84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

85 22R refuses to idle

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Old 07-01-2013, 06:13 PM
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85 22R refuses to idle

Hey Fellow forum members. I have been using this forum since I got my truck in May finally registered, now that my new to me truck decided to crap out stranding me 200 miles from home.

A little back history, my truck is an 85 4x4 with a 22R. 190,000 miles. Previous owner changed the cat before I got it so it would pass CA smog. Carb, distributor, plug wires, heater hoses and most vacuum hoses were replaced. Ran perfectly fine before Saturday night. It would want to stall occasionally when stopped at a light when cold, but usually only once per drive, and not every time.

I was driving home, doing about 50 when the truck starts bogging down, engine was hesitating, pulled it over and refused to start unless I was giving it at least 1/2 throttle. Took 7 hours waiting for a damn to truck and finally got it towed back to my dads house. And now I am stuck here until I can figure it out.

I have been using a downloaded FSM and a Chilton guide I bought at my local auto parts store. From there I have eliminated a few possible issues.

I do not believe it is a fuel supply issue. I first replaced the fuel filter as it was the easiest and most simple issue. There are no bends or cracks in the fuel lines, checked from engine bay back to tank, all are in excellent condition. There is also fuel in the carb window in range of what is said to be acceptable in the FSM and Chilton guide. The truck also seems to run very rough, but will run with the accelerator at least 1/4 depressed. So i think I have ruled out the entire insufficient fuel supply to Carb section of the FSM.

I have checked all the Vacuum hoses, all seem to be perfectly fine.

I pulled all of my plugs, all are in good condition, but smell like raw gas. Could they not be getting a good spark? Could it be my ignition? How would I check that?

I have run a dozen or so searches, I cant find anything the pertains directly to my situation. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Old 07-02-2013, 01:26 PM
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OK, well the verdict is in. Finally just gave in and took it to a shop. I figured getting back to home, where triple digit weather is only found in an oven is worth the money.

Previous owner had replaced my carb. Well, he did a poor job picking one out and installing it. My jets are clogged and some other things as well and it is going to need a complete tear down and rebuild. The garage is saying that this carb is going to be an issue for me in the future and in the long run is going to be best to replace.

So my question to the forum has changed, what carb should I go with? I am seeing quite a few on my search results, but I do not trust reviews on the sales sites. Any advice would be appreciated.
Old 07-02-2013, 02:08 PM
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Weber 32/36. You can remove all but one of the vacuum lines with the upgade, you get more power, better responsiveness, and they are far easier to tune. If you buy a kit it will generally come with the two adapter plates to mate up with the stock intake as well as a new air cleaner. You will have to use the throttle connection from off of the stock carburetor but will not have to modify or change the throttle cable itself. I had one on my 20R/22R hybrid. With the proper tuning it ran great, emission tests would come back without measurable amounts during state required testing.
Old 07-02-2013, 08:41 PM
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Well since you hinted at the truck needing a cat to pass Ca. Smog I'm gonna assume you're here in Ca.

I don't think you can use the Weber here. I'm kinda in the same boat though my truck has no problem running I bought a carb rebuild kit at Napa and am going to make it my weekend project. I watched some videos on YouTube and now that I have less confidence I'm going to tackle this 'sucka!

Misery loves company. Why don't you rebuild yours also?

Matt
Old 07-02-2013, 09:12 PM
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you can go to a salvage yard and pickup up a stock carb and have the shop rebuild it. so you can still pass emissions and back to stock.
Old 07-03-2013, 01:42 PM
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I don't think you can use the Weber here. I'm kinda in the same boat though my truck has no problem running I bought a carb rebuild kit at Napa and am going to make it my weekend project. I watched some videos on YouTube and now that I have less confidence I'm going to tackle this 'sucka!
I was worried about the Weber and California smog, Damn. I was really starting to like what I was reading about Weber carbs.

