Hallsie

How goes it all? Long story short i used to own a 1988 toyota pickup 4wd xtra cab. 7 inches lift. bedliner. paint. stereo. header. 33s. rims. the works and like a idiot sold it to buy a bike while i was stationed out in nebraska in 2004. Then the other day came across a random deal for a 1982 toyota pickup 4wd in pretty good condition but been sitting for about 6 years. Has 100,000 original miles. One owner if u can believe it. Bought it for 1500. Anyways im ditching the bed for a flatbed. Got a buddy at a fab shop getting me an estimate now. Tires are on order. Bf goodrich 265 70 15. Cleaning up the aftermarket wheels that were on it. Gonna be spraying plastidip on it if u know what im talking about. What i need some help on is what do i need to do to an engine thats been sitting that long. Im replacing all fluids of course but what else from there. Will try to get pictures soon. Thanks all

slacker

iTrader: (1)

Welcome to the site ....

are you selling the bed ? or is it toast ?

I could use some of the "hardware" if your just chuckin it out .. i'll pay any freight , if you can help


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Hallsie

Im no stranger to body work to include bondo, fiberglass, and such so i would say no the bed is not toast but it needs a good bit of tlc. It had a tool box in it so it has two holes on both back sides in the floor but the rest of the bottom of the bed is good. Some pitting and surface rust on the rest and one dent i think on the front passenger side. The tailgate is pretty good too but a little beat up as well. Would completely depend on how much time u wanted to spend and how good u are at body work. And to be completely honest ive never even thought about the ins and outs of going about shipping a truck bed. lol. I live in cochran, georgia

Hallsie

Just to add though whatever i dont use would be free to whoever wants and or needs it.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

I'm not interested in the complete bed , only the fuel filler door , and the tail gate hinges . The actual hinges that bolt the gate to the floor of the bed , you would actually have to cut the hinges out as they are spot welded in , and I will pay you for them .
I can send a picture , PM me if you want to help me out , as i dont want to "plug" up your thread with this



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83pingpong

'82 100k $1500? Pics? Welcome to yotaland. You'll find all levels of fab expertise here, and some excellent builds.

Sounds like the fun is just beginning for you. Any word from PO whether it was "running"? One strategy to make sure the valves are oiled for first start is to drain the oil (cold), if it looks OK, pour it fast into the filler to drench the topend just before cranking. If it is stubborn, air in the fuel line, or whatnot. Open the throat of the carb and spray a tiny amount of starting fluid in there (NOT much!). Just getting it to fire and start pumping fuel and oil is the beginning of getting it back to where it was when it was shut down.

Pics?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Let me know if you plan on selling that bed, I'd be interested as well, but don't hack off the tailgate hinges and fuel door (sorry Corey!). I'd be able to come down to GA to pick it up too. What's this truck look like? How about some pics?

Hallsie

Let me see if i can catch up. First things first slacker i was talking about body work earlier and got a chance to check out ur supertoy build and see that ur skills far exceed my own. lol. big fan of the build by the way. Second i hate to retract my previous statement of giving stuff away for free but i needed some wheels and tires being as the ones that were on there were shot so i spent a good while cleaning up the old wheels and spraying them with a couple coats of duplicolor truck bed armor. Then dropped 680 bucks on some bfg rugged terrains at discount tire. Also the local fab shop called and said that it was gonna cost 1000 bucks to make the flat bed i want so id like to get a little something for the bed and extra parts to go torward the flatbed idea. I apologize but hindsight is 20/20. Yes its and 82 with 101,000 miles for 1500. still has the manual brochures and window sticker when he bought it new in 1982. never thought id see a one owner toyota. I plan on changing all the fluids, battery, filters, plugs, etc but wasnt sure if i needed to take the valve cover off to oil it that way. Somebody else told me to put a little oil in the spark plug holes???? The pictures i will try to get today when i head over to throw the new tires and wheels on. Getting back to the bed and stuff im guessing it would be alot easier for someone to pick up then try to ship it. Make me an offer or pm me. A little rusty with all this forum stuff so bear with me and if i havent said it already thanks to all for the advice and help now and in the future. Ive got a 4 year old boy and a 4 month old girl so the time i used to have to figure stuff out is short nowadays. I will prolly be searching the crap out of some old threads. Hope everyone has a good weekend.

Hallsie

a few pics. maybe this will work.

