1984 22r with originally an externally regulated alternator. A few years back, when I was putting in a new head, I went ahead and put on the brackets to use a GM alternator in my rig. I bought a one wire cs130 from a local shop, and I had my mechanic that did the head work, put everything back together.
Though it's a one wire alternator, my volt meter works, but not my charge light. Everything was fine until my battery started discharging last weekend, and that has lead me to rethink the GM alternator.
Why? I went with a one wire because of the "stranded in small town in BFE and they would not carry a replacement alternator" scenario. What I'm finding out is that if that's your concern, stay with a 3 wire system. Most auto parts employees' eyes glaze over when you explain that your cs130 is set up for use as a one wire.
Secondly, when taking out the the cs130 alternator, it is physically too big to get it out without draining part of the radiator and disconnecting the lower hose. I am a clutz, and whenever I try to do a clean drain, I always spill some coolant on my arms and have to watch a fair amount of toyota red gold coolant go down the driveway (switched to zerex now). Is there a trick to removing these larger than life alternators without dc'ng the lower hose?
I tried from the top, the bottom, and yelling at it. That didn't work either.
Now I am seriously thinking of going back to a modified factory alternator, the jag alternator, or going to a 3 wire GM instead of a the one wire.

What am I missing? If the jag alternators work, and you leave your wiring in place, except for the larger alt Bat pos wire, you have plug and play and another option if you get stranded? Hell, keep the the GM adapters in your parts bag in case you can't find a stock or jag replacement? Discuss

 

Even the stock alt is a pain to get out with the lower radiator hose still on. I always end up draining and refilling the radiator.

Just get a mean green alt. Problem solved and you can use your stock wiring, but I do suggest upgrading the gauge of wire that goes from the hot side of the alt to the hot side of the battery.

 

This is good to know. The stock alternator had never been removed, and the shop did the work, so I didn't know that even it required a partial drain. My old 3.0, even with all the wiring and mess, could be pulled up from the top.

Yeah, I am leaving the thick alt to battery wire for sure. That's needed for any of the options.

 

Ive slipped a few 22re stock alternators out with out draining any coolant off. Its a weird trick but you have to go between the hose and the fan blade and roll it out. Its a tight fit but will go in and out.

 

where are you going to find a jag alt in bfe? it doesn't sound like a good idea.

 

If you are just upgrading, and the original is not trashed, you can keep it as a backup. In case you can't get either a jag or toyota alternator at the parts store, if you keep the TG kit on hand (for those that have already purchased it) you can do the swap at that time.

I am at a cross roads on keeping the GM setup or going back to a more stock approach. If it looks like even the Jag alternator requires a partial fluid drain to change out, I'll probably keep the GM, but go to a 3 wire so I can use an off the shelf unit.

There was a big move to "get a one wire GM" and be done with it, and I am just looking at the downside to that.

 

Don't you need to do some grinding on the jag alt. to make it fit? Something like a part of it is too thick.

 

Yeah, it looks like their is some machining to do on it, and a quick search did not really warrant any cost savings either.

I'm back to using a GM style, but now I am digging through all of my wires and cross referencing several posts and my FSM to put it back to a functioning 3 wire system.

I am resolved to knowing that the lower radiator hose will need to be disconnected to do a change. I'll just have to keep a gallon of distilled water with me or pick one up if I have to change out the alternator.

 

I use an acura integra alt. Put the toyota reg and qet the stock toy alt pulley an bore it from 15mm to17mm and it bolts on like factory piece but with 95amp.

 

Good option. Especially if you can find one at the salvage yard. So, the pulley is what is changed and bored, but the alternator would be off the shelf? Not bad.

 

Mandy, I thought about this setup last night. Are you running this alternator through the toyota factory IC external regulator or did you mean to say that you pulled the factory regulator? My 84 had the driver side mounted external regulator that says "IC regulator" in big letters on it.
Assuming that an integra alternator would be internally regulated.

 

yes its internal regulator.very easy task the wiring.you csn use the wiring of the ext. If you get the acura alt with the plug will be best then. I use toy int reg. Cause use the stock conector

 

I am going to stick with the CS130. I talked to the local shop that I bought it from about rebuilding it to 140 and he immediately replied that to run the stock belt with it rewound would cause issues.
It looks like my current wiring is in place for going back to a 3 wire, I just have to either get a new alternator or have this one rebuilt as a 3 wire.

 

Don't have any suggestions for alternators but as to removing the alternator without draining the coolant, if you unbolt the metal tube between the two hoses from the block, it'll let you finagle it enough to get it out with out a mess : )
Hans

 

This is why I love Yotatech. Great idea. I have to remember that one.

 

I recently had my alternator rebuilt after a power steering leak caused it to short out and stop working. $150 bucks out the door, tested 65 amps at idle and 139 amps max. I was only a little scared that I was going to pinch a hose getting it out but it proved to be fairly trivial.

 

I have always just taken the alternators out from the top. Just finaggle it out past the power steering pump and lines. Pretty simple.

Edit: unless you were talking about the GM alt. Then I have no idea.

 

Yup. I think that's the biggest downside to the GM, but as long as you are resolved to lose some coolant and picking up a gallon of distilled water too, it's not that bad.

 

Quick update. one year later.
I had the alternator out and rolled my 4runner into the garage. Unfortunately, life got in the way, the garage got junked up and I finally had enough time to get it running again. Besides the alternator, I had other problems to fix including: new gear box, TRE boot replacement, addressing my lack of turning radius, leaking pS pump, the trail gear bracket for the GM alternator causing the PS pump to rub the heater hose, and then the alternator decision or rewire......
For the alternator, I went with another CS130 that was new, not a refurb, from Oreilly. It's out of an early 90's Buick V6 (3.3) and it's NOT 1 wire capable. My best understanding with that is that the plug on the alternator (the PLFS) circuits are normal (compared to my previous one that was 1 wire capable).
My previous installer did the initial splice for the 1 wire, and after all my research, I just used the spliced Toyota/GM harness.
On the GM side Toyota wire color
P-taped off
L- Yellow (L)
F- Red (I/F)
S- White (s)

The other white wire from the toyota plug is taped off.

I did not, but I plan to wire in the 50 ohm resistor. I also need to put in an inline fuse at the battery for the battery to ALT wire.
My external voltage regulator has been removed.

When I turned my key to the ACC position, my charge light did not light up and I started thinking that the bulb was burned out. I let my battery continue charging (it was stuck in the garage for a year.....) Finally, the truck turned over, and everything looked to be in order besides a loose belt and leaking hose. However, my charge light would still not illuminate to indicate it was working (idiot light check), so I thought the above wiring was wrong. I started poking around and then I found the culprit. The 7.5 amp charge fuse was blown?! I replaced it, the charge lamp now works. It comes on when the key is in the ACC position along with the other warning lights, and then goes out on startup.

One more note: If you go this route and you install the GM alternator brackets, make sure you adjust the PS bracket to put it as high as possible. It's only an 1/8" difference, but it keeps it from rubbing the heater hose. That's what caused my hose to burst, and my alternator failure.