The Shop i took the carb to is in the process of rebuilding my carb. Problem is that the Previous owner somehow left some parts out when he installed the carb, how it ran for this long without these parts, I do not know.

I am in the town of El Dorado, which is not known for having much variety in the way of shops or salvage yards. The closest salvage yard is about 50 miles from where I am now, and without a running vehicle to get there I am completely boned, My truck is my daily driver. And I was hoping to get back home for the 4th. But the shop needs the parts the PO left out to complete the rebuild. The only place local that has the part is closed until Friday.
When I get back to the bay area I am going to have a few words with the previous owner.
Old 07-03-2013, 09:37 PM
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There was a member here that bought on eBay a Chinese made clone Aisan carburetor, I believe last year. He stated prior to buying it that the carburetor itself had been getting good reviews, I believe on a 4wd forum, maybe IH8MUD or 4x4WIRE. When the thread was running he stated after he installed it that it was running well. The Chinese carburetor still had all the correct vacuum ports for us here in California to connect all the smog related components.

I would say either rebuild what you have, like what you are doing now, or try researching "Chinese carburetor" or "ebay carburetor" or something like that on this site.

Last edited by slow-mo; 07-03-2013 at 09:39 PM.
Old 07-04-2013, 12:18 AM
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Parts left out of the carb and it runs. ... I doubt it. Get your rig back from the Shop and order a carb rebuild kit . Simple stuff and if there's any doubts, look at the diagram or online.
Old 07-04-2013, 12:21 AM
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Well I can't edit (our don't knOw how on my phone) it sounds like the shop is trying to screw you. Can't get the parts, are you kidding me? I worked at a shop in a town with 80 people in it. We could get ANY part by the next day. They're bs ing you.
Old 07-04-2013, 08:20 PM
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There was a member here that bought on eBay a Chinese made clone Aisan carburetor, I believe last year. He stated prior to buying it that the carburetor itself had been getting good reviews, I believe on a 4wd forum, maybe IH8MUD or 4x4WIRE. When the thread was running he stated after he installed it that it was running well. The Chinese carburetor still had all the correct vacuum ports for us here in California to connect all the smog related components.

I would say either rebuild what you have, like what you are doing now, or try researching "Chinese carburetor" or "ebay carburetor" or something like that on this site.
I will have to check that out. I have had some good experience with some Chinese parts and some bad. I had a Quad and Dirt bike that were Chinese knock offs from a trade show in Vegas. The Quad ran great for a few months, when it needed new parts the company was unreachable and I could not find replacement parts that I needed. Finally just sold the damn thing. The dirt bike was from a different Chinese company, when it needed repair I had no issues finding the parts. I will look into the Carbs and the company, problem is I have a hard time trusting reviews online when they are so incredibly easy to fake. You can buy positive reviews for fairly cheap. There are companies that do just that.

Thanks for the info, I will look into the Aisn clones though. Hopefully its all legit.

Parts left out of the carb and it runs. ... I doubt it. Get your rig back from the Shop and order a carb rebuild kit . Simple stuff and if there's any doubts, look at the diagram or online.
Well I can't edit (our don't knOw how on my phone) it sounds like the shop is trying to screw you. Can't get the parts, are you kidding me? I worked at a shop in a town with 80 people in it. We could get ANY part by the next day. They're bs ing you.
I do have some doubts as to what the shop is telling me as far as parts being missing. How this thing ran for nearly 1,000 miles from when I got, it to this week when this problem came up. Seems strange to me. i am going to have to get the entire story when I go see them tomorrow.
I have never been to this shop myself. My step mom and her family have taken their cars here for some time and trust their opinions, I have seen to many people burned to trust any mechanic. Will have to see tomorrow what they have to say.

As for not being able to get the parts I am a little more understanding. The shop they were trying to contact was closed on the 3rd. They said they needed to get another core for the parts they need. When asked them on the phone what the issue was I heard the mechanic say compensator and adjustment screw. And an issue with the throttle body.

