Finally got my engine rebuilt, we put it in and I've been running it for about a month or so and it's developed this strange noise that I don't want to call rod knock. I've been taking it easy, broke in the rings, didn't lug it after the first start, slowly increasing the revs but there is this knocking sound. It comes when the motor warms up but when you put a load on it the knocking goes away. I've got the ignition timing retarded pretty far but I don't know what's causing this sound. I had a shop here in town bore the block .030, new rod and crank bearings. It's got a comp cam in it with an stock carb. What is this sound?

 

Also, when I pulled the timing back, the sound didn't change much. A little less often, but still there for sure.

 

If your running a comp cam then you need to adjust your timing to correct deg. It very well could be preignition causing but I would pull your drain plug and check for metal and how much.

 

sounds like what im dealing with. knocks at partical throttle then step on it a little more and it goes away?

im being told to use a thicker oil like 15w40 or 20w50.

what grade oil is in your engine?

also have you had your vavles adjusted since you broke the motor in?

 

I adjusted the valves to .010 initally. Would that create a noise like pinging? I've been playing with the ignition timing and it doesn't seem to make much difference. And I've been using 5w-30 Quaker State.

 

same here, a little. im also being told to use 15w40 or 20w50. but for an entirely different reason. is it burning oil?

 

i was told to do it to see if my motor has rod knock. my motor does not burn oil.

cuz as you know when the motor heats up the oil thins which creates more bearing clearence.

try a little thicker oil and see what happens. i never run 5w30 i have always used 10w30. but newer motors usually are fine with 5w30 so i dont know.

if its a ticking i was told if your fuel pressure regulator is bad it makes a helluva ticking.

 

if its a 22r its gonna tick regardless. noisy motors.

 

for sure. run like mopeds

 

my 22r does not tick? although I think the exhaust manifold heat sheild makes noise sometimes lol is that common?

 

fresh 5w30, sound still there, ran the valves(some were off), sound still there, no oil in the metal... er metal in the oil. yeah no metal. it isn't the toyota tick, I know that much. maybe I need to get the evil out of there somehow.

 

latest: I tore the distributor apart, lubed the weights but one for them is looser than the other. I'm wondering would that make the advance bounce around? It was loose but could only move so far i.e. it wouldn't make the vacuum advance move but rather it was looser than the other weight.
It was the smaller ones closer to the center of the distributor. Does anyone have any ideas?
I've tried 85 octane, 89 octane and 91 octane. I've used the fine adjustment on the distributor, checked, rechecked, re-rechecked the timing using a light.
The timing shows as being at about 6 or so degrees BTDC now. I advanced it a little but the sound is not any different than it was before at 2 degrees.
I officially have no idea why this sound is here.

 

I have the same problem since i bought the truck, originally though it was the timing chain, tore that apart new chain new sprockets, new oil pump, new water pump new cover. same thing. does it on startup as well. At idle partial throttle mostly when warm. Then also does it at high rev when loaded, but mid rev when unloaded. ie when shifting gears mostly in the lower range through 1st and 2nd and 2nd and 3rd. I can't tell what rpm it seams to come in at since I don't have a tach. Also have an accompanying lighter metal "fluttering" and or "buzzing" sound which is new from when i bought it. Ive had the truck a year now did an oil change twice since ive had it. I dont put much mileage on it, but the drive to work is up a mountain which i have to use 4th gear for. when i get to the top of the mountain thats when the flttering kicks in really loud. seems to go away if i use the tranny to slow down and sometimes if i just hit the cluth. I've used a stethescope but cannot pin point it. Sounds to me like a rod knock or a really heavy diesel ping, but who knows. Someone I work with seems to think a rear main which i doubt since this bad boy of a crank is tied down from walking with 5 mains. I was beginning to think maybe a thrust bearing. Hopefully me or you find out what exactly this is.

P.S. I have been using nothing but 15W40 in the winter and now 20W50 in the summer.

 

Personally I use 5w30 in the summer and winter. These motors(22r and -re)do make a lot of valve noise. I don't know why, they just do. In my case, the motor was all torn down, bored .030, new pistons, rods, bearings, seals, new double row timing chain and host of other things that are new. I couldn't find the noise myself using the long screw driver method(I don't have a stethscope) so I took it in to a shop who told me it was a rod knock. Right now the whole truck it at the shop that did all of the machine work and built the bottom end so in a minute I'm going to call them and see what is up with it. I'm hoping(hoping hoping hoping hoping) that they got it resolved somehow and it was something minor that they did.
Is your motor rebuilt or no? My motor was sewing machine smooth before the rebuild.

 

I'm glad to hear they rebuilt the short block! I had the machine shop do mine, also. Hopefully they're straight with you and take responsibility if it was their mistake. I hope you get it all figured out! Nothing like a brand new engine giving you issues...but at least it may not be you who has to tear it apart again.

 

A lot of re builders don't like to build shortblocks anymore because they have no control how the oil pump and front cover are assembled. lack of oil during initial startup is another problem, If the engine isn't pre lubed before the first start lots of damage can occur.

 

No rebuild here that i know of I and definitely not recently. 172,000 miles and it has at least knocked the entire time I have had it. Which is around 6000-7000 miles.

 

the machine shop didnt actually rebuild my short block. they said they'd take responsibility on their end, if it actually was on their end but the guy swears up and down that it isn't a rod knock.
His opinion is it's a minor pre-detonation caused by air leaks in the carb. hmm
so I bought a rebuild kit for the carb, haven't gotten it done yet but they guy who did the rebuilding also said it got hot on him, the fan clutch is bad, the valves are loose(according to him).
It has never gotten near over heating on me, the fan clutch is good, and i already adjusted the valves 4 times since the rebuild. This guy is giving me the run around for sure. rrrrrrr

 

Well mine is confirmed rod bearing. #4 cylinder completely wiped this morning, and #2 is not too far behind. Here's a quick crappy photo of the crank, needless to say i had no bearing left in #4.

 

xxx, are you saying that't bad? I don't see the problem
I'm rebuilding my carb right now(one of them, I have two, I can get parts for my truck and drive it at the same time!) and I was going to get a bigger jet to accomadate the bigger cam. Thoughts?
BUT I don't know what size the stock jet is
does anyone?
It's a pretty mild cam so I was thinking go up one, maybe two sizes? any advice on that?