Cool on the rear main crank plate gasket. Hear ya on the OEM Seal... NOT a bad decision, Soccer. And, good to hear on the "I WAS RIGHT" PORTION! hahaha... Jk, could care less about being right... just don't want to give dangerous or possibly damaging input. Thus, the "double check me on that, 10-4?" stuff, lol.

Best to ya, tomorrow... you'll get it in no time, man... no worries. Just take your time. I know it's easy to have a tendency to RUSH when you're 'right there!!!!'.... BUT NO! haha.

Glad to hear it's coming together, ...Next phase, BACK TO STARTER THREAD! lol.

Mark

 

Yep. Hopefully starter thread will be coming back to life on sunday. Thanks again for all the help.

 

My pleasure, man... best wishes on that..... and I'll throw in whatever I think might be helpful.

Have a great weekend,

Mark

 

Believe me I've been where you are. Learning by doing is how you get it.

Vita sine litteris mors est

Now are you SURE it's right? Not on upside down?

:wabbit2:

 

I am certain that it is correct now. Talked to a lot of different people. Will never make that mistake again.

Quick question on the rear oil seal retainer.

There is a gasket between it and the block. Does this gasket get permatex and what are the torque specs on the bolts for this thing? I just looked through the Engine Mechanical section in the FSM for it and couldn't find anything on the actual install besides the manual just saying to install it.

 

Sweet on the 'it's in now!' portion! lol...

Not sure what you mean.... you mean the crank rear main seal housing? Hmmm, I could SWEAR that's in my Haynes.... Maybe it's just sneakily hiding where you wouldn't think it is, ....OF COURSE, it would be, right? Mine was brand new when I got the block back.... so I just left that housing in and pressed/tapped in the seal with a seal install kit from Kragen! I guess it would be wise to use a VERY thin coating, both sides.... but I can't be sure on that, Soccer.

 

I used a very thin coat on both sides. Don't plan on taking it off any time soon. They are torqued to about 15 foot-lbs, although I didn't see the spec anywhere. I put a tiny bit of thread locker there just in case. Covering all my bases. ha ha.

I'm having a tough time getting the tranny and engine lined up. They are very very very close. I even have some longer bolts that I ran through the holes and was about the thread on the other side of either the engine or tranny, one on each side. Top to bottom and side to side all looks evenly spaced, but it must not be or it would slot right in.The tool I'm workin with to lift this tranny is ridiculous, so that's prob. half the problem. Everything is installed though expect the mating of the tranny engine (super close right now). Then back to the fun part after that is done.

 

Well, not suggesting to force it, Soccer... but I had a bit tougher time getting it back in than getting mine out, and I think that's partly to do with the fact that the new Pilot Bearing is, well, a bit tighter. Once you get it down and it's like 1/2" or so, max, that feels like it's binding.... it's usually the tip of the shaft trying to get through the bearing to where it sits, butt up against the front of the inner ring of the bearing. I got REALLY close and then, slowly staggered the bolts in a bit and they weren't resistant much, and slowly it just snugged itself back in, snug. Tightened em up in a pattern and VOILA! lol.

Not saying YOU SHOULD try that... but think about it, ya know? Think about what's going on in there and how it's supposed to be a mildly snug fit...the shaft tip through the center of the bearing.

L8r man.. I'm out for the count! lol.

Mark

 

Yeah, it's not that close yet. I'm thinking that maybe the splines aren't lining up and I'll have to pull it back (PIA the way I have the thing held up) and maybe turn them ever so slightly.

I did the exact way you were talking when I mated the engine to the tranny. Got it in real close (i knew it was lined up) and then snugged it together. The pins that line up between the tranny and engine are kinda tight I think, so that may be the reason, but the holes are chamfered, so once you are that close it has to go together correctly.

 

I'm watching... dang, that stinks. Well, you'll have to turn it a MICRO-smidgen, lol... then guide her in there! Still tuned in. Wish I could be a helping hand. You in L.A.? lol.

 

Nah... I'm in WA. Help would be useful. ha ha. I'm gonna give it a go. Hopefully It'll be done in the next half hour and I can bolt it all back together.

 

I finally got the tranny back on. Took me forever today to get it lined up and mated. I have it bolted up and everything associated with it as well. I am back to the starter issue.

 

SWEET, ...now, 'DONE', .....granting you actually DRIVE IT and notice no issues with this end! GOOD, ... congratz!

 

Thanks... Definitely feels good to get that out of the way for now and have one of those under the belt.

 

.... Again, congratz!

 

Look at your pics again. Disk is stamped T/M SIDE That is the side facing the TransMission.

 

I don't see where you are talking. I had looked, in person, and didn't see anything.

 

Look in the red circle.

THIS is the side that faces the transmission:

 

That's not my clutch disc. There are photos of mine on the first page. That was an example that was posted and that helped determine the correct direction for install.

 

oops, sorry.
makes sense now. I got my kit from JTOutfitters, and thankfully, it had TM SIDE on it as well.