You may have been able to get the parts you needed in the town you were in, but not all little towns are well stocked on various parts, I can cut them some slack on this one.

When I talked to them they also confirmed that it was dumping raw fuel. After running searches I have seen some likely causes, but not one I can be sure of. And the only compensator I can find is an Idle compensator, which from what I have read is not on most 22R Carbs.

Will just have to see tomorrow what the story from the mechanic is. I am definitely not going to walk in and start accusing them of being full of ˟˟˟˟e. I only like to do that when I am 100% sure that they are lying. Last thing I want to do is go off on them and end up being misinformed.

Will have to wait until tomorrow. At this point I am so sick of being in an unfurnished house almost 200 miles from home over a holiday weekend I am willing to just say to hell with it.
Old 07-05-2013, 08:30 PM
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Surprise surprise, the truck was not done today. Called the shop and the receptionist was saying that they still could not find the part they needed, the local carb shop was still closed and they could not send someone down to the pick and pull in Ranch Cordova, told me I should try and get it.

Asked them to send a pic of the diagram they were going off of with what i need circled. Well, the parts they could not find were the pieces that make up the Idle compensator. I explained to two different people at the shop that the idle compensator is not found in the 85 carb, that it was on the older 22R carbs but not an 85, but the space for the compensator is still on the carb. The mechanic said he would put it all back together and see if it will run.

Long story short I am getting back a running truck for the price of a carb rebuild kit. They felt rather foolish after looking for a non existent part for nearly a damn week and are comping the labor.

If only they had confirmed a week ago what they were trying to replace.
Old 09-19-2013, 05:51 PM
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What was the final outcome? Truck running good now?
Old 09-20-2013, 04:45 PM
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It has taken me a while to get the money to pay for a rebuilt engine which was $1250.00 and the install cost of $850.00. I paid for the engine today and visited the shop that is doing the install. Hopefully I will have my truck back by next Wednesday. After over 2 months of no truck I am really excited to get back on the road.
Old 09-26-2013, 06:39 PM
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Got the truck back today.

I ended up needing a new clutch, flywheel, shift ford, throwout bearings and a dozen other random parts. So the $850.00 discounted install price got all the way up to the 1250.00 they charge people who did not get the new engine from the affiliated shop...surprise, surprise. I really can not complain too much though. I knew a 28 year old truck I bought on CL that died 28 days after I bought it was not going to be a mechanical gem.

The truck runs better than it did when I bought it. There is a 500 mile break in period, and until that time I can not confirm, but I think the truck will now break 80 on an incline. I really wanted to test it but can not afford to void my warranty at this point.

I wanted to install the engine myself but am not confident in my ability to do this job right. Plus I would have spent nearly half of the install cost on new tools that I would need to do the work. Plus I like the fact I got a years warranty on the labor.

When I went to pick the truck up the shop did warn me that I would need a new slave cylinder for my clutch. And that I would need to some work on my front suspension. That I am confident in handling myself after reading up on a few dozen threads on this forum.

For those in the bay area I got the engine from Independent Toyota Dismantlers in San Jose. And the shop that did the install was SOS automotive, also in San Jose. I am fairly happy with both businesses that I worked with on this. If anything goes wrong you guys will be the second group of people to know.
Old 09-26-2013, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by scottt80
What was the final outcome? Truck running good now?
Damn, I must have made another thread after getting the verdict from the first shop. After first shop had it for a week they call and tell me the Head gasket was blown. I was ready to hitch hike the 200 miles back home to make the person who sold me the truck and his family into a human centipede with staples and epoxy.

After weighing my options I just decided to go with a new engine on my truck. It was the most cost effective route I could take that would also give me some peace of mind that my truck would not be boned another month or two down the road.
Old 09-26-2013, 06:47 PM
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Glad you got your truck repaired.
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