mackadocious916

Hello. I am joining this forum kind of out of desperation. I am new to this forum, but not to performance vehicles. I have owned about 20 cars and trucks, and learned how to work on/modify them pretty much by trial and error. I am not ASE certified, but i have done a lot..

So here is my story....

I recently bought an 85 toyota efi 22r auto solid front axle truck in the blue color which i have wanted for years (after having had an 86 xtra cab ifs that just wasnt up to snuff). It is a dlx model. The truck was solid with AC and spme dings n dents but i talked the previous owner down to 2200 due to front end empty of fluids because the hub grease and diff fluid were mixing and it needed a rebuild. I took the truck to s and h 4 wheel drive and paid 1200 to have the whole front axle rebuilt and rear differential rebuilt to stock specs. I did the intake/ battery swap and had a panel k&n with an optima battery. I got a sr5 guage cluster and 4runner altimeter from a guy of craigslist in san jose. I researched and studied forums and rewired the pins in the guage cluster and got that to where all guages worked. I detailed the interior. I painted the stock white steel wheels black and had bfg ATs on her. Got a cracked windshield fixxed, and had basically ran her like that for a few months drivong a short commute to work and a couple of times to the bay area and back. I did have some slight seapage but i thin its is from the front seal or oil pump (but i lnew it wasnt that big a deal andid get around to it).
Heres where the story takes a turn for the worst.... In broad daylight on saturday my truck got stolen...
Luckily, the CHP recovered my vehicle 3 days later.... Unfortinately it had been semi stripped....
The theives had stolen my factory airbox, MAF, spark plug wires, coolant overflow tank, cut my fuel filler tube and drained my gas tank (I had just filled up), took my 31" bfgs n rims, took some fuses from the fuse box 60 & 30amp fusable links, some vacume lines.... Just some random weird stuff you could steal as if a knife was your only tool...
Anyways... I went down to the junkyard and paid 370.00 to get it out of impound, and to tow it home. It was an ugly sight sitting on disc breaks with ruts dug into the concrete where it had been slid off the trailer... So when it got towed home, the first thing i did was buy 300.00 MT from an 82 model off craigslist so the authorities wouldnt tow it. I went to pick n pull rancho and got a fusebox, fuel filler tube... I went to pick n pull in fairfield CA and got the air inlet box and a maf from a 2wd model 22r pickup. I also picked up a spare ps pump resevoir to use as a coolant overflow tank with limited room underhood due to intake battery swap. I had a autozone redtop spare battery in my garage so used that. I bought new ngk iridium spark plugs and plug wires. My fluids looked fine.

So here is my problem. With the used pick n pull maf and all the other parts(and gas in the tankk), i can get her to fire and idle but she sputters and will die, or it seems as if when i give her heavy right foot gas she floods and falls on her face.... I can edge into her slow but at about 2500rpm she wont rev much higher and seems to backfire..... The check engine light is on and it flashed a #2 & #8 check engine light.... So i got out the multimeter and tested the pick n pull maf and the maf did not work on the test procedure, so i bit the bullet on partsgeek and got 1 for 140.00(i couldnt find a 83 supra maf and just wanted to get her runnin) welp now i have diconnected the negative and positive terminals of the battery but the same #2  cels are there and never seemed to have erased..... I installed the new maf with a 88 k&n cone filter fipk kit, and she fires fine but i have the same problem as with the pick n pull maf.... I have rechecked the plug wires firing order, replaced the withfuses, and i dont know what to try, and im already into her roughly 1200.00 since the theft and dont want to pay for a mechanic unless absolutely necessary......
In my factory service manual code 2 says trouble from signal with intake air sensor terminal Vc...... Code 8 says no thermo sensor 1 signal....

I am kinda out of ideas and dont know what to do at this point, shouldnt the new maf fix these codes...???

Any help would be appreciated... I have searched.. I feel like it is probably something really small i am overlooking, and dont want a shop to charge me an arm and a leg to diagnose the problem...

Thanks in advance...

mackadocious916

I will test the new maf to see if it isnt defective from the factory...

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

Correct term for that unit would be AFM( air flow meter), if you're referring to the item that sits on top of the air box, with the hose that goes over to intake.

I'm still researching your problem myself, since I'm not very familiar with the 22RE electronics diagnostics, but I'm sure someone will chime in.

And you stated it was a 22R(carb), but I'm assuming its a 22RE(fuel injected), since you're referring to the AFM...

mackadocious916

Yes it is the desirable efi.... Some pics to illustrate...

mackadocious916

So the above is how it was when it was stripped.... Here it is now.....

...
I will test the brand new afm/maf after work

mackadocious916

At lunch..... So she will idle fine.... If i get into the gas pedal hard she falls on her face... If i lightly pressthe pedal and increase pressure, she will rev to about 2500 rpm the start to pop n backfire and die.... I have 2 codes #2 & #8... Any thoughts.... (besidesthe new out of the box maf/afm i will check after work)

wavekayaker

Check if the distributor is loose. Sounds like timing is off. Good luck!

