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I'm finally at the point in my life where I can afford to look for a vehicle I want instead of whatever old beater I can afford, and I've decided I want an even older vehicle. I've liked Hilux's ever since I saw Top Gears destruction episodes as a kid, and I want one.
Every vehicle I've own has died due to electrical/computer issues that I can't fix myself and cost more than the vehicle to fix, so I want to skip that entirely and go for a first gen pickup without the electrical systems to have problems with. My understanding is that before 84 they were carbureted with no ECM? Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Either point of this post is that I'm looking for a truck a good bit older than I am, and I was hoping for advice on known issues to keep an eye out for. Rust in the bed or around the front body mounts under the floor material I've picked up from reading other threads, but I'm worried about mechanical issues.
I want the truck for a durable and reliable daily driver, and unless I see a really good deal I'd want it running to drive home, which is likely to be a 3+ hour drive from a population centre unless I get lucky. That means I kinda need it to work ok from the get go and not break something on the way home.
In addition to common issues what kind of information would you want from the owner if you were buying one of these trucks? As I said this is the first time I've been able to take my time and shop around.
If you want a pre-84 4wd that is ready to go as a DD, you'll probably have to spend a decent amount of money. Do you have a budget in mind? Is 4wd what you are looking for, a 2wd will probably be cheaper. I believe you could get a carb up to 1986 or 87, someone who knows more will have to correct me there. Everything is fixable for a price, so it depends on what you are looking for. I'd avoid trucks from the North East as they are likely to suffer from the most devasting rust. A truck from the SouthWest will have the least rust. I don't know of any major mechanical issues to look out for. Depending on the mileage of the engine and it's maint history any vintage Toyota truck will require timing chain at some point, also if it has a lot of miles, it might need some more extensive engine work (machine work, head).
I definitely need 4wd as the local roads aren't always there. I'm in the Canadian Prairies so pretty much anywhere is a long way away. I can work on non pressing mechanical issues over time as I have access to a shop and tools. I'm more worried about things that could go wrong on the way back with a truck that I should watch for before I buy.
For budget I could probably justify up to 10k Canadian if I don't need to spend much more on it, but I'm trying to make sure I set expectations before I set a budget. Also depends significantly on how harvest goes this year.
Trying to comb through old classifieds here and elsewhere it seems like they can go from 500 to 20k, although it seems like the decent condition mostly stock I'm looking for would fall in the middle of that range. Any advice on that front would also be appreciated.
10k Canadian is right at 8k USD right now, which in the states, could get you a really nice 1st Gen truck in well-maintained or partially-restored condition. You've still gotta do your homework, carefully look the truck over and have it's maintenance records in-hand, because some people will try to make a turd look and sound good enough for high-dollar. The hardest part will be finding a person who wants to part with their vintage 4wd. As you found out, the best examples now cost as much as a new car.
Stuff to look out for:
Climb under the truck with a flashlight and check for leaks at the engine, transmission, t-case output seals, differentials, steering knuckles. Make sure the exhaust is solid. Are the brake lines rusted? If you can smell gas there's likely a fuel leak. Now climb out and inspect the engine bay. Look and feel around for oil/coolant leaks (the block and timing cover are harder to clean off real quick for a prospective buyer, so check under the exhaust manifold, intake and behind the accessory drive belts).
The 20/22r should start quickly and idle smooth, without hesitation or much shaking.
Driveline should feel tight and not wander while holding a straight line.
After a test drive, check for leaks again and if it checks out or you found a small problem that you can use to haggle the price, grab it and drive home!
Check the frame for rust. My 81 had minor rust in the lower front fenders, cab floor, and the bed floor is pretty bad from having a plastic bed liner in it at some point, but the biggest problem showed up after a few years of daily driving it, and that was frame rust. I didn't even know it showed up until I could see the bed and cab separating when I went over a bump, or on acceleration, and deceleration. I think the gas tank was the only thing holding it together. I think I have a post on here someplace showing how I fixed it, it was a big job that wasn't easy.
