new 81 4x4 (new to me)
Sep 14, 2009 | 07:50 AM
#121
Registered User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,591
Likes: 126
From: Montana
9 is NICE. Love how they used the fender flares, those would match a first gen perfectly. I wouldn't go with a flat bed without some kind of rail, so the completely flat ones would be out for me. I think a combination of a couple of them would be best. I love the overhead rack idea like 8, but put some low side rails on it.
Sep 14, 2009 | 07:52 AM
#122
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 17
From: Just North of Pittsburgh
I would not weld it...if you weld the rear then your on street performance is shot and you'll chew up tires real quick like. Even with a lunchbox locker tires will go a bit quicker. If you weld the front you will not be able to turn very well at all even on the trails. Turning on the street just wont happen. You probable run with 1 hub locked while you were on the trails and if you going to do that why bother welding it??? I have seen the difference a rear locker will make and that is my next purchase (hopefully spring time).
Sep 14, 2009 | 07:55 AM
#123
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 17
From: Just North of Pittsburgh
9 is NICE. Love how they used the fender flares, those would match a first gen perfectly. I wouldn't go with a flat bed without some kind of rail, so the completely flat ones would be out for me. I think a combination of a couple of them would be best. I love the overhead rack idea like 8, but put some low side rails on it.
Sep 14, 2009 | 07:07 PM
#124
if I were to combine a few I would have to say 1,2,&8...
but first is getting use to my new welder so Im gonna practice on my exhaust then will prolly pull my bed off here in the next couple weeks maybe start the flat bed, would also like to try and make a front bumper maybe some sliders depending on how good I get
but first is getting use to my new welder so Im gonna practice on my exhaust then will prolly pull my bed off here in the next couple weeks maybe start the flat bed, would also like to try and make a front bumper maybe some sliders depending on how good I get
Last edited by 4x4YOTA; Sep 14, 2009 at 07:10 PM.
Sep 16, 2009 | 01:57 PM
#126
updates
messed around with my high lift and seeing were and if I have any binds... so far nothing with steering the only prob is my boomerang shackle hits the body mount at drop and limits further down travel so I need to tak my grinder to it at some point
pics
messed around with my high lift and seeing were and if I have any binds... so far nothing with steering the only prob is my boomerang shackle hits the body mount at drop and limits further down travel so I need to tak my grinder to it at some point
pics
Oct 7, 2009 | 07:35 PM
#127
got some great parts for free...
5 speed w/tcase (for duals)
long tube headers custon front bumper
front and rear drive shafts
and a few other odds and ends
offered to help the guy with his motor swap since he gave me all the parts (i felt bad just taking them)
5 speed w/tcase (for duals)
long tube headers custon front bumper
front and rear drive shafts
and a few other odds and ends
offered to help the guy with his motor swap since he gave me all the parts (i felt bad just taking them)
Oct 13, 2009 | 07:58 PM
#130
here are some pics... ordered my rims today, should have tires mounted next week (hopefully)...
heres the tires
comparing width
side by side
front
rear
here is my new tranny out of a 84/85 4runner
rear axle out of a 90 4runner
hearders off a 84/85 22R
what cross member could I get to mount that tranny behind my truck... I know bud built make one but does anyone else?
heres the tires
comparing width
side by side
front
rear
here is my new tranny out of a 84/85 4runner
rear axle out of a 90 4runner
hearders off a 84/85 22R
what cross member could I get to mount that tranny behind my truck... I know bud built make one but does anyone else?
Last edited by 4x4YOTA; Oct 13, 2009 at 08:02 PM.
Oct 23, 2009 | 09:55 PM
#139
ok so duals are next I have my extra case but it is a forward shift (but was free) so I need to ether convert it or modify it and get an adapter/crossmember... I can get shafts made fo under $200 for both rear is $60 to be shortened and front is $80-$120... but what is a good way to convert a forward shift to a top shift?
Oct 23, 2009 | 10:17 PM
#140
convert FS to TS transfer case
ok so duals are next I have my extra case but it is a forward shift (but was free) so I need to ether convert it or modify it and get an adapter/crossmember... I can get shafts made fo under $200 for both rear is $60 to be shortened and front is $80-$120... but what is a good way to convert a forward shift to a top shift?
truck is looking pretty cool, I would like see the 37's stuff at full lock to see how they rub
Kits to convert Forward to TS:
T-g:http://trail-gear.com/top-shift-conversion-kits.html
inchworm: http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/pr...oducts_id=1009
marlin: http://www.marlincrawler.com/hardwar...-kit-crawl-box
DIY:
from this Thread
*this is for a dual toyota t-case set-up.*
i know the shop is a mess.... so dont say anything
OK, since i had 2 extra forward cases, i decided i HAD to make them work for my marlin crawler. i know this isnt NEW. and using a forward shift case for the RANGE box has been done. but i needed it to work for the rear 4WD case.(id heard it couldnt be done:shaking: )
im not going to go through the teardown. hopefully if you are attempting this conversion, you already know how to tear it down.
*im going to refer to the 4L-4H rail as LEFT*
*the 2WD-4H as RIGHT*
1)get the SPARE shift fork from the DONOR case. and cut the lug off, using a die grinder. be sure not to cut it too close.
