I never thought of the harmonic balancer as a wearable part. Any idea how much they run and would a junk yard part be okay?

 

i never knew they could spin out of time either I have 5 of them in my garage LOL

 

Good news. The truck fired right up and idled smooth.
Bad news I got a code 11 and yes fixing the adjustment on the TPS did bring back the function of the jumper.

I got a heck of a lot of crap out of the upper intake. Had it off and used a large bottle brush and 2 cans of carb cleaner plus a screwdriver and was even able to get the bottle brush into the lower intake.

The throttle body cleaned up real nice. I took some 1200 grit sandpaper to the inside where there was some pitting and build up. Took little pipe cleaners to all the ports and pipes.

I didn't polish anything like some of you guys and it looks worse (dirtier) than before I started. Just the top that is.
Gonna go look for the code chart now. I'm sure 4Crawler has one posted somewhere.

 

Diagnostic code chart link on the web page below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector

 

So now with code 11, what I read there are 6 possibilities. It seems like they are listed in order of cost, low to high with the ECU being the last ditch effort. I'm sure it won't go that far.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...osticcodes.gif

Is there anything I can do to reset the EFI? I've heard of this on other threads but don't know if it applies to my year. Does that need to be done with adjusting a way out TPS? I moved it about 3/16"

Like I mentioned earlier the diagnostic jumper works again but didn't before todays work.
I didn't open the AFM seal or go into that at all except for cleaning with AFM cleaner.
I pulled the neg cable for 10 minutes and rechecked for codes and still have the code 11.
I'm not sure what to go after next. Any suggestions?

 

I woud bet that your throttle position sensor is bad, my cousin had this same problem on his 86 4Runner a couple of months ago, wit a code 11 and it turned out to be the throttle position sensor. once it was replaced the code went away and his truck ran perfect again.

 

A harmonic balancer can spin on the rubber ring causing the timming marks to be off, the way to tell if the balancer is good or not is to look at the key way thats cut into the balancer were it slides over the crank shaft and then look at the timming mark on the balancer, they should line up with each other, if they don`t then the balancer is bad.

 

Thanks. It looks like I'll have to take the bolt off to see where the key is and compare it to the timing notch.
Do you know if this bolt is left or right hand thread?

 

It should be standard thread, counter clockwise to loosen.

 

Heres a thought, and this is because I have a hard time replacing parts that WORK FINE.
What if I actually put a notch exactly where the keyway is and maybe even color it white so it looks like the timing mark. Would that work in theory to check and set timing?
And shouldn't that fool the smog guy? My truck could then be properly timed and no one has to know that my timing mark isn't factory.

 

Could this work or do you think the harmonic balancer pieces are "floating" around each other constantly changing?

 

Code 7 now. Replacing the TPS

 

New TPS is in and adjusted. I got a code 1 and was bummed out until I looked at the chart and:

CODE 1--Normal operation !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm so happy I'm giddy.

Thanks you guys for all the help. I am stoked! I was worried about the whole TPS thing but with 4Crawler's troubleshooting and adjustment tips I feel like a pro.

And I did it with the credit and gift cards for feeler guages! I'm keeping those leftover cards in my tool box. I think they worked better than the actual feeler guages because of room constraints. Super light weight too when cut into a narrow strip.

Allen head bolts were a great tip too.

Thank you thank you thank you

Now for a test drive since I have no code problems. YES!

 

Smooth idle.
Better off the line and accelerating through the gears.
Haven't taken it up to freeway speeds yet.

One problem though, I tried to adjust the idle down and bottomed out the screw.

If I adjust the stop screw that hits the dashpot(?) will I have to re adjust the TPS?

 

You will probably need to make a small adjustment to the TPS, but make a small adjustment to the idle first and see how it does, and then go from there.

 

What is the best way to lower the idle if the idle adjusting screw is bottomed out?
Dashpot?
Idle stop screw?

 

Best to start from scratch, set throttle plate fully closed and then turn that stop screw in to contact the linkage and 1/4 turn more, lock in place. Then adjust TPS based upon that throttle closed position. The DP does not affect idle speed:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri....shtml#Dashpot

Then if timing is proper (5 BTDC) and the idle air screw is all the way in and idle too fast, look for an air/vacuum leak some place.

 

Will do. Thanks

 

I see that this spring is sprung. This could affect the idle I suppose.
That is the dashpot behind the spring.

 

Yep, that is the DP behind the spring. I replaced my throttle spring with a heavier one.