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Re Clutch Safety Switch.
I do not think the 84 has a clutch safety switch.
A neutral safety switch maybe.... If auto.
Originally Posted by L5wolvesf
... I put the new F-link on and the truck fired up no problem.
... I still don’t know if I solved the intermittent no start problem. Maybe it was just the link, maybe not ... But I would really like to know what the problem was.
Yes, no electric pump (22R). So would my symptoms, no start (intermittently), but without any clicks or other noise (except my exasperation) could have been the relay thing OR would that have been a symptom of the F-link being not all there?
The problem where the starter solenoid does not actuate OR does not actuate ENERGITICALLY is caused by power loss over wiring and contacts (because there is no starter relay, or starter relay is wired wrong) has always been in the 1984 to 1988 22R/22RE's, as I explained on my thread. It MAY be masked by light solenoid return spring tension, smoother mechanical operation of solenoid, healthy battery, etc.
Yes, the corrosion and possibly strands on the F Link would have contributed to the problem to the point the power that ends up at starter solenoid is not enough. However, the absence of the start relay is still a problem. Your ignition switch contacts are still subject to the high current (I measured 12 amps on mine) each time you start.
Are your legs and/or lungs burning? Making snow angels can be tiring.
Yep. Everything is more tiring up there - LOL! I miss my truck. I would have driven from So Cal to Seattle, but gas expense would have been more than my airfare.
Re Clutch Safety Switch.
I do not think the 84 has a clutch safety switch.
A neutral safety switch maybe.... If auto.
The problem where the starter solenoid does not actuate OR does not actuate ENERGITICALLY is caused by power loss over wiring and contacts (because there is no starter relay, or starter relay is wired wrong) has always been in the 1984 to 1988 22R/22RE's, as I explained on my thread. It MAY be masked by light solenoid return spring tension, smoother mechanical operation of solenoid, healthy battery, etc.
Yes, the corrosion and possibly strands on the F Link would have contributed to the problem to the point the power that ends up at starter solenoid is not enough. However, the absence of the start relay is still a problem. Your ignition switch contacts are still subject to the high current (I measured 12 amps on mine) each time you start.
Yep. Everything is more tiring up there - LOL! I miss my truck. I would have driven from So Cal to Seattle, but gas expense would have been more than my airfare.
I checked the Haynes Manual wiring diagram - no Clutch Safety Switch. But it does show a starter relay. So
Given what you've said I will be completing the starter relay install.
So Cal to Seattle . . . and back is a lot of seat time too.
Doesn't sound likely but... did you find the starter relay? On the 22R-E with manual transmission, it would be here:
If you have that relay, no need to install a new one. Just double-check wiring according to picture below. This would confirm if wiring flaw applies to your model. IF so, simply rewire with a couple of snips, solder/crimp, and wire to a fuse, then battery - as shown on same picture...
Doesn't sound likely but... did you find the starter relay? On the 22R-E with manual transmission, it would be here:
If you have that relay, no need to install a new one. Just double-check wiring according to picture below. This would confirm if wiring flaw applies to your model. IF so, simply rewire with a couple of snips, solder/crimp, and wire to a fuse, then battery - as shown on same picture...
No I don't have starter a relay 22R (no e). My engine bay looks kinda neked
No I don't have starter a relay 22R (no e). My engine bay looks kinda neked.
That's what I thought, too. Haynes lied to you. LOL!
Is that relay gonna be your added starter relay?
I also suggest you sand down the fender ground point, and the ring terminals to bare metal (like gen1runner did below) for good electrical contact. Stock fender/body ground points rely on the female thread on body, male thread on screws, and eventually the surface UNDER the head of the screw to make contact with ring terminal. ALL of those get oxidized. Best to have bare, shiny metal of fender directly on bare, shiny metal of ring terminal. Coat parts with 100% silicone di-electric grease before assembling. Contacting surfaces will squeeze grease out of the way and the rest of the parts will remain coated and protected from corrosion.
That's what I thought, too. Haynes lied to you. LOL!
Is that relay gonna be your added starter relay?
I also suggest you sand down the fender ground point, and the ring terminals to bare metal (like gen1runner did below) for good electrical contact. Stock fender/body ground points rely on the female thread on body, male thread on screws, and eventually the surface UNDER the head of the screw to make contact with ring terminal. ALL of those get oxidized. Best to have bare, shiny metal of fender directly on bare, shiny metal of ring terminal. Coat parts with 100% silicone di-electric grease before assembling. Contacting surfaces will squeeze grease out of the way and the rest of the parts will remain coated and protected from corrosion.
Haynes lied to you. Their info is usually good but the wiring diagram just says "for early models" so it is way off.
Is that relay gonna be your added starter relay? Yes, it was the only one in town on a holiday weekend. I would prefer to us a Toyota relay but I couldn't find a part number. I'd really like to set it up as if it came with the truck (wiring and relay).
I preped the connection surfaces and ran a tap through the threaded hole and went to spray on the di-electric grease but the can was old and wouldn't spray. So I have a trip to O'Reilly in my future.
A slight update, I found the part number for the Toyota Starter Relay for an 85 - 89 P/u & 4Runner with a 22R or 22RE - 28300-35010.
But, they are discontinued.
UPDATE: After fixing the corroded fusible link connections the truck would start up as it should . . . for about 3 days. Then as I was headed out to a client I stopped for a fine French meal (Jacques en Le Box) and no start. But this time I was getting the proverbial solenoid clicks – just no turn over. When I got the truck home later I wired in the cheapo O’Reilly relay et voila – back to the way it should be.
I also got a hold of a Toyota starter relay and the wiring via atcfixer, so once I wrangle up some time I’ll wire that in and it should look mostly like it came from the factory.
05-30-2017, 05:44 PM