85toy4runner

nice truck, thats one of my favorite colors . im glad you got it back, hope they catch those scum idiots

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

I cried when I saw the stripped pics....

Logan81Pickup

At least you still have the truck...

I'm lucky to live in a location where stuff just doesn't get stolen often...

Also my junk looks pretty junky.

mackadocious916

Thanks for the replies guys....
So after dinner i will be using this testing procedure in the FSM i found on youtube...i had to work on my mustang last night (starter issue)...
I will check the distributor too....

osv

both of those codes point to either an afm problem or a cpu problem, see if this site helps with the troubleshooting:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TroubleCodes/

one thing you can do with the afm is peel off the rtv from the black plastic plate on top, and gently pull the plate up to inspect inside... i wouldn't do that with the partsgeek stuff, in case you have to return it.

mackadocious916

Thanks for the link....... I actually saw that a week ago to learn how to make the jumper wire to read the odbI codes for my check engine light.....

So.... I pulled the new maf/afm and did the tests...


So go figure it pases fine....
So out of curiousity i check the old one i thought was broken... And it passes as well...smh

I see in the fsm and above link it says afm or ecu.... I cant believe that the ecu is all of a sudden messed up after being fine for months and just stolen and broken....
My sneaking suspicion is that when the theives stole the maf/afm n intake box n battery, the may have somehow messed up the wiring from the plug outlet from the maf/afm to the ecu.... I think that is why it has been a pita to diagnose...
So its 1am now and too dark but tommorow i will unloom the maf wiring extension(from the ontake battery swap, and see if that doesn't remedy the problem..

mackadocious916

I hope im not chasing the dragon..... But this is the loom i am speaking of.....

I hate elictrical gremlins....

osv

i wonder if they yanked on it so hard that it damaged some wiring??

the good news is that at least you have some codes to start working with... if you had that same performance issue with no codes, you'd be in deep... ask me how i know, lol

you can get some extension wire for the multimeter, and ring out the wires for continuity, one at a time, back to the cpu connector in the cab.

the problem is that sometimes the wiring is so frayed that it won't pass sufficient current to get the job done, but it will show continuity on a multimeter test, because that uses a small amount of current.

afaik, that connector is not a typical problem area, where you are much more likely to have harness gremlins is in the main engine harness area, about where it hits the intake manifold area... somewhere along the line toyota deviated from the fsm wiring diagram, they cut and crimp-spliced the leads going the injectors, including the ground wiring i believe.

it gets very corroded at the splice areas, and causes all kinds of gremlins... in my case, even the main harness ground wire had corroded several feet back from the splice, i finally got tired of ripping it out and cutting it back, and just used sandpaper to clean up the wire, then solder it... so far it's been perfect, but...

i had the benefit of being a former electronics tech, with over 7,000 solder joints under my belt... i can imagine that it could be a bit overwhelming for the average joe to have to troubleshoot and fix something like that.

hang in there!!

mackadocious916

That is exactly what i am thinking.... Normally yanking there might not work to do damage, but since i extended the wiring harness from that plug during the intake battery swap about 4feet that is my concern... I almost feel like if i take the maf and put it back in( i took it out to test it indoors at 1am last night) and plug it all in and check the wiring for continuity at both sides of the 4ft extension splice, if i can solve the problem....

mackadocious916

With one of these... ... I have a multimeter as well...

mackadocious916

Sorry for the late update but i had to fix my 04 mustang gts starter cuz the jba headers were getting it too hot and put starter heat wrap on it, plus my gfs grand am power steering pump and coolant leak yesterday night.... But i found the problem....
Can you see it yet............no

See the pin.....
Well, it is supposed to be in this pigtail coming out of the maf.....

So the thieves yanked the pin out the pigtail......smh
1pin almost makes the whole truck undrivable......
So i got her all back together...
Then i hosed her off at the coin op. Only issue left is the brake dust shields are mashed into the rotors making some funky noises since it was towed with no tires wheels then drug along the concrete.... I added some theft deterants but will put more on.....
Thanks for all of the suggestions.... Overall a good weekend pretty much fixxed 3 vehicles that have had nagging issues... And just in time too. My gf been giving me the buisness for spending more time in the garage than with her... ... I just tell her we are saving labor $.....

mackadocious916

Oh yeah.... I took the neg cable off the battery to clear the codes... Then i re hooked it up and took the pos cable off and hooked it up, but my check engine is still blinking... Is there another way to delete check engine lights...?
Or must both cables be disconnected at the same time to erase codes...

mackadocious916

Okay... Found this.... Will reset 2mrw...
http://www.ehow.com/how_7277843_clea...ota-truck.html