260 cam and igniting timing question.
#2
It's been a few years since I built 22RE's. My son had a 260 cam and I had a 270 back when Engnbldr sold parts. I think the cams used stock valve lash of .008" intake and .012" exhaust. If not, use what the cam card says. I always like to set my valves at .007" and .011" to quiet them down a little. Ignition timing I always set to where it ran the best. Just a bit more advanced than stock. Just make sure there is no detonation.
This is just my way and I never had any trouble. Many more opinions out there.
This is just my way and I never had any trouble. Many more opinions out there.
#3
It's been a few years since I built 22RE's. My son had a 260 cam and I had a 270 back when Engnbldr sold parts. I think the cams used stock valve lash of .008" intake and .012" exhaust. If not, use what the cam card says. I always like to set my valves at .007" and .011" to quiet them down a little. Ignition timing I always set to where it ran the best. Just a bit more advanced than stock. Just make sure there is no detonation.
This is just my way and I never had any trouble. Many more opinions out there.
This is just my way and I never had any trouble. Many more opinions out there.
#4
I would set lash as per the cam card. As far as timing, I always tried advancing it in increments and made sure it didn't detonate/ping. Especially here in AZ in the summer heat. What works for me, might not be good for others. You have to consider your use, climate and even elevation. Find out what works best for you. Without a dyno all you can do is see how it feels and runs for you the way you use it.
If it bucks when you start it, it's too advanced. Same if it pings/detonates under load. A few degrees over spec for me always started quick, idled smooth and at least felt like it had more pep. Even with a stock engine.
I also preferred NGK or Denso plugs, OEM cap and rotor and plug wires. NGK wires seemed to work well too. You'll notice the little stuff that makes a difference if you pay attention to it. I use a lot of Denso parts and avoid the cheap parts store stuff.
Good luck with your truck.
If it bucks when you start it, it's too advanced. Same if it pings/detonates under load. A few degrees over spec for me always started quick, idled smooth and at least felt like it had more pep. Even with a stock engine.
I also preferred NGK or Denso plugs, OEM cap and rotor and plug wires. NGK wires seemed to work well too. You'll notice the little stuff that makes a difference if you pay attention to it. I use a lot of Denso parts and avoid the cheap parts store stuff.
Good luck with your truck.
#5
I would set lash as per the cam card. As far as timing, I always tried advancing it in increments and made sure it didn't detonate/ping. Especially here in AZ in the summer heat. What works for me, might not be good for others. You have to consider your use, climate and even elevation. Find out what works best for you. Without a dyno all you can do is see how it feels and runs for you the way you use it.
If it bucks when you start it, it's too advanced. Same if it pings/detonates under load. A few degrees over spec for me always started quick, idled smooth and at least felt like it had more pep. Even with a stock engine.
I also preferred NGK or Denso plugs, OEM cap and rotor and plug wires. NGK wires seemed to work well too. You'll notice the little stuff that makes a difference if you pay attention to it. I use a lot of Denso parts and avoid the cheap parts store stuff.
Good luck with your truck.
If it bucks when you start it, it's too advanced. Same if it pings/detonates under load. A few degrees over spec for me always started quick, idled smooth and at least felt like it had more pep. Even with a stock engine.
I also preferred NGK or Denso plugs, OEM cap and rotor and plug wires. NGK wires seemed to work well too. You'll notice the little stuff that makes a difference if you pay attention to it. I use a lot of Denso parts and avoid the cheap parts store stuff.
Good luck with your truck.
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