Bought a new Pro distributor from lCE into my 20R because my vacuum advance stopped working, the new distributor worked great for the first 10 minutes then started missing and felt like ignition cutting in and out. Put my old distributor back in and no problem. What can cause a new distributor to start acting up like that? Have a GM hei ignition module and accel super coil. The only issue I came across is the ohm reading on LCE distributor is 210 and FSM calls for 140-180 ohms. I’m not sure if this could be an issue. Thanks for any help

 

Strange. I'm not sure on the ohm reading and it's possible cause of problems, sorry.
I've been running one of those, but without the vac advance module (because of sidedrafts), and full MSD ignition for ~15 years without problem.
Dumb question, just to be sure, you did set the initial timing with the vac advance unhooked, right? I assume you did because you referenced the FSM, but it's the only thing that comes to mind right off.
LCE's tech department is really good and could likely tell you pretty quick if they sent you a lemon or if there's some other issue.

Good luck and please post back with whatever the solution ends up being.
I'm curious at least.

 

Thanks for the response bingle, Yes I plugged the vacuum and set timing first, interesting, I also have sidedrafts, weber dcoe 40's, do you suggest not running vacuum advance with them? I get about 10 mpg with the set up, trying to squeeze a bit more mpg's that why I bought a new distributor in the first place. I noticed my fuel pressure guage was reading a little low, I just ordered a new redline one cause this holley dial regulator is garbage and cant get consistent readings. The only thing I found is the oem reading on the magnetic pickup is a little higher then spec, not sure if that reading should be done cold or after it gets warm. LCE seems a little stumped too. They cant give a positive answer to me. So im stuck here aggravated at the whole situation.

 

FYI I've found my fuel pressure gage to be completely inaccurate when warm...I feel like it's poorly documented but you gotta set them when cold.

 

Do the 40DCOE's have a vacuum port for the advance? The 45's don't so that's why I ran the purely mechanical advance. I could be wrong, but I believe that the port for vac advance that are built into carbs act differently than pulling vac direct off the manifold (if that's what you're doing).
10 mpg you likely have something wrong. Geared right for the tire size?
Things to check. Float bowls set correct? Fuel psi to carbs at 1.5 psi? Carbs synced up?
Check that advance is working properly:
warmed up at idle, vac advance hooked up, timing should read 8°-12°. (Mine likes to be closer to 14°, but the dizzy is different.)
roll on the throttle while still watching the timing and it should climb pretty even with RPM's to around 32° at full advance at around 2500rpm.

Manual choke (one or both) aren't hung up and not closing all the way, right?

With the mpg and everything else I was thinking you may have multiple issues that are compounding.
As a previous owner of the DCOE's, I would highly recommend getting the Haynes Weber carb manual, if you don't already have a good DCOE tuning manual.

I'll reply when I can and try to help you work through this.
Good luck!