Manual choke wire routing
06-15-2017, 05:31 PM
#1
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Manual choke wire routing
I have a 1982 pickup I bought as to learn to work on engines. I got the engine rebuilt and went with a manual choke Weber 32/36. Probmel is the cable keeps binding on me. How do I rought the cable so I can operate the choke???
06-28-2017, 08:21 AM
#2
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I also have a 32/36 with manual choke. The pull knob for mine is located next to the cigarette lighter in that available round hole. It makes for a clean looking installation and the cable reaches the carburetor fine but I also have binding. I can pull mine out with relative ease but it will not close on it's own without popping the hood and pulling the choke lever closed by hand.
I bought the truck with the carburetor already set up this way and the previous owner told me that he installed it and then simply never used the choke. My plan was going to be to take some bicycle chain lube and pour a few drops down into the end of the cable housing just like you might do with a bike cable that's old and sticking. Unfortunately I'm not sure if this will work very well since there are some fundamental differences between the two. The carb cable is a single, hardened wire running through a metal housing and it doesn't appear that there's any kind of insulator between the two. Where as a bike cable is an actual cable made of multiple wires wrapped around one another, running through nylon insulated cable housing. Bike cables are also never pushed. Always pulled. The carb cable needs to be pushed from the knob to actuate the choke back open.
Sorry I'm not of more help but perhaps our combined brain power can work out a solution!
I bought the truck with the carburetor already set up this way and the previous owner told me that he installed it and then simply never used the choke. My plan was going to be to take some bicycle chain lube and pour a few drops down into the end of the cable housing just like you might do with a bike cable that's old and sticking. Unfortunately I'm not sure if this will work very well since there are some fundamental differences between the two. The carb cable is a single, hardened wire running through a metal housing and it doesn't appear that there's any kind of insulator between the two. Where as a bike cable is an actual cable made of multiple wires wrapped around one another, running through nylon insulated cable housing. Bike cables are also never pushed. Always pulled. The carb cable needs to be pushed from the knob to actuate the choke back open.
Sorry I'm not of more help but perhaps our combined brain power can work out a solution!
06-28-2017, 02:14 PM
#4
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07-05-2017, 02:45 PM
#5
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07-05-2017, 02:51 PM
#6
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It's hard to figure out how your cable is binding without seeing how you installed it. I put a manual choke Weber on my 78. I just followed the instructions and did what made sense as I was looking at it, and it always worked fine.
If you know what you're looking for, you can see the cable coming out of the back of the carb, then just in front of the PCV, bending around between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs, then going through the firewall just over the small coolant hose on the driver side. As you can see, not a very skilled or careful installation. Just kind of shoved in there with probably too much slack.
Inside
If you know what you're looking for, you can see the cable coming out of the back of the carb, then just in front of the PCV, bending around between the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs, then going through the firewall just over the small coolant hose on the driver side. As you can see, not a very skilled or careful installation. Just kind of shoved in there with probably too much slack.
Inside
Last edited by 83; 07-05-2017 at 06:00 PM.
