Good idea or bad, Im talking stock axles (birfs, 4:10's, Welded rear). I have a ton of tire clearance and can easily clear/flex a 35x12.5 on a 15x10 rim, seems to be no rub either, Running about 4" of lift and the lame push pull steering for now. The truck is soon to be a DD but im not looking for comfort here, gravel roads and some short commutes only really, ive heard that its actually not too bad with the 4:10's from some, others think im an idiot for even thinking about it. Im thinking 33's or 34's are a safer bet but I need some input before I go dropping $400-$1000 on tires(probably buying used). I dont have the money to re-gear the thing(atleast I dont think so?, no idea what 4:37's or 4:88's are worth).

So anyone have experience with 35's on their first gen? Would 33's be a better route?

 

Ride and power are okay. It will be a difference, but it sounds like you you are cool with that.

If you do mild dirt roads, you'd probably be okay.

Anything moderate to difficult, and your steering will take a big crap, guaranteed.

Axles can break, but if you drive careful you'd probably do okay.

 

35s on my 79 2" bodylift


steering was rough, hard to turn those meats with stock setup, clearance was no issue, i have 4:38s and with the 4spd it took alot to get her goin but, 35s are not a great idea on stock parts...33s are def. more senseable

 

if you arent driving it on the highway long distance or up ANY kind of a hill then go for it. even with the 4:88s in mine with the v6 its a slug.... but i drive it daily. for short commutes and to mostly use it in 4 low it should be fine.

 

mY "NEW RIG " the 1987,had 35"s I was amazed how well 4.10s pulled after all the talk about how bad it was to drive with 35's and 4.10s.
The 87' has the flex-i-lite fan as well as the a/c belt removed and a 2" exhasut with flowmaster,I believe that is why it pulled so well even with the 4.10s,I could ride in 5 pretty easily on flat surfaces,but it needed to be in 4 for hilly terrain.The key is driving style. I've put/am putting 4.88s in my 87,
just because it isn't going to be trailered to the offroad areas,I'm also working on my dual t-case setup so those lower gears won't be needed especially with the engine running stout as it is.

 

my old rig


36" swampers , 5:29's and ARB .. NO PROBLEM handeling anything , from mud , to miled rocks (not extreem) , to hi-way .. to towing .. no problem . even a fiber bed on it ..








ohhh and YES .. even regular push pull steering (power) absolutly fine .. NO PROBLEMS ever .. 12 years I owned this unit , and i ended up parting because of the rusty frame ..

funny .. I parted long before most of these "new" parts were even avaliable , and I wish I had it back .. It was the best truck I ever built .

 

Thinking about splitting the difference and going with 34's but there isnt much to choose from, that why im thinking 35's. Im going to run Hy-steer in the near future but il probably run the stock push pull with the drop drag link for a month or two until I decide on what Hy-steer kit to go with, Do you guys think it would be safe on some mild to moderate trails? I think 35's might be pushing it with 4:10's.

What do you guys think it would cost to switch over to some 4:88's or 5:29's and would you guys reccomend 5:29's for street use?

 

Well ive got a guy who wants to trade his welded 4:37 3rds for my open 4:10 3rds front and rear, Do you guys think this would be a good option? I was going to weld my rear anyway but never thought about doing the front.. what are some disadvantages of having a welded front? I can just unlock the hubs and it would drive like normal(besides a welded rear) right? Not sure if 4:37's are gonna make much difference though.

 

I am running 35's on my 86 4runner with a pro comp 4 inch lift, 5.29 gears, detriot truetrac in the front on the highway running 70 mph the rpm is right at 3000. still figured that i am getting 18-19 mpg. not to shabby! they do however rub the fenders when all flexed up. Right behind the front wheelwells and the top of the rear. looking to use some cut out fender flares in the future to solve this. hope this helps someone....

 

I loved watching this rig build up. Very nice.
He's even got room to grow.

 

don't get the welded diffs, you'll blow up front axles unless you go with a 33, and frankly i just don't think 33's look as cool as 36's. mine drives fine with the 36's, it was really rough starting out until i fixed my broken motor mount, now it's fine. steering is all right too.

 

Get the 35's.

I've seen birfs blow up with 31's. I've seen birfs take heavy abuse and be fine on 33's. Its a crap shoot. Steering is what it is. Heavy abuse and it will crap. Mild wheeling, it should be fine.

Here is the thing. If you like the look of 35's, and you go with 33's, you'll just be pissed the whole time that you went with 33's. Get what you want, modify to fit.

 

thread jack, what does it take to blow a birf with 31's?

 

a lead foot in a full lock could almost brake anything,
or a good bounce while spinning the front tires.

 

Smaller tires, 33's or 34's (limited selection though) like you said would definitely be the safer bet but not as much fun...Some people don't have problems pulling 35's with 4.10's but I know when I ran 35's on my 84 it sure bogged it down. Had to pull 3rd gear across some mountain passes, went to 5.29's and the life returned to the truck.
I will be running 35's on my '81. I plan on upgrading the axles at some point but till that happens I will care a spare set w/ birfields and practice changing them out in the driveway because that is something I don't want to learn on the trail....

 

as was said, heavy foot, open diff, full lock.

Get the 35's, be happy. You could break stuff no matter what, so why settle for less.

 

I got 33's, Glad I didnt go with 35's.. they would have rubbed forsure..

33 x 13.5(I know, way to wide) TSL Swampers on 15" x 8" rims, got the tires for $500 and the rims for $30. Two of the Swampers are about 55% and the other two are about 65%. They are alot wider than I would have wanted but cant really get much for $500, they have been wheeled but are in decent shape.. a few slices and a plug, nothing major. Amazingly they clear everything, they are really close to the frame in the rear when I flex it out but should be fine, No steering issues under full droop or stuffed and they only stick out past the fenders about 1.5" which is legal. Im getting the other two mounted tommoro, pics to come in my build thread .

 

So im trading my 33x13.5 Bias ply LTB's for a set of 35x13.5 Krawlers, il update on how it goes. Right now I can turn full lock with no rubbing, and flex it out with no issues at all. If that changes il end up doing a rears up front setup which I plan on doing sooner than later anyway and adjust my steering stops so the tires dont contact the springs and so I dont accidentally kill my birfs. They are going on my 15x8's, I was trying to steer clear of wide tires again, il sell them if they aren't to my liking. The Krawlers are a true 35's , well they are a bit worn but when they are new they are a big tire compared to other 35's, I think im definetly in for some rubbing.

 

hope you dont still have stock gears.

 

I most certainly do! 4:10's!, stock t-case and a 5spd, It cruises great with 33's, power isn't that bad, I cant imagine the 35's being that much worse. My next upgrade is gearing for sure though, Looking for some used 3rd's or Axles with them already done, but if not il go new R&P and master installs. Theres a guy around here that wheels his with stock gearing and 36" Iroks, does just fine.. I dont know if I could stand my low range being so high though haha.