to start somewhere.

These trucks are easy and cheap to build. Alot of repairs can be done on the cheap. They are old,neglected and abused, but with a little effort they can be brought back to nice, dependable drivers. Several will say you need a Factory Service Manual. I have one and the manual I use the most is Haynes. Dont get a Chilton. It isnt very good. It will step you thru quite a bit. Things like the gas tank wont be in there but that is where Yotatech will help on several things.

Another thing I do is type in "22re Youtube" "Toyota Youtube" into Google and find things that way that I am not sure of. Several build threads have a ton of inforamtion in them as well. When I first joined, I probably read about every one on here. I tried to make my 88 Runner thread to have alot of the common fixes on these. It is listed on the first page where to find them in the link in my siganture. I did alot of those fixes for less then $25 or free. Just took a little time.

If you plan on keeping your truck for long, start a build thread on it and one day it will be done and you will get alot of enjoyment on reading of where you were at and what the truck was like when you got it. I was kind of embarrassed when I posted a couple of my builds, but I wanted a challenge and know I will get them where I want them to be. I have some bad ones and all but one I could of finished but someone else wanted it and it was a long bed. I like short beds. You will get all kinds of help on here.

If you stay stock and have the patience to wait until the right part comes along for the price you can afford, you can have the truck you want. I started with a Stanley set from Wal Mart and a handful of wrenches and worked my up from there. Once you get started, one thing leads to another and you will be a pro in no time. Keep it as a hobby and go at a slow steady pace and you will see why there are so many other build threads on here as well.

Have a great Thanksgiving.

 

Filter

 

Another look...shiney inline filter of some sort attached to carb

 

Any idea?

 

I looked at a 22r truck and it comes straight from the inner fender and goes to the fuel pump. The filter you are showing is what someone has added. Not a bad idea as it does offer more protection. It is not what came factory. Does yours have a filter at the tank? They may have installed that one to make it easier to change instead of the one at the tank.

 

Yep it does have the one at the frame. That's what I figured, someone had added one.