Here's the link to my frame repair post. This frame looked good when I bought the truck, but it was rusting from the inside out. This showed up after driving it for a few years. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...frames-292092/
Agreed ^
all very good tips. Other things to check: WIRING, if you see a lot of no factory or unfinished wiring, run away as fast as you can. The wiring should look clean and uniform. Other is to pull the floor mat if there is one. A leaking clutch master over the years leaks into the cab, but under the vinyl and causes major damage. The inner frame rail (as mentioned above) where the gas tank is along with the brake and fuel lines in that area are prone to rot. If you have time, pull the wheels and inspect how the brakes are maintained. If there is a lack of maintenance on one of the most important parts of the truck, just leave it on blocks and run. Pay attention to the roof cap especially around the windshield for rot or bad bondo repairs. Look inside the headliner, you'll be able to see anything that may be hiding. Too bad you need a 4x4. I've got a very good rust free 2wd for sale. Good luck with your search. For that kind of $, you should be able to find a very clean and well maintained rig.
P.S. If the p/o just "detailed" the engine, make sure you run it well to find leaks. I myself like to see normal dirt and dust, always helps locate issues
Ok, list of places to check will be super helpful.
For frame rust, assuming I don't/can't see any before purchase, and I do buy, do you think it'd be a good or bad idea to drill a hole in a less load bearing part of the frame and snake a camera inside? I could then tap the hole, fill it with old oil, and screw a bolt back in there if it isn't bad?
I'm not sure if I'd have time to do a good inspection, depends where/when and from whom I end up finding one. I'd likely be hours from home so I might consider taking it to a mechanic for a once over for issues, ideally with sellers permission as part of test drive. How attached is the vinyl in the floor usually? With it being a major place for rust and if there's a potential for signs of a clutch leak there as well it's sounding more like I really want to check that, but I don't think I can really go pulling apart a vintage truck before buying.
That 2wd looks real pretty, and that's pretty much the colour I'd like as well. I assume because of where I am almost all of the ads I've seen have the trucks at least partially lifted so it almost looks weird to see one at a more normal height.
Check that timing chain! It should have the appropriate amount of slack and the guides should be intact, preferably metal backed on the the driver's side!
Check the rockers under the carpet or vinyl! You don't want holes in the floor!
And like I ALWAYS suggest:
Crank it up. Watch it run. Walk around. Drive it. Leave it running. Look some more. Run it for 30 minutes AT LEAST.... you will know if there's an issue with it overheating... If they pressure you to turn it off FOR ANY REASON.... be suspect
As for checking the floor under the vinyl or carpet, it's real easy. It isn't glued to the floor, but held down by the plastic scuff guards atop the rockers (4 Philips screws) and the kick panel protecting the fuse block wiring (2 Phillips screws).
Bring a screwdriver and let the seller know you need to look at the floor before you buy. The scuff guard screws spread 2 plastic tabs molded to the underside of the guard, so they can't rust and won't be tight. Screw them back in gently so they don't strip the plastic. Remove the 2 screws on the kick panel and wiggle it out. There might be a couple Velcro patches on the floor covering but I doubt they'll be sticking anymore. Lift the carpet out from under the pedals and hopefully see solid painted metal floor pans.
Another thing to consider is the transmission. I have a 1980 and as it sits it has the stock L43 4-speed transmission. I was driving it to work on the freeway and I was at about 3700 rpm at 65 mph (100 kph). I was filling it up twice a week. If you can get a 5 speed or regear the rear end you would be better in the fuel economy department. That being said I don't know how far you plan to drive the thing every day. If you have the valve cover off to check the timing chain, check for the bolt near the top to be ground down. This happens with a slack chain, and a red flag as far as the timing chain is concerned. Also check the windshield seal for dry rot. That will allow water to run inside the cab and get under the flooring. I had to cut a few pieces out of my truck and weld in some new ones for that very reason.
08-21-2017, 06:24 AM
