I need some help. Just finished replacing the head gasket and timing chain on my '83 22r, and I ran into 2 problems.

First, after I added coolant and then turned it over a few times, I noticed water leaking from around the head gasket in multiple spots. I had my head re-surfaced and checked for warpage, I also used a rock gasket and new head bolts from engnbldr, and I checked the torque multiple times. Anyone know what could be making it leak like this?

Second issue: after tying to start it a few times it finally caught and ran for a few seconds, albeit rough, and then the engine would make an audible thud and just stop. Is this just a timing issue?

Any help would be appreciated!

 

If you did not get all the oil or coolant out of the head bolt holes, the bolts will hydraulic lock and your head will not be seated. You need to take a blow nozzle with a long tip and blow out each hole, before you install the head bolts.

 

I did blow out the holes and cleaned them out. I thought I had done it sufficiently, but perhaps not.

I've also heard that it is beneficial to torque the bolts to about 64 ft-lbs opposed to 58 ft-lbs. Is this advisable?

 

lc engineering says 70#
http://www.lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote2.htm

 

you can also check the locate pins/stud, if your head has been shaved the pins could be to long and keep the head from seating.

 

Or, if they took enough off the head/block, you may need a shim. If enough was shaved off, the bolt holes are no longer deep enough for the stock-size head bolts to completely tighten down on.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115/headgasket-188162/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...t-shim-188255/

 

The shop that did my head work claimed to have only shaved about 0.0015, so I don't think that would require a shim.
I actually just re-tightened them to 64 ft-lbs. per Ted at Engnbldr and it stopped most of the leaking, except for a couple of small moist spots.
I am now wondering if the torque wrench I used has lost its calibration over the years and is giving me a false reading?

 

Only one way to find out. Use another wrench. I first tightened mine with one of the crappy "post" torque wrenches, and couldn't get it right. I borrowed a friends clicker torque wrench and it worked perfect. Seems to me the cheap wrenches are only good for light torquing. Once you get up over 20 or 30 ft/lbs they aren't very good.

 

The one I used was a nice snap-on wrench calibrated in inch-lbs and used in aviation, so I doubt it is off by whole lot. But, even if it is off by just 10 ft-lbs it could mean I'm not getting a good seal.
I'm going to borrow another and double check, only thing else I know to do is just torque it a little more till it stops leaking. Otherwise I'll be taking her back down again.

 

Yeah definitely be careful you don't torque too much & strip things..

 

what???? inch pounds that go that high??? 12x56=672......I dont think so. You should use a snap-on that is rated for ft. lbs. If you read it @ 56 inch pounds you would be off a weeee bit.

 

I have seen brand new head gaskets leaking coolant externally once. It was on a small block chevy.

It started to seep coolant when fired up for the first time, then quit when it warmed up. Never leaked again. It has been run numerous times since then, and built pressure, but never driven yet

 

Audible thud? Sounds like coolant getting into the cylinders. When the thud happens will the motor still turn over?

 

You are probably right about the coolant in the cylinders, that would make sense considering my head gasket isn't sealing. I actually got it to run a little better by adjusting the timing.
I re-torqued the head using a different torque wrench and I'm still getting leaks. Looks like I am going to have to take the head off and install a gasket shim to account for the loss in head height. Has anyone had any experience in using a gasket shim?

 

Yeah, the snap-on was calibrated in lb-ins. and could be adjusted as high as 1000 lb-in. It isn't a small wrench, it is just used in aviation which requires a little more precision. It turned out to be off a little, but not much (compared to a different snap-on).

 

I'd talk with the machine shop to see if they think it's necessary but...I'll repost the link again...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...t-shim-188255/

 

I have used shims once when .060" had to be milled off a set of heads on a dodge stealth

They get installed under the head gasket, against the block. It took a ridiculously long time to get them.


I doubt you need a shim with the amount that was shaved off your head. Some motors have offset cam keys available. I am not sure if it is possible or necessary in your case.