I bougth a 85 pickup and it has the Push-Pull Steering box and I want to convert it to the IFS steering box. The truck is bone stock what would I have to buy or change to get this to work. Thanks

 

IFS box and hysteer set up

 

Ok Thanks

 

You'll need the mount to bolt the IFS box to your frame also. Trail Gear and Marlin both carry them.

 

If I am not mistaken there is more to it than just a simple bolt on. I believe there is welding and cutting regarding the upgrade, correct?

John

 

I put high steer/ifs box/power steering on my '85 2 days ago. It's safest and easiest to buy a mounting kit from trail gear, NOT the 20 dollar one, the 40 doller one. You drill holes for the bolts depending on where you want the box, and when it's all bolted up you weld the plate to the frame. I mounted my box all the way forward so I could swap my rears to the front. I can post up some pics when I get them if you need. or pm me.

 

Sorry for the hijack question here, however if doing the IFS steering box, no matter what springs you use is it always best to mount the box as far forward as possible? Doesn't this effect the steering shaft from the firewall (the additional forward set IFS box?)

John

 

Yes it can, either extend the shaft or add a spacer if needed:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...eringExtension

Also will need at least 3" of lift to clear the steering parts.

 

unless you use a flat pittman arm, and/or a drop hanger in the front. Flat pittmans are better in my opinion anyways . . . and yes the steering column will need to be lengthened. You can drill out the little pins holding it in place and pound it out in a vise. (It telescopes out)

 

Ok, so I guess I am understanding you that if you use a Drop Hanger and/or a flat pitman arm you will *NOT* need to put the IFS box as far forward on the frame as possible? I didn't order the flat pitman arm when I got my X-Over steering. TG recommended a drop pitman arm.

If I am mistaken, please correct me....

Thanks!
John

 

Rule #1 when mounting the steering box: Push it as far forward as you can get it.

Why? Pitman arm-tie rod interference.

 

Ok, and sorry for asking these seemingly silly questions!! When I went to your link Roger you were mostly listing items that dealt with BL's. Which 'spacer' would you say is needed if moving the box as far forward as possible? 1", 2" or 3"?

John

 

Measure and see what you need, mount box and measure from end of shaft to the box. Main application fo the spacers is body lifts (steering shaft raises w/ body - steering box attached to frame), but no different with movin the box around, shaft is still attached to the fire wall.

I run a 2" extension on mine. My steering shaft was extended when the IFS box was installed and then with the 3" body lift, extended farther. Got to the point the steering shaft was floppy since it was pulled out so far only had an inch or two of engagement with the 2 halves:

 

well, using a flat pittman let me mount the box straight up and down, and push it farther forward without having to cut out a lot of the firewall above the body mount. otherwise with a drop pittman, you can accomplish the same thing, except cut out a ton of firewall and you don't quite get the clearance that you can with a flat one.

 

I cut my radiator support to move my box as far forward as I could. My draglink and tie-rod are perfectly parallel to each other. I don't have any contact with either.

 

What did you do about the steering shaft 84? (The one from the firewall to the box)

John

 

Yeah I learned this the hard way. (When I added my FROR stearing arms) But got it all figured out and all is well.

 

I just drilled out the plastic rivets and the stock shaft had enough play and engagement to run as is.

 

Move the IFS box as far forward. Sleeve the frame and plate it.


I upgraded to a mini-truck beefier steering shaft with a slip spline instead of the 85 rag joing and having to drill out the plastic...cost me $20.

Stock is on top

Beef is on bottom

Never had a single issue with mine.

We have all the parts you need too.
http://www.wabfab.org/products/steering/steering.htm

 

Thanks for the tip Wabbit! Which year Mini-Truck are those shafts out of? Is it '86 - '95? That sounds like a decent upgrade. Is the rag joint never going to be safely long enough without the spacer?

Also, when you upgraded to the 'beefier' shaft, was it a slip out or is the splined portion of it at the steering wheel? (Meaning did the steering wheel need to be pulled to get the shaft off/on?)

John