Rear brake distributor valve relocation
#1
Rear brake distributor valve relocation
I want to relocate or eliminate the brake distribution valve on the frame of my 85 long bed. This is because I want to weld a pipe across the rear frame and use it for a new rear shock mount to run the rear shocks triangulated. And of course the distributing valve (besides being 25 years old and messed) is in the way. I know the distributing valves purpose is to distribute more or less braking power to and from the rear when under load, so i'm not sure if i can eliminate it without having problems. So i'm leaning more toward relocating it safely some wheres else. Any body got any input or experience doing this?
#3
Some folks have permanently disabled it by cutting the rod that connects to the rear axle housing off near the valve body(LSPV). And then tied the piece of the rod connected to the LSPV up so that it's fully open(it closes to distribute less brake fluid pressure to the rear brakes when the rod moves down in relation to the valve body)at all times. If you were to do that, then relocation isn't going to matter too much(provided you can stretch the lines far enough to move it where you want, could replace a line or two too if you had to)because there's no longer a connection to the rear axle. Of course that also means that the rear brakes will have more of a tendency to lock up on ya. But hearing the input from the folks that have done so, that doesn't seem to be a huge deal. They've (nearly)all said that braking was still pretty acceptable, and didn't have any real regrets from doing that mod.
I'll see if I can find a thread that has more info about it for ya. Hold on a minute...
O.k., found a bunch of threads on the LSPV. So far it's actually about 50/50 on what you should do. Some folks say you should get a manual proportioning valve(MPV) and install it instead, or with the modified LSPV. Some say it doesn't matter if you eliminate it. Like I said before I can't seem to find anybody saying that it's caused major troubles for them by eliminating it.
Here's a thread with some testimonials from those who've eliminated it..
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-valve-181341/
4Crawler has a nifty way to mod it into essentially a manually adjustable type valve.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...ortioningValve
Here's one guys opinion on it:
But that's not a popular opinion, even in the thread it's from.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/rear-brakes-180037/
That's about as much as I feel like searching for now. That should give you enough ideas to make your decision a little easier.
If not search the term LSPV and see what else you can find on it. Quite a bit to look through.
Good luck!
I'll see if I can find a thread that has more info about it for ya. Hold on a minute...
O.k., found a bunch of threads on the LSPV. So far it's actually about 50/50 on what you should do. Some folks say you should get a manual proportioning valve(MPV) and install it instead, or with the modified LSPV. Some say it doesn't matter if you eliminate it. Like I said before I can't seem to find anybody saying that it's caused major troubles for them by eliminating it.
Here's a thread with some testimonials from those who've eliminated it..
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-valve-181341/
4Crawler has a nifty way to mod it into essentially a manually adjustable type valve.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...ortioningValve
Here's one guys opinion on it:
I didnt cut mine but i tied it up to the bed, and if your not careful and need to stop without notice your rear end will lock up and could cause quite a bit of trouble. I have come in to some corners too hot, hit the brakes and 180'd in the middle of the road, Ye Be warned
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/rear-brakes-180037/
That's about as much as I feel like searching for now. That should give you enough ideas to make your decision a little easier.
If not search the term LSPV and see what else you can find on it. Quite a bit to look through.
Good luck!
Last edited by MudHippy; Nov 22, 2010 at 07:38 PM.
#4
If you said it's messed up, you might consider looking at a manual proportioning valve from somewhere like Summit. I went with the kit from Front Range Offroad Fab because they supply a short hardline that adapts from the the Toy's metric to the prop valve's standard.
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