Hi All. Figured I'd introduce myself - share the story of this time capsule I stumbled upon and fortunately was able to purcahse.

First, I've been a long time T4R.org member as I am a 3rd gen 4Runner enthusiast and have been for some time. That said, for the last few years I've been trying to find a tacoma but could never find the perfect one. In the back of my mind, I would have LOVED to get my hands on a mid 80's pickup but I couldn't ever find one that wasn't too clapped out or wasn't restored and very expensive.

Enter the diamond in the rough I just bought. I stumbled upon an autotrader ad for this '83 SR5 that was within driving distance from me. Seemed like it could be too good to be true, because from what I've found (or not to this point) there are not many good all original pickups left in the north east area.

While negotiating and chatting with the seller over the last few weeks, I began googling (and joining this site) to try and learn anything and everything I could about the 81-83's as it seemed as though there was a chance I'd be able to get my hands on one. Then... by chance, I found this. https://dailyturismo.com/auction-wat...ota-hilux-sr5/

Read through that link for more details on the truck and its condition.

This was the same truck. Had to be. The giveaway, other than the color and snugtop was the winch and the Warn sticker on the back of the cap. Here is how it sat when I found it:













Unmolested, but dirty and dusty. Musty smelling, had some mold on the passenger seat. Doesn't run great. But this was the truck I've been looking for.

After seeing some dew on the windshield in the morning it looks like the windshield gasket by the passenger side lower corner may be leaking. This could easily be the cause of the smell/mold.

Once I got it home, my brother in law and I did a detail on it, and it cleaned up great. I cut the cat out, as it was running terribly and after a few minutes the cat would glow red. I am going to replace the entire exhaust system but if I had to guess (PLEASE correct me if not true) but when new, there were no cats on these trucks. It even had what appeared to be a botched weld job to add it, assuming because it was a CA car for the majority of its life.

The morning after I brought it home (and a chance to whore out my 4runner)



Here's how it cleaned up.






Now on to a few questions. Forgive me for not searching for all of these, I wasn't sure if someone would be kind enough to just answer them for me on a whim.

Being a 33 year old, this is the first carbureted car I've ever owned. Is there a sweet spot to getting these old birds to fire right up first time? Key position to on and a pump or 2 of the throttle to prime it before hand?

Its leaking from the half moons from what I can tell on either side, so I have in my cart from 22RE performance, a new gasket kit, plugs & wires. To hopefully iron out any issues with a basic tune up. I'll also order a complete exhaust kit which it looks like are still available from sites like toyotapartsdeal, which I am very familiar with ordering parts for my T4R. Hopefully a tune up will get this thing running right.

Anyone have any info on these floor mats? I think they're cool as hell. Original? I can't seem to find anything like them on the web.


Lastly, from what I gather on the web - the OE wheel width is 7"? Any fitment issues with a 31x10.5 R15 KO2 or Grabber AT?


Apologies for the formatting/rotation of pictures I am no expert with forum images and cant seem to get some of them rotate. Cheers.

 

That's a hell of a truck! Looks almost factory fresh. Your dash pad, seats, and door cards are mint!

I'd go through and replace all of the rubber sections of fuel line. It's easy, cheap, and worth every cent in peace of mind. Change the fuel filter while you're at it.
If it sits for a week or more without being driven or turned on then it can take a few cranks and at least a few pedal pumps to get gas up to the carb.
Assuming it's on the factory carburetor the rubber pieces inside are probably really worn out. The accelerator pump is a rubber diaphragm that just gives up the ghost after so long.
Half moons and valve cover gasket are easy! Red RTV over and under the half moons works well for keeping the oil inside.

Those floor mats are not factory Toyota, but they are 80's period correct and you need to keep them in there because they're baaaaad asssssss. Tasmanian Devil or Tweety Bird mats were also pretty popular.
I currently have 35x12.50 mud terrains on those wheels with no issues but I'm probably pushing it. 10.5 should mount no problem.

