84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 02:16 PM
  #81  
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Ok, blown head gasket, drain the oil from the pan, there is water in there too. Get fresh oil & filter for the near final steps.
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 08:34 AM
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Can anyone link me to a picture of where the 6mm allen bolt is that holds the exhaust manifold in? Looked inside thero housing and nothing so it must be outside of it but we need a picture cuz we can't find it!! LOLOL Good grief!! Thanks friends...............
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 09:21 AM
  #83  
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this thread is like watching a train wreck... it's so bad that i don't want to look at it, but i just can't help myself :-)
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 10:15 AM
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NEVERMIND on the link.......we were following another thread on YotaTech that said the allen bolt was IN the thermo housing unit and that was a lie!! I found a website (http://www.22reperformance.com/22RE_...ware_Kits.html) that showed the bolt and it's not INSIDE the thermo housing. He found it so is removing it so he can remove the intake manifold.
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 10:45 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by osv
this thread is like watching a train wreck... it's so bad that i don't want to look at it, but i just can't help myself :-)
I'm sorry OSV. Believe me, we wish it was all over or that we wake up in the morning and it was all a dream. If I'm doing anything wrong, let me know and I'll try to do better. This is an amazing site and I'm hoping we get this resolved very, very soon. I'm so sorry if I am causing anyone problems. Thank you for the wake up call.
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 11:08 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by coloradolady
I'm sorry OSV. Believe me, we wish it was all over or that we wake up in the morning and it was all a dream.
i know what you mean, i've been there on my rig more than once

in your case, that anti-freeze and gray oily matter indicates that the head might need to come off again...

i replaced the head on my last motor with a brand new engbldr head, immediately had a bunch of oil/water mixing, so i just put the motor in the corner of the garage and got a low-mileage used motor off of craigslist... i had to take the passenger seat out of my miata, put the motor in there, and drive it 40 miles back to my garage.

there is a lot more to the story than that, but all i'm going to say is hang in there!
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 11:54 AM
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UPDATE!!
This was taking out of the intake manifold and as you can see, it's like missing the rest of it on the left side. Don't know if it's been broken off or bent and torn off. I'll show you the whole gasket in the next picture PLUS....he learned something new!!!


Last edited by coloradolady; Jun 11, 2015 at 11:56 AM.
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 11:57 AM
  #88  
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This is the whole thing......see the left side is missing.....as in above picture.......
???

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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 12:00 PM
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Now here is some facts. When he removed the thingy where the gasket was, oil gushed out of the middle two holes!!! Like you see in the gasket where there is the line of holes on the right side, then go towards the left and it would have been where the third hole and the one above it are. Oil went everywhere!! (Jeans, socks, shoes, included!!)

Ok, another thing, the #1 and #2 cylinders are full of antifreeze!!!???

What is going on!!??? Any ideas?
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 12:06 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by osv
i know what you mean, i've been there on my rig more than once

in your case, that anti-freeze and gray oily matter indicates that the head might need to come off again...

i replaced the head on my last motor with a brand new engbldr head, immediately had a bunch of oil/water mixing, so i just put the motor in the corner of the garage and got a low-mileage used motor off of craigslist... i had to take the passenger seat out of my miata, put the motor in there, and drive it 40 miles back to my garage.

there is a lot more to the story than that, but all i'm going to say is hang in there!
Oh no!!! I'm glad you were able to get things back to running condition. We have been dealing with this mess for months. I need my Barbie Jeep back and he needs to get his truck back running. He is so close to either blowing it up or driving it off a cliff!! Thank you for the encouragement. We really need that right now. He is so close to giving up and I am the opposite. I'm not going to let a pile of metal get the best of me. I'd take the whole truck apart before I'd give up. So I guess together we are just doing the best we can. He's injured so it makes climbing and crawling and lifting very difficult. So seriously, thank you for your kind words.
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 12:31 PM
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Ok, found a hairline crack #3 cylinder. Does NOT go clear thru the head!!! Only can feel it on the inside...........

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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 12:32 PM
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This is just a picture of the whole head.......

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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 12:37 PM
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Ok, this section, where his hands are, these were sitting in the antifreeze when the head was on the block. The block under these had antifreeze in them......Hard to explain......Sorry


Last edited by coloradolady; Jun 13, 2015 at 12:04 PM.
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 12:43 PM
  #94  
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Since you said there was not a good machine shop close by, then You will need to buy a new and/or rebuilt head. If you want better performance, now would be a good time to get a better cam. The single timing chain should not be a problem, but the double roller timing chain is less likely to stretch over time. That would be a decent up grade too. The only limit to what you can do now is budget concerns. But you definitely will have to have another head.
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 12:44 PM
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The grey sludge is a mix of coolant and oil.

could be a mix-mash of headgasket and intake manifold gasket leaks. For sure intake manifold if you're finding coolant and oil inside the runners.

My suggestion would be to use as many studs on the intake manifold as possible to ensure proper gasket alignment. You might want to make sure the intake manifold is flat. You can do this at home with a straight edge or have a machine shop do it. Barnyard manifold surfacing is easy, effective and free. If the manifold is warped a little find a FLAT, SMOOTH shop-floor and with even pressure on the mating surface rub the manifold in a figure 8 pattern until it's flat.

Don't try this on a warped head. Intake and exhaust manifolds only.

The cracked head needs to be replaced. There could be a member here with a servicable head if you ask around. Used ones shouldn't be very expensive. A machine shop may even have a completely rebuilt one on shelf depending on your location.

I have a head for a 22R I'd have given you, unfortunately it isn't compatible with your engine as it's a 1982 model.

Last edited by jimbyjimb; Jun 11, 2015 at 12:49 PM.
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 01:14 PM
  #96  
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ok, this is #4 and if you look at the 7 o'clock position you can see a slight gap......

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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 01:17 PM
  #97  
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This is the one next to it....facing you, it's the second one over from the left....

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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 01:23 PM
  #98  
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Sticking a feeler gauge in the gap....a 0.18 fits tight but does go down inside.......

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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 02:00 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by coloradolady
Sticking a feeler gauge in the gap....a 0.18 fits tight but does go down inside.......

Bent, or stuck, valve.
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Old Jun 11, 2015 | 04:48 PM
  #100  
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It looks like that head is toast. I have a head sitting and my machinist has one too. Shipping is the killer. Mine needs new exhaust valves since they are burnt. Is there a budget? I know the head on my truck was close to a grand, but that had a lot of work done to it. You just need something that works.
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