jastamjas

I am deploying in a month so when I get back I will be able to buy a new engine for my 1980. I was wondering where you guys recommend getting one from. My other question is there anything I van spray on rust to stop it from getting worse. I only have about a week before I leave. I don't have the time to sand it all down and take care of it the right way. If you have any other suggestions to do to the truck before it sits for 9-12 months.

aztoyman

Why not rebuild your engine?

Rust where? Body, frame? Go to Home Depot, ACE Hardware or body shop supply and look at rust preventive products.

I have seen stuff you spray directly on rust to chemically bond and stop it. Spray on Cosmoline for parts you can wash off later. Gallon cans of WD-40 you can put in a spray bottle.

Never tried any of it because I live in dry ass Arizona, but there's a few ideas.

Got a garage or tarp canopy to cover it while you're gone?

Put some fuel stabilizer in. Take the battery out or get a maintenance charger on it. Got anybody that you trust that could run it once a month or so?

Good luck on your deployment and thanks for your service.

donomite49

how about a 2.7 swap? 150 HP will wake the ol yota up.
i woke my 88 up with a 3.4 v6 and love it.
http://toyonlyswaps.com/
http://www.offroadsolutions.com/
por 15 or check out napa they have rust paint too.
at the least get some fuel stabilizer so the gas won't go bad.

tons of info in the engine swap section, click on the offroad tech link.

my first yota was a 79, got a 3.8 turbo buick for it but never got it done, been a yota guy ever since...

yodafan93

i second the por 15 for the rust. im getting a motor from 22reperformance.com (putney's custom machine shop). everything ive read about and seen from them looks amazing.

jastamjas

I wanted to buy a new engine because it has the 20r in it right now and I have been looking to a 22r to rebuild but where I am they want way to much for them or there the wrong year. The rust is all on the body. I already cleaned up the frame and coated it. I was looking for something to spray on the body rust to stop it then I was going to cover the truck with a tarp. I would love to do a 3rz swap but I am afraid that is way above my skill level.

aztoyman

A tarp directly on it will be a problem. If it leaks at all it will trap the moisture in and rust worse. I had this happen in AZ.

It would be better if set up over the truck like a tent so air circulates. Do a good job because you don't want the tarp to blow away either.

EMT conduit or PVC is cheap and makes a nice frame to hold your tarp. Maybe clamp it to your bumpers? You just need kind of a pup tent shape to keep water off the truck but let some air circulate underneath because moisture WILL get in.

yodafan93

where are you located? and whats your price range if you dont mind me asking?

jastamjas

I live in Kansas the price range I was looking to keep in under $3500 for engine and transmission. If I made a PVC frame the wonderful Kansas wind would destroy it.

yodafan93

whats wrong with your tranny? you can get a motor from putneys for that much. mine was less than 3500 and im in nc.

jastamjas

It has a 4 speed in it I was thinking about going with a 5 speed from marlin.

jastamjas

What is putneys I googled them and nothing related to motors came up

slacker

iTrader: (1)

ya can't "spray" anythin on the bed to stop it from rusting ..
it would be a miracle !!!

bed rust on these years of trucks is inevitable because of the construction design .. you can spend all kinds of money trying , and may even be successfull for a couple of years , but , ultimatly , you can't stop an original bed from rusting


.

jastamjas

I wasn't to worried about the bed I was worried about the rain gutter on top of the cab and a couple of other spots. I plan on getting a fiberglass bed down the road. My whole goal with this truck is to save it from the grave yard and make a daily driver at it.

bone collector

I really don't have much info to help in this case, I just wanted to say thank you for your service and get back safely. I have had several family who have been deployed recently, so I can appreciate your commitment and dedication.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

my advice for the rain gutter , is cut it off !! , but you need a welder .
I did on my trekker as it is a real sore spot for cancer and like the beds , there will be no saving it .

I have a set of NEW factory drip rails in my shop , we're trying to duplicate in FRP , to go with our complete cab when we get that done , so we may even be ably to supply this a replacement part


.

jastamjas

I appreciate everyone's help and bone collector it's has been my pleasure to serve in the army. I use to be a helicopter mechanic and now I fly Blackhawks I can't think of a cooler job. May be a repeat lotto winner.

yodafan93

http://www.22reperformance.com/22RE_...t_Engines.html

thats putney's custom machine shop.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

No such thing as the wrong year when it comes to 20R and 22R engines since they both mount in the same location. A 20R to 22R swap is a walk in the park especially if you are wanting to dump the old 4speed tranny. If you go with a 22RE then you get into wiring complications. Only problem is that if you go with a longer 5speed tranny (Like a L52) you will have to shorten your rear driveshaft and lengthen your front or find the appropriate replacements. With a $3,500 budget you should be good with your desires - there are some good engine builders out there that should be able to keep you in your budget. Worst case scenario, buy a decent used 22R and rebuild it yourself - if you can wrench on helicopters then you can rebuild a 22R. You can check out my 22R rebuild thread in my signature. I went from a pretty nasty 22R to show piece for about $1,450 (includes machine work, valves, springs, pistons, bearings, gaskets, camshaft, timing chain kit, timing cover, oil pump, seals, desmog plates, hoses, fuel pump, head bolts, distributor, wires, wire loom, fuel pressure regulator, fan clutch, hardware, some dress up materials, etc). Took a couple of months to complete because I had limited time with a newborn running around and I was meticulously cleaning and painting each part before it went back on, but I could have had in done in less than a week if I had more time and wasn't as meticulous.

As far as rust, good luck with the "Stopping it for now" approach. I completely disassembled my truck down to the bare frame to rid myself of rust (see my build thread). I sandblasted the frame and axles, a patched a couple spots in the frame before I used POR-15 to seal it and POR-15 Chassis Coat top coat. I am very satisfied with the POR-15 so far, but from what I understand it does not perform well on a surface that isn't well prepped. You can spray some high solids chassis paint on your rust spots and it will keep water out, but it also keeps in the moisture that is already there. My recommendation is that since the truck has already survived 30+ years, how much more damage can a little more time do to it? Just get it covered from the elements the best you can and when you come back start doing the repairs the right way. Not to mention, any band aids that you put on there now will eventually have to come off to fix it the right way and taking them off is a lot harder than putting them on.

Good luck with which ever approach you take and I hope you return safe from your deployment. Thank you for serving our Country!

Bingle

I agree with everything Kawa said except the driveline lengthening/shortening, all "L" series trannys are the same length. You would only have to get an L50 or L52 (go with the 52 unless you found a 50 for a screaming deal, mine lasted 420,000mi) and bolt it to your transfer case.
The proof:
http://www.marlincrawler.com/tech/tr...ar-ratio-chart
far right gives trans length.

Good luck and thank you for your service.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

I think Bingle has me there. I thought that the 5speed was longer than the 4speed. Hopefully that is clarified for you - should make it even easier!