2) install the rails into the RANGE portion of the rear case. after the rails are in, put the shift detents back in place. this will help insure correct placement. and carefully measure for the roll pin. its VERY important to get it right. measure 5X cut once. leave the LEFT rail in 4wd(toward the front) and shift the RIGHT rail into 4wd also.(to the front.) mark where the new hole has to be, for the LUG on the right rail. i tried to match the lug(NOT THE HOLE) to the other fork as best i could.
do NOT attempt to drill the rail. it is hardened steel, and you will never get it. even if you could, i doubt it would be straight. i took mine to a local machine shop(Machine Service inc.)
3) grab the ends u cut off, and remove the gates. set them aside, for now.
**note** this pic is out of sequence. when removing the gates, be sure to remove the entire portion off the 2WD gate. this prevents the shifter from falling into "space" when in 4L. i had to go back, and add this piece.
4) attach lug to the right rail, and the fork to the left rail, and the you need to clearance the INSIDE edge of each lug. you need a "flat" section to attach the gates to. since the lugs are angled, it wont be square. i ground them down close, and just clamped to the THICKER side. and filled in the small gap.
5) once you're certain you know where theyre going. carefully weld the gate onto the lugs. use the SHORT gate on the LEFT(with FORK) rail. and the LONG gate on the RIGHT rail. *see my note above.*
theres alot of test fitting. i dont remember when i did it. but at some point, after u instal the gates, you need to reinstall the main shaft, and most of the gears, and 2WD shift fork, and slide the outer portion of the t-case in place. be sure everything shifts good. then measure where to cut the STICK OUT, from the rails. they can only stick out about 1/4" when shifted into 4H. otherwise they will hit the 4L rail in the range box.
this pic also thems them after they were shortened.
6)put everything together for another test fit. you now need your gates to line up. if they dont, but are close, you can use a file to get them exact. mine were dead on, and no adjustments were needed. again, note the lug i added after the fact.
one thing i want to mention, as it messed with me a few times. when these rails are out, they can be put in 180* out of phase. it will work properly, but your shift detents will not work correctly. be sure on the final install, that the SINGLE detent notch is to the INSIDE.
make sure everything shifts correctly and smoothly. i used a bit of 90w to ease the install.
and finally, a forward shift tcase, converted to a top shift, ready to be installed.
hopefully this will help others who dont have a top shift case, but want a dual case set-up.
i know the shop is a mess.... so dont say anything
OK, since i had 2 extra forward cases, i decided i HAD to make them work for my marlin crawler. i know this isnt NEW. and using a forward shift case for the RANGE box has been done. but i needed it to work for the rear 4WD case.(id heard it couldnt be done:shaking: )
im not going to go through the teardown. hopefully if you are attempting this conversion, you already know how to tear it down.
*im going to refer to the 4L-4H rail as LEFT*
*the 2WD-4H as RIGHT*
1)get the SPARE shift fork from the DONOR case. and cut the lug off, using a die grinder. be sure not to cut it too close.
2) install the rails into the RANGE portion of the rear case. after the rails are in, put the shift detents back in place. this will help insure correct placement. and carefully measure for the roll pin. its VERY important to get it right. measure 5X cut once. leave the LEFT rail in 4wd(toward the front) and shift the RIGHT rail into 4wd also.(to the front.) mark where the new hole has to be, for the LUG on the right rail. i tried to match the lug(NOT THE HOLE) to the other fork as best i could.
do NOT attempt to drill the rail. it is hardened steel, and you will never get it. even if you could, i doubt it would be straight. i took mine to a local machine shop(Machine Service inc.)
3) grab the ends u cut off, and remove the gates. set them aside, for now.
**note** this pic is out of sequence. when removing the gates, be sure to remove the entire portion off the 2WD gate. this prevents the shifter from falling into "space" when in 4L. i had to go back, and add this piece.
4) attach lug to the right rail, and the fork to the left rail, and the you need to clearance the INSIDE edge of each lug. you need a "flat" section to attach the gates to. since the lugs are angled, it wont be square. i ground them down close, and just clamped to the THICKER side. and filled in the small gap.
5) once you're certain you know where theyre going. carefully weld the gate onto the lugs. use the SHORT gate on the LEFT(with FORK) rail. and the LONG gate on the RIGHT rail. *see my note above.*
theres alot of test fitting. i dont remember when i did it. but at some point, after u instal the gates, you need to reinstall the main shaft, and most of the gears, and 2WD shift fork, and slide the outer portion of the t-case in place. be sure everything shifts good. then measure where to cut the STICK OUT, from the rails. they can only stick out about 1/4" when shifted into 4H. otherwise they will hit the 4L rail in the range box.
this pic also thems them after they were shortened.
6)put everything together for another test fit. you now need your gates to line up. if they dont, but are close, you can use a file to get them exact. mine were dead on, and no adjustments were needed. again, note the lug i added after the fact.
one thing i want to mention, as it messed with me a few times. when these rails are out, they can be put in 180* out of phase. it will work properly, but your shift detents will not work correctly. be sure on the final install, that the SINGLE detent notch is to the INSIDE.
make sure everything shifts correctly and smoothly. i used a bit of 90w to ease the install.
and finally, a forward shift tcase, converted to a top shift, ready to be installed.
hopefully this will help others who dont have a top shift case, but want a dual case set-up.
converting a Forward shift to top shift (front box)