Hallsie

one more

Hallsie

for some reason the 3 pics i took of the bed failed to upload so will try again later. maybe something i did wrong. any suggestions?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Try using an image host like photobucket.com to upload them to.

Hallsie

http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...psfe0e6f7c.jpg
http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...psc0708113.jpg
http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9b605f9c.jpg

Hallsie

Thanks for the suggestion. never used photobucket before but the links work for me.

Hallsie

So i took this friday off and finally got some time to work on the yota. Did some of the basic tune up stuff. New battery. Put some new spark plugs and wires in. Air filter. Changed the oil and filter. Got the old homemade angle iron back bumper off. Took the spare tire and holder off. Would like to fab up something better to hold it so if anybody wants that old assembly more than welcome to it. Got the beat up valance panel off. Started to take the bumper off but the bolts were being a pain in the nuts so moved on to something else. Couple of questions though. The clutch has absolutely no play in the pedal. Tried bleeding the lines down by the slave cylinder but had no luck. Any suggestions? Also tried firing her up. She would turn over just fine but we found out that we were getting no fire. Had a spare coil from the previous owner so swapped it out. Still no fire. The distributor and cap looked good when i checked it so im guessing it might be the ignitor assembly up underneath the coil. Took it apart and find that the resistor was measuring O/L on the meter so got another one and soldered it in and still no spark. Called O reillys and advance auto parts and they say that part is 250 bucks. Any thoughts?

gmack192

I have 2 dist. coils & ignitor assy.

If you're interseted..They came off running trucks. I just pulled one last week. I went with a D.U.I. distributor.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

First check to make sure you have spark - use a spare spark plug and test each plug wire by touching it to a grounded surface while turning it over. If you have spark there then you can eliminate any major distributor or ignition issues. Next, check your timing - try having somebody turn the engine over while you twist the distributor. If you get it started, properly adjust the timing from there.

Next, make sure you are getting fuel to the carb. Grab an empty soda bottle and put the fuel hose from the fuel pump to the carb in the bottle to catch fuel when you turn the motor. If your getting fuel there then you MAY not be getting fuel to the cylinders which will require more investigate and possibly a carb rebuild. Check for vacuum leaks as well.

You might want to post some good pictures of that engine bay. We all see a lot of 22R motors and might see something that you are missing.

Hallsie

Thank u for the help kawa. I tried taking the wire off the coil that goes to the distributor and checking the spark there and didnt have any. If theres not any there i didnt think there would be any at the spark plugs but im not the best with the electronic side of things so i will go back and check ur suggestion. It reeked of fuel everytime we tried to check the spark so im guessing that part was good however im open to everything and eager to learn so will check that too as well as the distributor. To be honest i need to go ahead and drop the tank, drain it, clean it, and run the old gas out of the lines but just wanted to hear her start. Wont get a chance to try these things though until next weekend. I do have one question. Gmack was talking about switching to a dui distributor. Is that something that i should do as well instead of sticking with the old system? I may get off early from work tomorrow so i will try to get pics of the engine bay. Thanks all again

83pingpong

If the truck had been running when parked (even if running not that well), the most likely culprit is a fuel system issue. Kawa's suggestion to check for flow at the fuel pump output (connection to carb) is a good next step... but checking for spark is quick:

Pull a plug, reattach the spark plug wire, pin the base of the plug on the block (use a screwdriver or something) and have someone turn it over while you watch it. The distributor needs to trigger and discharge the coil to see a spark. You should see AND hear a spark. It will happen even if the timing is way off.

It is easier to do the ignition conversion AFTER you get it running, only because if it is not running before you do the conversion, you can't be sure if you did the conversion right, or if the problem is the underlying problem you started with!

Of course, if it is not getting spark when you test it, you'll have to diagnose the problem or do the conversion anyway! Good luck.

Hallsie

Ah ha maybe thats why i wasnt getting at spark at the coil. i thought that the coil would show a spark just by taking off the main lead from the coil to the distributor and grounding it out to check spark. Didnt know the distributor would be what makes the coil fire. Live and learn. Will check the plug idea asap and see how that goes. Good point on the conversion pingpong. Thank u for the help. Im sure with all that bad gas thats in the lines and prolly gumming up the carb is one of my main problems also. So i will prolly go ahead and drop and drain tank and lines first then order a rebuild kit, install, then go from there.