15.50_STOCK

I have an 82 pickup, how hard is it to remove the "stuff" under the "carpet or mat"? Its like insulation type stuff.

scuba

i dont think it would be too hard, pull the seat(s)
pull up the vinyl stuff??
then take out whatever that stuff is.
i dont own a first gen but i had to pull my vinly floor stuff when i put in my system

Island_Yota

The sound deadener? Chisel + Hammer takes it off in big pieces, its easy on a cold day, never tried when its warm out.

scuba

you got it

Sked

A 'Cold' day is the key or it will be all sticky and make it worse than before. I got a jug of dry ice from work and it did wonders just as long as your hands and not wet.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

yep, I will be taking an air chisel to mine before I weld in the new floor section...heard of a few guys having a floor catch on fire..

KellyKel

As I recall... yep. This is a few years back off of Honda-Tech. The pictures are removed now, but the info's still there: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=525936



Tools Required: Dry Ice, Scraping tools (chisels, sturdy putty knifes), Gloves, Adhesive remover, Knee Pad(s), Sand paper, Hammer, Dust/paint mask, And tons of elbow grease!

STEP 1: Buy dry ice, I bought 30lbs. b/c I did it in the afternoon in 70+ degree temp. so it melted quite quickly. I recommend you wait to do this at night so the ice will last longer. Then break the ice up into smaller manageable pieces/chunks.


STEP 2: Apply broken up dry ice chunks on top of the tar pieces in the car. Spread the ice around and I recommend placing a lot of chunks around the edges of the tar pieces. If the chunks are too big, just bash it with a hammer.


STEP 3: Wait about 15-20 minutes, or until the pieces of tar turns whitish and starts to crack. Then use your scraping tool(s) to lift up the tar from the floorboards. If the tar is still sticking to the floorboards, let the ice sit longer on it.

Be sure to put dry ice on the tar pieces behind the firewall mat. Be sure to also place ice behind the center lower console.


STEP 4: After you remove the big patches of tar, you will be left with a lot of tar residue and little chunks that are stuck to the floorboards. Use some adhesive remover to dissolve the smaller pieces of tar off of the floorboards.


I recommend using 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner. Now is a good time to put on a dust/paint mask, and apply the cleaner chemicals to a rag.

Start scrubbing!


STEP 5: Now this step is optional, but I think it will make your car a whole lot cleaner looking.

You may have noticed that there is an off-whitish colored caulking material that is generously pasted around the edges of all the floorboard seams, and around the circular metal domes in the floorboards. This stuff is extremely time consuming to remove.

The Adhesive Remover I used wouldn't dissolve it. So I had to use my trusty putty knife and a crap load of patience to scrap it away. I also tried using my hairdryer to heat it up. This made removing the caulking a lot easier, but the overall process went slower b/c I had to wait for the caulking to heat up. So I just scraped it off using a scraper and some sandpaper.

Or get mad at it with a Hammer & Chisel - anger management style.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

nice write up ..

at this point . Acetone will clean it up real nice .


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15.50_STOCK

Hey guys, Im doing this now. I started yesterday, it was hot outside. I pulled the floor stuff, the passenger side came out real easy, but the driver side is mold mold mold mold mold mold mold. It always smelled funny in there. MOst of it was still wet, and the truck hasnt seen mud/water since last august. I think im going to use the ice method to do the drivers side, then use adhesive remover then mask off the dash and pressuer wash the whole inside. There tons of mud from the PO. The trans tunnel color is so nice, factory toyota .