Another Start and Die.
#1
Another Start and Die.
Wuddup fellers. What I have is a 1985 4runner 22re. Let me give a little run-down of the situation.
While looking for exhaust leaks on a friends truck, we noticed a length of the 3 wires that run to the coil(connecting to the green connector) was routed to droop right over the exhaust. Wires looked pretty toasted, friend decides to splice in some freshies to mitigate any possible future situations. Seems alright to me. This was this afternoon I believe.
Friend goes to start the truck and the truck starts and dies pretty much immediately. Check engine flashies give codes 3 and 7.
Other mentionables:
- He's messed with his TPS a little as well
- He's tested the fuel pump and it sounds like it primes the system
- He says wiring is all good(I'll have a look at it tomorrow)
- We also ran some seafoam in the brake booster to intake to see smoke coming from the leak
Just thought I would get this thread going and possibly ask for some input of the situation....what tests/checks to run, or other threads to look at. I've been searching, there's a lot out there on this stuff.
Thanks for the help.
While looking for exhaust leaks on a friends truck, we noticed a length of the 3 wires that run to the coil(connecting to the green connector) was routed to droop right over the exhaust. Wires looked pretty toasted, friend decides to splice in some freshies to mitigate any possible future situations. Seems alright to me. This was this afternoon I believe.
Friend goes to start the truck and the truck starts and dies pretty much immediately. Check engine flashies give codes 3 and 7.
Other mentionables:
- He's messed with his TPS a little as well
- He's tested the fuel pump and it sounds like it primes the system
- He says wiring is all good(I'll have a look at it tomorrow)
- We also ran some seafoam in the brake booster to intake to see smoke coming from the leak
Just thought I would get this thread going and possibly ask for some input of the situation....what tests/checks to run, or other threads to look at. I've been searching, there's a lot out there on this stuff.
Thanks for the help.
#2
Problem solved...or something like that.
We looked at a few things. I was able to keep it running by feathering the throttle, and it was running pretty rough. The exhaust leak he had was pretty bad, so we just tightened up some of the bolts to get a better seal. The spark plug wires felt like they were fitting a little loose on the plugs so we put some dielectric grease on those. The last thing was the airbox was opened with a wire in there to jam open the (insert acronym here), so when we removed that everything worked just fine.
We looked at a few things. I was able to keep it running by feathering the throttle, and it was running pretty rough. The exhaust leak he had was pretty bad, so we just tightened up some of the bolts to get a better seal. The spark plug wires felt like they were fitting a little loose on the plugs so we put some dielectric grease on those. The last thing was the airbox was opened with a wire in there to jam open the (insert acronym here), so when we removed that everything worked just fine.
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
The Air Flow Meter is probably what you're talking about, it tells the ECU how much air is going into the engine, so it knows how much fuel to inject. It also controls the fuel pump to run while the engine is running. Sounds like someone poked around not knowing what they were doing trying to solve some issue. If you search there should be a guide on how to properly set the TPS, and I'd suggest testing the air flow meter (AFM, MAFM and a million others cuz it isn't the same as MAS or MAP like US built engines). Anyway, there's resistances and such to know of the AFM is working up to par.
Look for any other sensors that were fiddled with, from memory there's an air screw on the intake that effects the idle. A service manual would tell how to properly adjust it, and there's an o-ring on it that can go bad and cause odd idle issues.
For the spliced in wire, I hope he used high temp wire like GXL grade, if not the new wire might start to get brittle quickly or melt if it gets too hot and short out. If not I can make up a proper pig tail with the right kind of wire if you want, pretty sure I have the right connector on hand. FYI, GXL is commonly used on fuel injector harnesses, they take a lot of heat. From memory it's rated at 105C, but I've tested it with my solder iron set to 360C and it didn't melt.
Look for any other sensors that were fiddled with, from memory there's an air screw on the intake that effects the idle. A service manual would tell how to properly adjust it, and there's an o-ring on it that can go bad and cause odd idle issues.
For the spliced in wire, I hope he used high temp wire like GXL grade, if not the new wire might start to get brittle quickly or melt if it gets too hot and short out. If not I can make up a proper pig tail with the right kind of wire if you want, pretty sure I have the right connector on hand. FYI, GXL is commonly used on fuel injector harnesses, they take a lot of heat. From memory it's rated at 105C, but I've tested it with my solder iron set to 360C and it didn't melt.
#4
Thanks for the response. Yeah, I just kind of came in near the end and sort of "restarted from ground zero" and it was fine after doing those couple of things I mentioned before.
Thanks for letting me know about the wiring though, I should probably let him know. He's been driving around without a wiring loom since the post(which I was unaware of until 2 nights ago, actually. Funny thing that you bring it up today!), so I'm sure that wire ain't gonna last long if that's the case.
Thanks for letting me know about the wiring though, I should probably let him know. He's been driving around without a wiring loom since the post(which I was unaware of until 2 nights ago, actually. Funny thing that you bring it up today!), so I'm sure that wire ain't gonna last long if that's the case.
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Yea, you can buy good quality PVC tubing for the harness too. Here's the place I buy it. I use the high gloss for ATV harnesses, and haven't had any issues with the wire routing that go near the engine/exhaust. The stuff at the top is higher temp though (105C vs 80C). In either case you'd probably want the 6mm for a nice fit, 8mm would work too. I can get about 4 18 gauge wires max in the 6mm size. The tubing might be enough to protect the wires, atleast it should keep the temps down for them and make them last longer. I can't really suggest a place to buy the wire, my supplier's min order is 100ft, I buy 1000ft at a time.
If he happens to want to go with my pig tail (assuming I have the right connector on hand), note down what the OEM wire colors were, I can match them, or atleast get close to matching colors from what I have on hand.
http://www.cycleterminal.com/sleeve-tubing.html
If he happens to want to go with my pig tail (assuming I have the right connector on hand), note down what the OEM wire colors were, I can match them, or atleast get close to matching colors from what I have on hand.
http://www.cycleterminal.com/sleeve-tubing.html
Last edited by atcfixer; 03-23-2018 at 09:21 AM.
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