hey guys I've searched and came up empty on a good thread explaining some basics of starting an engine for the first time in like ten years. I have an 83 4x4 SR5 withe the 22r just put a used 32/36 weber carb on it that has no choke so i'm choking it manuely I put 5 gallons of fuel in the tank and dumped a little in the carb with some starting fluid. I also would like to know what vacuum lines are required for starting and running.
Thanks nate

 

The only vac. line you need is one from your vac. advance (end of the distributer) to the vac port on the weber. Plug off all the other vac lines. I did this on my weber and it runs great. If there was old gas in the tank you might want to put in some fuel stabilizer.

 

sweet that's what I was getting but I wanted to make sure....can you explain where that line of the distributor goes to on the carb, or pic possibly, and is it the port closest to the engine on the distributor vacuum?

 

For now I have both advance hoses hooked into my intake manifold and one line coming out into the carb. I have heard that you can just use the one nearest the motor, but I have not tried it yet. Facing the front of the truck, the lower left side of the carb has a vacume nipple, that is where you hook it up. I am not near my truck or I would take a pic for you.

 

here is what I did before I even cranked it over, it sat for 6+ years

- Changed the oil/filter
- Rebuilt the carb (at the time I was running a stock carb)
- Flushed the gas tank and fuel lines, replaced the fuel filters
- Checked the spark plugs/wires, they were in good shape
- Filled the coolant and power steering
- Charged the battery

It fired right up after I got the choke working, and then the problems came up.. My front main seal started spraying oil, it was crap from sitting for so long, timing was off a bit, carb still wasnt working right but no knocking or even ticking which was good!

 

thanks for the replies guys...i have found the port on the lower left side of the carb but there was no nipplie so i went to LOWE's and found a double sided brass nipple for 1/4'' tubing and sanded one side down untill it fit in the slot snug the i gave it a little tap with a hammer and am calling it good. .... can you tell me where your other advance line goes to in the intake.

 

I ran both into the manifold and then 1 from manifold into the carb. Then I pluged all the other ports.

 

heres a page I got off my weber install book

 

Couple other things you might want to do is change out the oil and turn the engine over by hand a few times to get the internals of the engine lubed a little before firing it up.

 

ran into a dead end I'm trying to adjust the valves cold....with the number 1 piston at TDC and both valves closed I have way too much slack between the rocker arm and valve spring causing me to drive the valve adjustment screw in so far that the nut can't be threaded???? this is also the case when we move to the 3rd piston at TDC....the clearance were trying to achieve is .0120

 

Make sure #1 piston is TDC on the compression stroke. Number 1 cylinder valves *should* be loose and number 4 will be tight. Adjust both int/ex on cylinder 1, int on cylinder 2, and ex on cylinder 3. Turn crankshaft 360* and adjust the rest.

 

OK I'll try it again but I'm pretty certain it's on the compression stroke cause my buddy is watching the valves... the intake will open then shut then exhaust open and shut then they're both shut so that's right before compression right???
That's where were adjusting them from and there is way too much slack more than a 1/4'' is it possible my cam is wore out???

 

^ possible but more likely a lifter or valve issue

 

you're right rowdy It's a valve issue my cousins rebuilding a head for me so i'll be good to go plus since i've striped it down to the block again i'll go ahead and change the timing case cover and do you think i'll need a new head gasket since it never ran or even fired???

 

If you've removed the head, you need a new head gasket. You may be able to get away with it one time out of ten, but to get it all buttoned up and have to tear it back down would be worth the extra money for the new HG imo

 

alright I've made progress I've got a new head from my cousin with a little chunkier cam and the head is on I'm now working on valve clearance then I'll hook up manifolds etc... does anybody know what the mark on the crankshaft pully needs to be at before starting??? Is the 1st piston supposed to be at TDC or..After completing valve adjustment, rotate the crankshaft 352°, so that the 8° BTDC mark on the pulley aligns with the pointer.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you'll notice a guide pin coming from the front of the camshaft for the camgear. When this pin is at the top of the camshaft rotation, you have achieved top-dead center. double check with the timing gauge down near the crank pulley.

Valve gap, factory specs, is like intake 12deg and exhasut 16deg or 18 deg. I forget. My truck's valves are set there, but are quite noisy and there is power loss on the low-end. I spoke with a "Toyota Expert" who swears that the factory setting are only good one time. A used motor is better off with setting of intake 10deg and exhaust 12 deg or something to that effect. I would ask around though.

If you're 22R is no longer stock, factory timing specifications are useless. You can set time timing via a vacuum gauge (this also works for carb adjustment). The highest possible reading is basically where you wanna be at.

Lastly, the spark plug wire for number 1 piston is located at the 10-11 o'clock position on the distributor cap (which only applies to the distributor one-way). So, once at TDC, align the teeth of the distributor gear so that the rotor points to the nearest "striking point" of the distributor cap (if it was installed) located in the 10 or 11 0clock position.

Hope you get what I'm saying... Should be cool hearing that baby purr!

 

If you have a new cam then follow the Specs for Valve gap on there card. My Comp Cam is .010 for int and ex. Factory is 0.008int 0.012ex Hot

 

I've got it running but it's got a bit of ticking coming from the valve cover...my clearance was set .07 for Intake and .11 for exhaust and this was cold, I'm going to try and adjust them to the factory spec of .08 and .012 and see if it runs any better...Also had it running for a little while and monitored oil pressure and temp. The temp has stayed fine the whole time but the oil pressure drops, when the motor idles down to almost dead, which I guess makes sense, which leads me to my next problem... I'm having trouble keeping the motor running when I drive it and it has very very little to no power.. it gets almost up to 3000 rpms in 2nd then I shift into 3rd and it really struggles. When in the higher range of 3rd the motor stalls and cuts out ugh! There are a few things that could be contributing to my problems the first is when i replaced the HG and put a new head on it everything was timed like it was supposed to be except the bright link on the chain is not lined up with the keyway on the cam pulley/gear??? is it absolutely essential that the link matches up with the keyway on the cam and that is why my trucks running like poo...

 

The shinny links dont have to line up, but that dowel on the cam gear should be right on top with the engine at TDC.
You might be off a tooth either way on the cam or your Dist might be out a tooth. Engine should just start to come alive at 3000rpms
The oil pressure dropping after its running is normal. The oil is warming up and gets thinner.