Check for rust in the cab corners where the front mud flaps screw in. That is the most common place to find trouble underneath the carpet.

 

Thanks!

After a thorough inspection this is legitimately the only spot on the truck with rust from what I've found. INCLUDING the entire frame and underside. Pictures don't even do it justice, I promise. Most will not believe the age and condition of this truck as it sits.

 

And it looks like at least per the VIN tag that these OE wheels are actually 6". Still safe to assume a 10.5 width will mount?

 

Congratulations on your find! Truly an amazing truck in great condition. The antenna is aftermarket but the original OEM unit is still available. The floor mats were made by a company called "Plasticolor" and are still in business. The Toyota mats you have are vintage and, of course, no longer made. On rare occasions, old stock can be found on eBay but they go for big money.

 

Great info! thank you! Yeah, the antenna is in my list of things to replace as well.

 

[QUOTE]Being a 33 year old, this is the first carbureted car I've ever owned. Is there a sweet spot to getting these old birds to fire right up first time? Key position to on and a pump or 2 of the throttle to prime it before hand?[​​/QUOTE]

Actually, the book specs 3 pumps, when it's cold. When it's warm, no pumps. IE: If the temp gauge doesn't move from the bottom of it's throw when you turn the key on, 3 pumps. If it move, even a little, off the bottom of it's throw, no pumps
I've found that if it's cooled off to the bottom of the temp gauge, but had been warmed up recently, one to two pumps will do the trick nicely. Yes, from dead cold, 3 pumps.

If it's sat for a few days, like a week or more, 3 pumps, crank for 15-30 seconds, one pump, crank, usually fires it up. You have to allow the fuel pump a little bit to refill the carb's bowl, if it's sat that long.

Never crank longer than 60 seconds. If you crank it that long, stop and let it sit for 5 min, then 30 seconds crank at a time until it starts.

Just my personal experience.

If you're going to have the valve cover off to replace the seal, set the valve lash. The FSM has to correct procedure. Also, it's a good opportunity to replace the PCV valve, and it's grommet. The grommet get's brittle and falls apart when you pull the valve very often. If you do it with the valve cover off, it can't fall little chunks of grommet into the valve train. Use OEM parts. DO NOT use cheapo, after market Chinese junk parts. You'll regret it.

Good luck!
Pat☺

 

Thanks! Much appreciated info. For what its worth, in the last 3 days I've gone out, key to the on position 1 pump and it fires right up and hovers around 1k. The truck was not driven much from what I gather, and sat in a garage and was occasionally started on the weekends. Maybe it just needs a little love. I've seen a few FSM's for sale on eBay and as one who likes to have it in his hands I think I may pick one up.

Also, very relatable and I guess just a toyota thing but the 5VZFE in my 4runner(and yours too, based on your sig) is absolutely much more appreciative of toyota OE parts only. Aside from a toyota parts dealer, does anyone have good experience with a site like 22RE performance? They appear to have OE+ parts? Just curious.

Thanks again

 

Yes. When I got the 99 4Runner, the dealer I bought it from had somehow managed to ruin the knock sensors just before it went on the truck to me. I took it to my mechanic (a really good, reliable guy), and he replaced them. He thought he'd save me some money, and got after market sensors. When he test ran it, lo and behold, got the knock sensor error CEL. I mentioned that the 5VZ-FE didn't get along with after market parts. He went to the local dealership, and got OEM sensor. Put them in (no charge for labor), and they worked fine.

My mech swore that from then on, it was only OEM for him. In fact, during the work on the KS's, he touched the hot water control valve. Being factory original, it fell apart in his hands. The plastic had gotten brittle over the years. Not real surprizing, it's almost 25 years old, after all. He replaced the hot water control valve, this time with an OEM. No charge to me at all. Been fine ever since. If it lasts another 25 years, I'll be happy.

