rdrttoy

Has anyone ever modified their rear break bias controler? I have found that when you are going down a steep hill and and the driver side of your axle droops down and then your rear brakes stop working. What i have found is that you can modify it to get better braking. I just cut that nifty rod that goes to your axle and wire tied the bias controler up so the rear brakes work better. Its one thing im glad i did.

tc

Search on Load Sensing Proportioning Valve or LSPV.

The RIGHT way to do it is cut all of it out and replace it with a "regular" proportioning valve, like this one:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

rdrttoy

well it works just fine now but if i run into a problem in the future than i will remove it but it was like a 2 minute fix.

becaron

The purpose of that valve is to change the braking when there is weight in the back of the truck.

Be careful if you cut yours and put weight in the back.

swapped89

I didnt cut mine but i tied it up to the bed, and if your not careful and need to stop without notice your rear end will lock up and could cause quite a bit of trouble. I have come in to some corners too hot, hit the brakes and 180'd in the middle of the road, Ye Be warned

Justinlhc

But if you have ABS in the rear it wouldn't lock up, right?

Justinlhc

On my 4Runner I have 2 inlets and one outlet going down to the axle and then it splits off to each rear brake. That specific valve wouldn't work. I've been searching trying to figure out why there are 2 lines running to it. I'm guessing one is for ABS.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

You have two lines to the rear brakes. One is the feed, one is the return as these run through the LSPV. When you get rid of the LSPV you don't need a return line, just a feed as the adjust is now in the manual PV.

There is tons of this information online under "rear disc swap" "manual proportioning valve" etc. Search.

85excab

or use one of these

tc

x2. It also provides true isolation between the front and rear in case you were to ever bust a brakeline. With the LSPV, you break one line and all your brakes are gone (don't ask how I know!)

Justinlhc

Thanks for the info. I've been wanting to get rid of that entire ugly setup back there. The guy who did my exhaust bent my rod pretty bad to make room for the pipe, which shouldn't have been running thru where my spare tire should have been mounted in the first place.

Justinlhc

I just ordered a manual valve. Now I just need to figure out what fittings/adapters I'm going to need to make it work the the M10x1.0 fittings. My head is spinning. I guess I'll wait and find out when it gets here.

86toylet

Summit sells the 1/8 to m10 adapters .

Justinlhc

I ordered some lastnight along with a flare tool. I always get confused on thread sizes. Is 1/8" the same or close to a 3an? I'll have to see what fittings my PV comes with and what threads it takes I guess. I wish everybody would use the same damn thread size for everything.

tc

... or FROR sells a kit with little "conversion" lines already made up

Justinlhc

Strange, my LSPV is completely removed and bypassed right now and if I really stomp on the brakes the rears will lock up a bit, but even when I was trying to make the ass end slide out it just wouldn't happen. Maybe on dirt, but not pavement.