Schnayke

iTrader: (1)

The first time it happened all power went, I got out and the battery negative cable was loose. so I tightened it and then it cranked and cranked and cranked but it won't start. Normally it starts on the first rev.
An hour or so later it starts, I figure it was flooded or something and go on my way.
It died again just about 10 min down the road. Got a tow back and started checking stuff, but everything seemed to be working but the coil/igniter. (no power coming from its wire to the distributor cap.)
so we went to a parts yard and got one, put it in same thing happend.

At this point I am just throwing money at it, if I can't find some ideas.
Do you figure I got a bad used part?

Maybe the toggle switch? even though everything else works through it just fine?

Can the pick up switch in the distributor cause this? (I can't figure out how too test it exactly.)

Its exactly like you turned the key off. But everything works. It just won't restart after that.
It just won't start, it turns over.

It won't start for a while after it turns off, and only runs for about 15 min. before it dies.

It turns over good, charges good.

we replaced the cap, and roter.

It has a toggle switch ignition. (been in for 7 years.)

It also has a webber carb,
I almost always can figure this stuff out, but I am stumped.
Any help would be so welcomed.

Schnayke

iTrader: (1)

Ok so we think it is the fuseable link. Does anybody know where to find it? I don't have a fuse box under the hood.
I know the factory service manuals are on this site some place, can anybody help me find them?

cr@ves4wheelin

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

tj884Rdlx

burnt fuses shouldn't be intermittent. once you've confirmed all your fuses are good with a testlight, i'd be checking relays next, particularly the one in front of the glove box, on the right.

but the point i wanted to mention is, if you're not familiar with the FSM, there is a pretty good troubleshooting section for the EFI, so be sure to find it, not just the wiring diags in the last pages. review that to make sure you're checking everything in order, not missing anything that's part of the circuit.

Schnayke

iTrader: (1)

thanks guys, my truck is actuly stuck right outside chico, CA, in rancho tahama, at my dads. Its by corning. funny that you are one of the people to help out cr@ves4wheelin

peow130

theres really not much to getting one of these engines to run..

you really need 12v power to the igniter, from a keyed point, then charge, and a switch to start to the truck, as well as gas..

so, check the grounds on the ignitor coil, and if all else fails, just run a wire to the - side of the battery.
next check to make sure the dizzy is getting spark, then check all 4 plug wires...

now, if that all checks out, check to make sure youre getting gas to your carb, and if it is, next check to make sure the gas is getting to the engine from the carb.

Schnayke

iTrader: (1)

Outside of running the wire too the negative battery terminal, we have done all those thing. It still starts on first rev, then runs 15 min, then turns off like you hit the key, no sputter, no idle down, just "click" off. Then it won't start for some time. That is why I am stumped, I know when that negative battery terminal fell off I blew something I just can't figure out what.
I forgot too add this but it burned a 30 amp fuse under the dash when it happened. I replaced the fuse and have tested it since. I never had the cover too the fuse box so I don't know what it went too, the factory service manual will help I hope. I sent it too my dad, I'm now too far away to do the work my self.

peow130

Well, you have a weber carb, right? Do you have a fuel pump attached to it, or do you run the stock pump?

Schnayke

iTrader: (1)

Ya' its the stock pump.
If the pump was quiting wouldn't idle down, or sputter too a stop? This runs full idle full power till no idle no power.
When it dies it acts like I shut off the key, and we stop getting electricty to the wire into the ignition.
The problem seems too be between the battery, and the ignition toggle switch. We hot wired it too see if it was the toggle but it did the same thing. So it's not the toggle switch. Power go's too all other wires when it quits.
My dads first thought was it was a clogged fuel filter, we pulled them and they flow fine. and then we checked too see if we where getting fuel into the carb, and we where. We didn't check too see if it was going into the cyclenders, but I'm not sure how too do that.
Then we went onto the electrical stuff. At this point I am fairly sure there is a problem between the battery and the ignition switch, but I just don't know where, and the only clue I have is there is suposed too be a fusable link in there somewhere, I am guessing is haveing a problem. But even that seems far fecteched since it is so consistant.

Robs Toynado

the fusable link is on the end of the wire on the positive wire it should be white and black. they have connectors on them. check them real good.

peow130

A fusible link won't be your problem, the only thing they do is act like a fuse when all your other fuses fail, and they just burn up..
If your fusible link blew, then you have other problems my friend.

Honestly, sounds like your truck has some sketchy wiring to begin with, and i'd be re-doing all of it.

tj884Rdlx

hah! plz disregard previous comments with the letters E, F, and I!

Schnayke

iTrader: (1)

Well now it is consistent, as it it just won’t start now. My dad can't figure it out, I may have a 1983 toyota close too chico, CA for parts soon. I'm so stressed about this, I have made my self sick, and now have vertigo from it all. Thanks for the help, but apparently none of it is working. I wish I was there so I could figure it out. I know there is almost nothing too check but I just can’t do the checking my self.

Schnayke

iTrader: (1)

so it ended up being an electrical part inside the distributer. There is really only one part in there, I just don't remember the name now. I thought I should update this post so it may help someone in the future.

83pingpong

It CAN be the fuel pump. Mine failed last Spring-it ran fine for a few minutes, and then died. It did this over and over. I thought it was electrical! Now that it is completely failed, it should be easier to diagnose actually. Have you checked to see that you have a nice blue spark at the plug wires? If so, I think it is a fuel issue. Swap your spare fuel pump. Like Peow sez, these old trucks are not too complicated. Spark, fuel, and enough power to turn over and it should run badly, at least! If a little fuel poured into the carbs starts it... fuel issue. try the pump ...Oh, if you have a can of starting fluid, try it (NOT MUCH-it causes detonation).

brianh699

Pickup Coil.

83pingpong

oooops! I read almost the whole thread and then ignored the last post in the thread before I posted. I guess it was NOT fuel related! DUH!

Glad you are back on the road