All,
A couple of weeks ago I posted a thread about my clutch failing and I was able finally get the tranny dropped Tuesday. This afternoon I planned to remove the pilot bushing along with the rear main seal, however murphy had differrnt plans. To start, I rented a tool from Autozone to pull the bushing which consisted of a puller with two fingers that fit into the bushing and by tightening a nut its supposed to pull the bushing. The bushing never budged and the fingers kept slipping thru. I took the fingers to a grinder and file to set a flat to better grab the bushing, no luck. I soaked it with some pb blaster and will give it a try once more tomorrow.
Now for the rear main seal. I removed the 6 bolts and the two nuts, pryed it loose to break the rtv seal and tried to wiggle it out. That didn't work so I finally pryed out the seal because it seemed like the seal was binding against the crank, that didn't work either. The plate moves side to side but will not come up and out so I'm puzzled as what could be the issue. I tried using a small punch on the lower studs to try and push it up but it seems there is something behind the plate that is preventing the plate from moving... Any help appreciated!
1989 3.0L V6.

Thanks.

 

For pilot bearing, try bread trick. Grab 2 or 3 slices of bread, tear bread into small wads, shove into hole in bearing. As you fill up cavity, use bolt about same size as hole, hammer bread into cavity. Keep putting more bread and hammering. I promise that bearing will start coming out.

 

I seen a youtube video where someone used that method, I was bit skeptical but i'll give it a try.

Thanks.

 

The bread trick can work. I've also seen people use pieces of wet paper or common grease. I myself have used the grease and it did work, if a bit messy. Took about 6 "repacks" before the bearing came out. The bread & paper methods are cleaner.

As for the rear main seal retainer, there are usually two bolts coming up from the bottom, that thread into the retainer. You should be able to see these on the oil pan side. They thread upwards thru holes in the oil pan flange.
They could also be threaded studs, that thread into the retainer & have 2 nuts on the oil pan side. It's not easy to tell from the parts pics:
https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sho...rimLevel=18380
Part # 90116-06119 - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/...116-06119.html
If it doesn't have the threaded bolts it could be the newer style of retainer, that just have alignment pins instead.

Just clean it off & have a look. I'm sure you'll see what you have.

 

Thanks. The rear main seal retainer is the latter one with the threaded studs. It'll rock side to side as if there is something behind it but it will not come up and out...

d.

 

Here's one I found on ebay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM-...wAAOSw03lY5t8v)

When looking at the rear, it appears the studs protrude thru the retainer. Could those be whats binding?

 

Here's a video I took yesterday that I just posted to youtube.

 

Monday bump!
At this point I may need to consider dropping the oil pan. Its certainly not something I want to do, but to get the retainer back and sealed properly it may be my only option.

d.

 

Earlier this afternoon I was finally able to drop the oil pan and baffle so I could remove the rear main seal retainer plate. Actually it wasn't until I dropped the oil baffle that the retainer finally cleared and remove it. It appears the studs are threaded into the retainer. My question is, should I try to remove the studs and use two new bolts? In the event i should ever have to redo the rear main seal I'd hate to go thru everything once again... You'll notice the studs and threads are a bit boogered up from trying to remove it. Here are a couple of pics:


threads boogered up

inside view of retainer

 

Did this earlier today and it worked great! Only took the heel of the loaf to drive out the bearing.

thanks!

 

Using a small pair of vise-grips I removed the studs fairly easy. Went to the local ACE and picked two M6x12x1.0 bolts and lock washers which I'll use to cinch it down.

d.

 

Sounds like a good fix to me.