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Advice needed: 22r high temp troubleshooting

Old 06-10-2019, 03:33 PM
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Advice needed: 22r high temp troubleshooting

I can't seem to figure out what is causing my 22r to run hot. RPM's above 3k, temps above 90, and hills, result in temp gauge reading in the photo. LCE dual row timing chain conversion with new water pump. LCE performance curve dist with timing set at 5 degrees. 4 row radiator (yes, four. Same problem with three row.), with rows offset for max cooling. Black Magic S-blade Fan with shroud. Turning the heater on doesn't seem to help much. Offy dual plane intake with Weber 32/36. Valves may be slightly fried due to previous moderate lean condition...exhaust closing up about .001 in two thousand miles, but mixture is right on now, monitored with PLX AFR setup. My next move is to go back to stock fan, but I have little hope for that since high temps happen at 70mph on the freeway, and a fan isn't going to beat that, or to install cold air intake. It gets super hot under the hood, and the fan blows directly into the open element and at temp sensor. Interested in votes for which direction to go first (cold air intake or stock fan), or other possible solutions. Beginning to think it could be a blockage somewhere.

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Old 06-10-2019, 08:39 PM
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I vote blockage. Can you bypass the heater core by looping the 2 hoses together? Also stupid question but have you checked for water in the oil or oil in the coolant?
When was the last time you flushed the cooling system? As in did you just swap the radiator or flush the entire system? I had a bad water pump back on my first 85 bought NIB and didn't work for ˟˟˟˟˟. What does the coolant do when you start it up cold with the cap off and let it come up to temp. Can you see it moving? Are both the upper and lower radiator hoses smoking hot when it's overheating?
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Old 06-11-2019, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by OldBlueMidnight View Post
I can't seem to figure out what is causing my 22r to run hot.
Looks like normal operating temp. to me.
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Old 06-11-2019, 04:44 PM
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You need to get quantifiable (numbers) on the temperature, the dash mounted guage doesn't give you good enough data. You maybe running the wrong temp guage sender for it, for example there are two dash clusters and they use a different voltage divider (voltage level).

It would be a good idea to compare the radiator input and output temps.

It's plausible your three row "offset" radiator is restricting air flow.

A factory air cleaner which should include a tube that draws air from the grill area will have an effect on the engine, but it's not the cause of excessive engine or engine bay temps. It's all about air flow thru the grill and out of the engine bay, unless were talking about "cherry red exhaust manifolds".

..
Bottom line get a number on the actual temperature. Even if your buying a low budget uncalibrated gauge.
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Old 06-11-2019, 05:56 PM
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Sounds like there is some consensus on getting a handle on actual input/output temps. With regard to the questions, I'll put bypassing the heater on the troubleshoot list, no obvious water in oil or vice versa, no sludge under filler cap after thousands of miles, so head gasket seems OK. Radiator and block have been drained and hose flushed, but not machine flushed. Definitely have good flow at idle with cap off. Temp comes back down pretty quick when stopped, so it's hard to get a good read on input/output hose temps when problem is actually happening. I tried getting a sense with a cheapo IR temp gun yesterday, definitely pretty big differential, but that was at idle with temp gauge halfway. LCE 4-into-one header hasn't gotten cherry red since I removed air injection years ago. New sender ordered from Toyota by VIN if I remember correctly, gauge seems consistent with T-stat opening, but maybe sender in offy dual plane is more susceptible to bad reading in hot engine bay than stock manifold?

Based on these comments my first troubleshoot steps will be to take the hood off and drive around, see if that has any effect, then pull radiator and have bungs added in top and bottom tanks, add gauges to get a good sense of temps when problem is occurring. I'll post if I figure anything out.
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Old 06-12-2019, 04:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Co_94_PU View Post
You need to get quantifiable (numbers) on the temperature, the dash mounted guage doesn't give you good enough data. You maybe running the wrong temp guage sender for it, for example there are two dash clusters and they use a different voltage divider (voltage level).

It would be a good idea to compare the radiator input and output temps.

It's plausible your three row "offset" radiator is restricting air flow.

A factory air cleaner which should include a tube that draws air from the grill area will have an effect on the engine, but it's not the cause of excessive engine or engine bay temps. It's all about air flow thru the grill and out of the engine bay, unless were talking about "cherry red exhaust manifolds".

..
Bottom line get a number on the actual temperature. Even if your buying a low budget uncalibrated gauge.
X2. Mine does not run hot, only reaches about 1/3 on the gauge ever, but when i put the ir gun on the thermostat housing with the engine at full temp, it reads almost exactly what the rating of the thermostat is, 190*.

do you know what the rating is? I see 160, 180, 190, 195* offered at rock auto.

Last edited by Melrose 4r; 06-12-2019 at 04:21 AM.
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Old 06-15-2019, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by OldBlueMidnight View Post
Based on these comments my first troubleshoot steps will be to take the hood off and drive around, see if that has any effect, then pull radiator and have bungs added in top and bottom tanks, add gauges to get a good sense of temps when problem is occurring. I'll post if I figure anything out.
Get an IR handheld temp gun. Just the thing for instantaneous pinpoint temp readings.
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