rear springs 48" and 51"
Oct 9, 2012 | 07:32 AM
#2
I don't know of many people doing that while your at the work may as well do a Chevy 63 or ford f150 swap its not much more work. And I think you'll get less lift since the 1st gen springs have more arch to them.
Oct 9, 2012 | 06:43 PM
#7
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From: 46 50' 36.82'' N 122 19' 41.01'' W
you must work fast. cutting off brackets and welding on new ones straight in 10-15 minutes.
Longer is usually always better. The 3rd gen rears are awsome springs IMO. Loved mine so much I put them up front.
Last edited by ThatGuy1295; Oct 9, 2012 at 06:44 PM.
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Oct 9, 2012 | 09:03 PM
#8
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,116
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From: Arnold California
lets see
remove old springs
wire wheel the frame where new hanger goes
measure 11" eye to eye
tack new hanger in place
measure again
fully weld new hangers
mount new springs
cut old hanger off
done
remove old springs
wire wheel the frame where new hanger goes
measure 11" eye to eye
tack new hanger in place
measure again
fully weld new hangers
mount new springs
cut old hanger off
done
Oct 9, 2012 | 10:02 PM
#10
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 1
From: Arnold California
^
sounds pretty simple indeed, i agree. but it is much MUCH simpler to just unbolt and....REBOLT. no cut off wheels, no welding, just bolting. i don't understand how grinding and welding is "not much more work" than bolting something on.
maybe i should give a little more information. i am not a rock crawler. i am not going high steer. my truck is a restoration/modernization build. i want to keep it looking stock with toyota parts not the 63" chevies or f150 ford springs that folks do for flex. i am not interested in those options. i searched and discovered a 3" difference between rear springs and had an idea. just thought maybe someone has done it and can give me some feed back.
yes, i was also going with the idea that longer springs will give a better ride.
sounds pretty simple indeed, i agree. but it is much MUCH simpler to just unbolt and....REBOLT. no cut off wheels, no welding, just bolting. i don't understand how grinding and welding is "not much more work" than bolting something on.
maybe i should give a little more information. i am not a rock crawler. i am not going high steer. my truck is a restoration/modernization build. i want to keep it looking stock with toyota parts not the 63" chevies or f150 ford springs that folks do for flex. i am not interested in those options. i searched and discovered a 3" difference between rear springs and had an idea. just thought maybe someone has done it and can give me some feed back.
yes, i was also going with the idea that longer springs will give a better ride.
but have you ever taken the suspension off a 30 year old truck? unbolting all that stuff is harder than welding new hangers on guaranteed. idk if your stuff is rusty but mine sure was.
Oct 10, 2012 | 07:07 AM
#11
Hey man I was just trying to help Chevys will give you the softest ride. And if 10-15 minutes just to measure and weld on two hangers is fast then yes I work fast. I wasn't in clouding cutting the old hangers off because if you didn't like the other springs you could switch back to Toyotas.
Oct 10, 2012 | 07:14 PM
#16
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From: 46 50' 36.82'' N 122 19' 41.01'' W
79-83 Measures (A/B) = 22-5/8 x 22-5/8 1st gen
84-88 Measures (A/B) = 20-1/2 x 26-3/4 2nd gen
89-94 Measures (A/B) = 22-1/2 x 29 3rd gen
A = front hanger to center pin
B = center pin to rear hanger
84-88 Measures (A/B) = 20-1/2 x 26-3/4 2nd gen
89-94 Measures (A/B) = 22-1/2 x 29 3rd gen
A = front hanger to center pin
B = center pin to rear hanger
Oct 11, 2012 | 06:36 PM
#19
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,746
Likes: 6
From: 46 50' 36.82'' N 122 19' 41.01'' W
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