Anywho, yeah, they're picky about OEM. Stick with it, and you'll be fine. I do with my pickup, too. It's payed off. Only item I didn't was the radiator. I lived in Yuma, Az, at the time, and I wanted to put in a 3 core. Got an all metal 3 core from a local shop, and it's still in there to this day, still working well. Other than that, I stick to OEM. After more than 30 years, if it worked this long, I'll pay for another one to last that long.
As long as you recognize an OEM manufacturer's name, Aisin, NGK, and so forth, you can get them all over. Rock Auto, or LCE, for example. LCE has the OEM+ parts, and is a good source.

Have fun!
Pat☺

 

Yep, I've become very familiar with the LCE and 22RE Performance sites lately. Much Appreciated.

Cheers.

 

That's a very clean find from the pictures. It looks like someone has re-seam sealed the inside box seams...check these very carefully as this was (is) a bad rust spot. It looks like the "kick panels" in the cab have been kicked and broke and that someone has caulked them to the carpet. These are no longer available. I made mine fro ABS sheet. I believe "Slacker" on this site makes them in fiberglass; I can't re-call his business name off the top of my head. I actually hate the OEM antenna! So "only" owning mine for 40 years I've forgot more stuff then I can recall but to your questions...

The windshield gasket will leak in the bottom corners particularly if you have the plastic chrome insert, which it appears you do; it will get little cracks and leak. After replacing mine twice I went with the gasket without the chrome insert and no more leaks. DANGER...the water that leaks in sits in a divot in the floor pan at the front cab mounts and rusts out the floor here!

All USA spec trucks to the best of my knowledge had catalytic converters and a rats nest of emission hoses. All Canadian spec 4X4 trucks (apparently "Global Spec") were clean of any emission equipment apart from an EVAP canister. It's possible your truck is Canadian spec but I doubt it. Oddly even though my truck being Canadian spec (I bought it in Edmonton) it has a USA destination VIN; the local dealer can't figure that out! The parts guy at the dealership hides when I show up!

Carburetor...Despite what the owners manual says I pump the gas pedal once but hold it at the floor for a second or two and it fires right up to about 4 weeks of not running. After that it requires a few seconds of cranking to re-prime everything. Despite every thing said the the stock Aisin carb is pretty good and reliable when not saddled with a bunch of emissions "stuff" and high ethanol content gas. My brother had an 82 Celica (same engine; 22R) and it was filled with smog stuff and had a few problems in that regard. Here in Canada the maximum ethanol content that it may contain is 10% for regular, 5% for mid-grade and none in premium. I know the refinery where most of the local gas comes from has no ethanol period. When I knowingly ran ethanol in it, well it ran not exactly nice. Mostly hard to start when hot and some surging and jerking at slower speeds. I understand that no or low ethanol gas in the US may not be an option, but try. If you want to de-smog and you need a new carb, getting a Canadian spec carb and plumbing accordingly may be an option; you'll be able to adjust the idle mixture and a few other things.

Wheels...Yes the factory wheels are 15 x 6. Rule of thumb that us grey, err, white hairs use is that wheel width is tread width. You may be able to use tires with 7" tread width but putting 31-10.50R x15 on them may not be that safe in that you could pop the bead. I know some guys put that size and even larger on the factory wheel; I guess they have their own tire machine as I know of no tire dealers that would do that. Tire manufacturers have charts that show recommended rim width for each tire size; yielding to their knowledge is probably a wise thing to do!

OEM parts...Yup good idea but with the age and relative scarcity of these trucks sometimes you got to take what you can get. If you know the Japanese manufacturer, say Aisin, you can save a bundle of cash rather then a "Toyota" branded Aisin part. For example the Toyota water pump here in Canada is upwards of $300 the Aisin is around $60. You can actually see in the casting where the Aisin or Toyota logos should go. There are some key parts that you'll have to settle on Chinese (or such). For example I couldn't find the master cylinder for mine (if anyone knows where to get one for an 83 please tell!) Rather than the Chinese one I rebuilt the old one. You may have to do that. You may even have to fab some parts on your own.

 

Great info! VERY much appreciated.