Looking forward to more progress!

 

so after a few nights of dealing with bad grounds i finally got the diesel to fire up. i was shy a few hose clamps, once i get the motor air tight it should run smoother.

 

 

a few days off from workin on the runner, got her to run a bit smoother. will be back to work on it tomorrow, bleed some lines and drive it around the lot for the first time. sorry for the poopy quality of the vid, only had my cell phone on me. ill get some better pics of it soon.

 

Been reading the mail. I have my son's '85 RV conversion with the 2L-T engine. I drove it back to Seattle area from Denver after he passed away.

One issue was overheating. I later discovered he had the two radiator caps were connected wrong. The main radiator cap was connected to the input of the overflow reservoir and the upper cap was connected to the ourput side. Thus when the engine cooled down the upper cap would suck in air. Had an awful time with overheating in Wyoming and Montana on the way back. Correction seems to be working particularly after burping the system to get coolant through the heater. Parked on an upslope and ran the engine while feeding the upper fill point and watching the bubbles dissipate. System now seems to be working properly and has not seen any loss of coolant. Radiator may just be too small though particularly with the RV body on the rig.

With the lift and the 33" wheels the rig really needs a higher ratio for the ring and pinon. The jump from 1st to 2nd is pretty big too. Got speedometer pretty close but the odometer still reads low.

Really enjoying watching your project. Good luck.

 

i saw the pics of your rv, that thing is bad ass! ill be lucky to get my rig that clean some day.
i was trying to run the gas model radiator, but it would have to get a bit more custom. i got the clutch bled, gonna bleed the brakes tomorrow. i would really like to get the truck at least drivable so i can get it back to my house and work on it at my own time.

 

I can't take credit for the RV Rig Daniel. It was originally put togehter by a fellow who sold it to my son David. David had a 78 Chinook he stripped and sold for parts to redo it from the ground up. It was his creation including all the work to paint it with the epoxy paint. I have done some fix ups on wiring and added back some things David took out.

I notice that your engine has a different radiator setup. That radiator has no radiator cap so the only radiator cap is on the thermostat assembly. Here is the was the RV is set up.


Do you have a diesel instrument cluster. I messed up ours and had a tough time finding a replacement. You can get along without one by using after-market gauges. I think it is nice having the pyrometer, boost and oil pressure gauges. Alternator voltage is nice too but only because the rig has an auxiliary battery on an isolator. IF you do install an EGT I will be anxious to hear how your exhaust temperatures read for comparison.

 

i got the same set up, just not as clean.. if you look at the first pic of the thread its an identical setup.

 

yes i do. if you see from the video with all my dash lights lit up you can see, the turbo lights, glow plug, timing belt.. i had to use the full dash harness from the doner to make the swap possible.

 

does anyone have any idea where i could find an oil pan for the 2lt motor?
or even if i could modify one , say from a 22re?

 

Great swap. Love to do this to my 86 Truck

 

you prob most the one on the motor if your good with cutting and welding, im not sre if the 22re oil pan and the 2lt oil pan would match

 

i did a boost leak test on it the other day and i got a leak from the rotted pan. if i cant find one i may have my buddy tig me one.

 

Toyota part number is 12101-54132.

 

http://vpizza.org/~jmeehan/toyotadiesel/


Oil Pan
Several different oil pans were used on the L-series diesel engines, depending on what type of vehicle they were going into. 4x4 vehicles had an oil pan (aka sump) that was specially shaped to clear the front differential. Also there are some differences between oil pans that were used on independent front suspension (IFS) vehicles and solid front axle (SFA) vehicles.

If you're swapping into a 2WD vehicle, you may be able to get away with whatever oil pan came with your engine. If you're swapping into a 4x4, and your engine is from a sedan or 2WD truck, you'll need to get the correct 4x4 oil pan, or modify the 2WD oil pan so that it clears the front diff and/or suspension.

If you want to go the modification route, some tips are here:

http://www.toyotadiesel.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1415




Really though, getting the correct factory oil pan is highly recommended.

4x4 oil pan for IFS trucks 12101-54132 (ND)
Oil pan gasket 12151-54020 (ND)
Oil pickup tube (aka strainer) 15104-54130 (UF)
Pickup tube gasket 15149-54030 (ND)

If you get the oil pan and pickup tube from an overseas dismantler, here's a picture to help you and them identify the right ones:

http://vpizza.org/~jmeehan/photo/dat...0/IMG_0342.JPG

 

what year/model does this come in? U.S. spec 2lt 4wd?

 

that part number doesnt work, by vin the pan is discontinued.

 

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/ind...&siteid=214311


New part number 1210154133

4x4 oil pan for IFS trucks

One more hope this helps

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/198...up=LUBRICATION

 

from the diagram the pan looks different then mine. will this clear my solid front?

 

well 3 different sites and they seem to use the same parts catalog, discontinued by make model. its possible that there are no more factory pans left. still gotta check on availability of the ifs pan.