yup yup

 

hmmmm....... thinks. ......

edit, is it possible the clutch is somehow mis adjusted to where he thinks it's in all the way and it's not leading the motor to stall?

I am gonna assume no since he doesn't mention any shifting issues.

 

It was alot worse but today I finally hooked up my manifold and port vaccum advance lines to the distributor. This corrected most of it. I then retimed, retuned carb, and set the idle at 1100 rpms, now it only wants to stall under very heavy braking. I think you are right, I think it is a problem of the fuel delivery/float assembly. I have a mr gasket electric pump hooked up dead head, and the returns blocked off. I am installing a holley fuel pressure regulator, and a guage now. if not this then I guess its on to float adjustment, and re jetting. Ill keep you posted thanks for the help.

 

it happens when coasting into hard braking in nuetral so I dont think its the clutch, but I could be wrong.

 

Well got the fuel pressure regulated at 4 psi. Seems to be the magic number. Still running a little rich. Still stalls during hard braking. I am guessing the floats but I dont know, thanks for the help....

 

I doubt this is the problem, but do you have 2 lines going to the distributor or 1? should only be one from the port on the carb to the port on the distributor that is closest to the radiator. the other port is not used anymore on the weber carb.

 

The ported vacuum on the weber is ran to the outermost distributor vaccum connection. Then I ran another from the manifold to the other hookup. Set the timing and all appears to be good, except that it still runs a bit rich, and the engine stalls or hesitates when braking going forward or in reverse.

 

that other line is not supposed to be hooked up. that side retards timing when vaccuum is applied. if hooked to str8 manifold vac then your defeating the purpose of the vac advance. try removing and pluging that up.

p.s. I just had a sputtering/bogging problem with mine and it was the brand new e3 plugs I just put in.

 

Lmfao. That's the first thing I thought when I saw the title.

Hope you guys solve your problems though...

 

I dont think it has anything to do with the clutch. I have been driving stick for 13 years. It happens in nuetral, forward motion, as well as reverse ( I thought it wasnt occuring in reverse earlier but I was incorrect) I tried plugging the vacuum advance from the manifold, and just using the ported....it ran way worse.

 

Forgot to mention that the truck had the same issue before the motor swap...

 

I don't know nature that's how I have mine set up. As well as everyone else I know running the weber. when you set the timing you set it with those hoses disconnected to the distributor right?

I just had a similar issue and I had to replace the brand new e3 plugs I had just bought, ran like donkey doo doo but wasn't brake pedal related like you and the OP's.

 

I just ordered the jet kit for the 32/36. Was hoping someone could point me in the right direction as for what would be some recommended jet sizes for my system. The engine mods are a northwest header (N21800), headers, weber 32/36. The guys at redline said I need to increase my idle jet size for sure, I have never done this. Thanks for your time. Im at 200-2500 feet in elevation.

 

how many turns is your idle mixture screw set to?

 

I can turn the screw all the way in and it does not die. so I back it off about 1.75 turns and leave it for now. It pretty much is unaffected until you get to about 4-6 turns out.

 

hmmm that's odd that it doesn't die. turning it in I believe means you are leaning out the mixture. So your saying the best idle you get is when it's at 1.75 turns out? that's within the 2 turns required for a bigger jet. Mines at about 1.5 turns but just pulling my plugs it runs just a tad lean. so I opened mine up to about 2 turns. runs pretty good now, but I will check the plugs after a few days driving it this way. I have a 268 cam, downey header, 30 over rebuild with fresh crank, rods and and a 30 thous shaved block (not head) and have not re timed the cam to crank after the block shave. need a cam gear from LCE.

and usually when t does not affect anything turning that screw it means you have a vacuum leak somewhere. which also explains why you have symptoms of needing bigger jets.

 

OK . . found out that using a Mr Gasket at 5-7 psi with a holley regulator is actually cutting too much volume. . . . going to buy the carter pump - here tell they dont need a regulator for the 32/36 . . . . XXXtreme you was correct. . I plugged that manifold vaccum to the inner distributor port and put premium in it/retime-retune . .. shazaaam! Thou shalt not stall whilst braking. Im waiting on a larger idle jet. going to learn how to drop the floats a little, while doing the mod on the bowl drain . . .. XXXtreme you is da man.

 

you might be right on that volume cutting, a carter with the regulator is the only way to go, but it's probably it's just that crappy mr gasket pump. I almost went that route, but decided against it and kept the factory mechanical pump on it. Webers actually only require 3-4 psi to run correctly (some say 2-3psi) and the float level is why you need to stay in those parameters. Any higher than that, it's possible that the extra pressure will shove too much fuel into the bowl and cause the float level to be higher. This is why I and many off-roaders drop their fuel pressure to 1.5-2 psi when wheeling to fray from flooding and stalling out the motor on of-camber trails and rocks.

Keep in mind because of that volume cut you might not need the bigger jet(s) because what you might be doing is draining out the float bowl under heavy load which may give a false indication that the carb is running lean even though it is not.

 

nature, did you find that only putting premium stopped the stalling issue?

mine idles rough and the mixture screw seems to do nothing, i put premium in it but to no avail. also my brand new idle cutoff solenoid seems to do nothing. when i brake while moving foward she stalls and dies, but when i am rolling backward and hit the brakes it smooths out and runs better.

i am running the stock mechanical pump with no regulator.

 

usually when the idle mixture screw does nothing it indicates a vacuum leak from somewhere.