KryptoRoxx

Don't know how many people are still following this since I've been posting on the 2wd project trying to get d-wood running. I have an interesting problem though after performing the vent mod on the Weber. I cannot....and I mean cannot keep fuel pressure. I can get her to run fine but it seems like all of the fuel drains back into the tank and does not stay in the lines at all. I've narrowed it down to 3 things it might be....I think.

1. The charcoal canister now has two lines going to it with one coming from the fuel pump and one coming from the vent mod. The addition of the fuel regulator might be restricting the mechanical fuel line going into the carb and pushing all of the fuel back to the tank creating a viscious cycle and reducing fuel pressure below what the engine can run on.

2. My tank fuel pump is going out (haven't had any problems out of it yet though)

3. Mechanical fuel pump is going out (haven't had any problems with it either)

I'm betting on #1 but I wanted to see if anyone else had any ideas before I go either ordering parts or capping the fuel pump secondary outlet. I read that a couple of people did that in order for the regulator to work......????

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

FYI, unless you put one in, there is no fuel pump in your tank. Just a mechanical pump at the head

KryptoRoxx

Ok well that narrows one down. I got it!!

So when the fuel is pumped into the lines it hits the regulator and forces the fuel down the other line back to the tank. The other problem I did not anticipate is that the vent line provides enough air for the fuel to leak back down the line away from the fuel pump since it is in a T-fitting inline with the secondary outlet on the fuel pump....

Now to figure out how to run it so that the vent can operate correctly and the return line on the tank is retained....it needs to be sealed....so I need to find a one way valve to put in line with the return line before the T to retain pressure in the fuel line.....I may have just confused myself.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Try using a check valve on the fuel line to keep it from draining back to the tank. Also, why did you vent the carb? Planning on climbing steep hills?

KryptoRoxx

Next thing I'm working on after I get this fuel stuff sorted is a high pinion front diff and adding a second xfer. I have the gears sitting on the shelf with another xfer ripped apart ready for the gears and rebuild. I just haven't had a whole lot of time with the oil leaks and stuff. Gotta make her run right before having fun with her.

Also seriously looking at adding a second stock gas tank on the other side of the driveline. I ran my exhaust short enough that I can make it happen....just waiting on time and cash.

To verify the problem I disconnected the vacuum line going to the charcoal canister and fired her up. She idled for a while and then the pressure gauge on my fuel line that had been reading zero spiked to 3psi and then the engine died. That tells me what's going on in my fuel lines. The return line is pumping back to the tank because of the inline fuel regulator so I'm going to plug that. In addition when I plugged the vacuum line on the charcoal canister it made the carburetor pressurize with fuel/air through the vent line till the carb was full....and it ran out of room....killing the engine and pressurizing the line. ˟

For the solution I came up with a two part idea.

1. Check valve just like you said, probably right after the fuel pressure gauge to make for easy starts.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Fuel-one...-/360144846950

2. Electric fuel shut off for the vent line. The vent won't do jack until I'm trying to climb a hill so I found an electric fuel shut off valve for Model T's that will keep it from leaking air till I am planning on climbing a steep enough hill. Simple switch in the dash and problem solved.

http://www.modeltford.com/item/A-EFV-12.aspx

So I read that you removed your charcoal canisters completely and honestly I was thinking of doing the same thing. That would simplify my whole system and there isn't a bit of smog stuff left anyways....and I'm not even sure the charcoal canister was working anyway.

KryptoRoxx

I finally figured it out and it's simplier than I thought.

I HAVE A BAD POWER VALVE in the carb. I took the hose off of the breather mod I did and then put the hose in a container thinking it was going to run through the tank return and up through the hose I put into the canister.....well it didn't....it came straight through the breather hose and onto the ground. It ran for a minute or so before I realized what was going on in the cab lol. So I ended up with a pretty good sized fuel spill that is evaporating as we speak and I need some new parts for the Weber lol.

I am going to an electric pump though to make my fuel setup much more simple and to get rid of some of the hoses running across the bay. Buying the block off plate and some new gaskets this payday along with new floats and a power valve. Might as well replace all that stuff at the same time. The rest of the carb has been rebuilt about 2 years ago with light driving so I'm sure that's all fine.

d-wood

What's a bad power valve?

KryptoRoxx

Well its a combination of that and floats needing replaced. From what I am guessing the power valve has something to do with the fuel delivery .....and right now the floats are set lower than ever and it is still overflowing....so I am replacing both of them to make sure it gets fixed.

d-wood

How'd that happen?

KryptoRoxx

?????? lol....no idea

KryptoRoxx

Ok just wanted to see if I'm going crazy or if this will work.



Going to run an electric pump instead of the mechanical. LC has the block off plate for it and it is in the mail.

Also going to run a fuel tank selector valve for the venting of the Weber. I can seal it into the fuel system if I feel it's going to overflow. Easy operation from within the cab. Looks like I'll be setting up a auxiliary fuse box here before I had planned on it. More cash down the drain I suppose but safety first with electricity lol.

Just out of curiosity I am planning on adding another tank to the setup. If I were to pull from the tank with a low pressure fuel pump and dump it into the main tank via the vent line would that blow anything up? Just curious.

KryptoRoxx

?? Anyone have something similar to this?

Stetson_md

... remind me not to buy a weber they sound like alot of headache

KryptoRoxx

They're really not. If you have an all stock truck the installation is pretty straight forward. I bought a project that had problems in the first place so that's what I'm dealing with.....and the fact that I am learning all of this stuff as I go along. I'm the same age as the truck and I'm not a mechanic professionally. I'm a jarhead trying to find something fun to tinker with. I do enjoy working on it but I wish I understood everything instead of having to learn it.

Stetson_md

are they any simpler then a holly? btw your truck looks awesome under the hood

KryptoRoxx

Honestly the Weber is pretty simple as far as carbs go. If you follow the tips and tricks on tuning them I don't see how you could get any more basic.

Not 100% on this fact but I think Weber is the only Carb that will work with the stock 22r....just because of the displacement required by the 4 barrel carbs.

Thanks for the compliment. The truck needs a lot of love. Hopefully I can get to it all soon.

KryptoRoxx

Long time since I posted. Finally went electric pump, fixed the venting with a two way switch, and now know I'm running 3.5 psi......runs rich as hell and I have to rejet her again. Runs like a top though. Gotta say its improved. Next up some treadwrights and a high pinion front diff and I can go play a bit.