Hey guys ive been running my 90 pickup i bought a while its converted to weber but any ways it started to have white smoke fuel smelling and started leaking oil a little around where the dipstick is n a little rough has 223,000mi so i did a comp test front to back 170 155 168 90 added oil to number 4 got up to 120 im low on cash not sure wat to do

Also had a little thick looking gunk at top of valve cover n top of dip stick by the rubber ring also runs a little warmer then usual n have to ad coolant maybe cup or two every day i drive 60 mi a day to n from work sorry about the long post but ive searched n had a hard time determining hg or valves or rings etc its my only vehicle thanx in advance aloha

 

Oil in number four and the compression goes up, indicates rings are probably collapsed. The oil just seals around the piston, which is the job of the rings. So long as you didnt fill up the cylinder with oil causing the head gasket/valve seat to seal also...

The only way to fix the rings is replacement usually...

 

What about the loss of coolant in radiator and the goey sludge it looks like grease could water be getting in engine HG maybe leaking

 

Would running thicker oil help till i get some funds to buy a reman or rebuild a used shipping to hawaii is kinda steep lol

 

If you have water in the oil, and vice versa, then driving it at all is just going to probably damage the engine more. Thicker oil will not help with what you're describing.

If it were my truck and I was unable to fix it right, I would go to the parts store, get some of that radiator stop leak(some places have a head gasket stop leak) and for the compression issue, I would get some Seafoam, BG MOA, or something similar, to try and help free up the sticky, collapsed rings.

If you're really, really, really on a super tight budget, then pepper for the radiator, ATF for the oil additive. But that can do some harsh, irrepairable damage if left that way... Just FYI...

 

I just put seafoam in the gas tank last week and thats when the temp gauge started acting weird a couple days later and as for the oil if there was water wouldnt it be all over milky when i open the valve cover it only has the gunk at the top nothing on the valve train thanx alot for your help ill take a pic when i get off work today

 

Blown head gasket into the oil gallery probably.

Depending on your skills, you can re-ring #4 with a ball hone, and just have #4 valves done.
it would cheap & chintzy but it might hold you over till better times.

 

If its a little bit of gunk(spoonful or so), then its normal. Condensation rises and accumulates and mixes slightly with the oil up on top of head, usually where there is no oil flowing to dissipate it. If its alot then there is other internal issues.

Put some Seafoam in the oil also. It is a cleaner with lots of petroleum distillates and will help free up stuck rings that get sludged up. The sludge is caused mostly by cheap oil that breaks down before its due to be changed. Some oils used to be paraffin based and would turn to wax down in the engine. Quaker State and Penzoil were that way. I believe they have since changed their formulation though.

 

Ok i never had time to take pic just got home getting dark(no garage) but anyway i bought the blue devil hesd gasket sealer anyone tried it
before
Also the front of valve cover top with filter water coming out so im pretty sure hG is leaking atleast a little

I am not real skilled mostly rebuilt 2stroke dirtbikes mopeds etc never big stuff like car engines so i dont think i can rering #4 and machine shop is on the other side of island so doing it my self is almost out of the question

How long can it go with a little leak like i got?if i dont let it overheat or run real hot
Im just frustrated i just bought msd coil blaster headers flowmaster and now this happens it was running great fml thanx again for the help guys really appreciate it and happy holidays

 

Just sell those things you bought and pick up a motor. Can find um for like 4-500. Swap the mOtor then sell the old one for 100$. Haha

 

You can milk it a long time. mine ran for a year with a wiped out #4 exhaust cam lobe. These are tough engines, but you have to keep the water out of the oil by getting it up to temp for a while without overheating or changing it more often. Use Sears / kmart brand re-refined oil since its cheap, & its never going to a race track.

 

Change of plans bought head gasket kit and water pump going to attemp to fix it tommorow any help to make it easier only got 1 day to do it i got the manual but it sucks thanx

 

Get lots of 5hr Energy and I hope that fixes it....

 

Good luck JK and label everything twice go slow. Place the bolts you take out into holes in a cardboard template that resembles how they come out, Oh and label everything 3 times.

 

Hey guys just going through the book it says u need to remove front diff is that neccesary

 

Only if you plan on pulling the oil pan.

One fellow zip tied the chain to the cam gear so he could not lose his timing spot . If you are doing a chain as well it don't matter.

 

Ok got it all off HG looks new oil looks like regular used oil coolant clean n green used a square block n head straight no warpage cracked head maybe im at a lost started 6 dis morning now im stomped lost help guys thanx

 

Wats a decent head pressure check price deciding if its worth it pretty sure its cracked tc looks good all guides intact check head for cracks or put back on n pray

 

If it's still taken apart you can try to wiggle the #4 piston to see if it's tight or not. If it's loose you need to give some attention to the rings.

I don't know about other parts but I have had heads magnaflux tested for $20.

 

Machine shop 70 to test theres a used one supposedly just redone month ago 180 should i test mine or buy used