1987 runner, no start, just click
#1
1987 runner, no start, just click
well i tried searching, but i just completley stink at searching and couldnt find anything.
i have a 87 runner DLX that wont start,
good plugs cap rotor
brand new alternator
all good fuses
when i go to start it, it just clicks.
on the dash, the speedometer works and high beams work, thats it, no emergency brake light, no fasten seat belt light, no thermostat gauge, and no gas gauge. the radio turns on and off, the clock fades and comes back.
we took the alternator down and had it tested and it passed, we tested it at home with a vlotimeter and it was putting out exactlly what it was taken in, so we thought maybe it was defective so we took it back and got a brand new one, same thing, putting out what its taking in.
mines putting out 12.5
and my brothers 87 runner was putting out like 13.9
any help would be greatly appreciated.
and any questions just ask.
i have a 87 runner DLX that wont start,
good plugs cap rotor
brand new alternator
all good fuses
when i go to start it, it just clicks.
on the dash, the speedometer works and high beams work, thats it, no emergency brake light, no fasten seat belt light, no thermostat gauge, and no gas gauge. the radio turns on and off, the clock fades and comes back.
we took the alternator down and had it tested and it passed, we tested it at home with a vlotimeter and it was putting out exactlly what it was taken in, so we thought maybe it was defective so we took it back and got a brand new one, same thing, putting out what its taking in.
mines putting out 12.5
and my brothers 87 runner was putting out like 13.9
any help would be greatly appreciated.
and any questions just ask.
#3
12.5 ain't enough, bro! you'll need high 13 to 14 for a good alt. so the alt may not be recharging your battery at all.
but the alt doesn't start your car, the batt does. alt just charges back. so if it doesn't start, you need to look to battery first. did you try swapping in a different battery that you knew was full charge? you may need to trickle charge that battery, or replace if you've got a dead cell within. if your batt and alt prove to be ok, then look to switches that prohibit start, such as clutch pedal switch, or even ignition switch.
but the alt doesn't start your car, the batt does. alt just charges back. so if it doesn't start, you need to look to battery first. did you try swapping in a different battery that you knew was full charge? you may need to trickle charge that battery, or replace if you've got a dead cell within. if your batt and alt prove to be ok, then look to switches that prohibit start, such as clutch pedal switch, or even ignition switch.
#4
12.5 ain't enough, bro! you'll need high 13 to 14 for a good alt. so the alt may not be recharging your battery at all.
but the alt doesn't start your car, the batt does. alt just charges back. so if it doesn't start, you need to look to battery first. did you try swapping in a different battery that you knew was full charge? you may need to trickle charge that battery, or replace if you've got a dead cell within. if your batt and alt prove to be ok, then look to switches that prohibit start, such as clutch pedal switch, or even ignition switch.
but the alt doesn't start your car, the batt does. alt just charges back. so if it doesn't start, you need to look to battery first. did you try swapping in a different battery that you knew was full charge? you may need to trickle charge that battery, or replace if you've got a dead cell within. if your batt and alt prove to be ok, then look to switches that prohibit start, such as clutch pedal switch, or even ignition switch.
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