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I have a small problem here. I just picked up an 1982 4x4 pickup. 22r with carb and electric choke. I have been able to spend a lil bit of time with the truck, on cold start it will not idle high. Before starting, I press the fuel one time, turn it over and it will hit. Do this about three times, it will start as long as you are controlling the throttle to keep it running. Once it is warm it will idle good, needs maybe a small adjustment. I went to adjust the idle and the idle screw has no effect on the engine at all. Maybe because the back of the screw is not up against anything, it appears something is supposed to snap on for the screw to rest against. Any thoughts?
I believe that screw will raise the idle when the A/C is activated (if equipped) and is also used by the emissions on CA vehicles to open the throttle on deceleration. It should rest against a vacuum actuator, but there may not be one if its a non-CA and non-AC truck. On my 78 that actuator and screw is on the front, but I remember reading they moved them to the back on later years.
If the screws not affecting the idle I wouldn't worry with it (I only mention because on my 78 I chased my tail for weeks because it would not idle down and it was that screw making it idle high)
I have a full tune up on the way for it - plugs, wires, cap, button, changed voltage regulator and replaced the Alternator. It had a small gas leak (the accelerator pump was leaking) so I removed it, cleaned it up a lil up and put it back no more gas leak. But the AP was not in good condition it had some rough places on the metal ring so I am almost sure it is no good. But that lil part costs over 50 bucks. Can get a new weber for a lil over 200 and remove all those horrible vacuum lines. The truck idles fairly well when it is at operating temp, the tach does not work so I am not sure what the rpms (on the to do list) are but it idles super smooth. But its hard to start and takes a lot of effort to keep it running until it warms up because the fast idle does not work. I honestly think I am missing a part of the fast idle screw assembly and I think the a/c throttle up screw is missing , I will take some pics tomorrow I am pretty sure I am going spend the money and get a weber carb.
I took some pictures today, it appears to me it is missing the high idle control screw and maybe something else because the high idle ac screw isn't touching anything. The high idle seems like it has been plugged up with some vacuum hose with a screw in the end but maybe its something else. That's why I am coming to experts. And the electric choke is wired up, sketchy at best and honestly I think it is my problem. All input will be appreciated.
I found this pic on another forum. It appears my carb is missing some of these components. I am really leaning on getting a weber but I would hate to trash this carb if it can be saved without rebuilding it. So please if you can tell me what I need to do to repair my carb before I scrap it.
I changed the plugs, wires, cap, button and deleted the egr on Saturday. It made a big difference on starting the truck and had a lil more pick me up, money well spent. But I am going to go ahead and get a weber carb so I can delete all the emissions. It should be here Thursday or Friday. Any pointers on the weber install? I have all block plates and the intake plug kit. This 35 year old 22r will finally be able to breath!
But I am going to go ahead and get a weber carb so I can delete all the emissions. It should be here Thursday or Friday. Any pointers on the weber install? I have all block plates and the intake plug kit. This 35 year old 22r will finally be able to breath!
There is more to getting a 32/36 to work right than just bolting it on. Depending on the jets installed you may need to rejet it. If you have non stock items - like headers, or have it timed differently, expect to rejet. You will need to make sure the fuel pressure doesn't exceed 2.5 psi. The 22r is more of a torque engine not a rev'er.
The truck seems to be mostly stock minus the exhaust. No header. Well if it rejects it, it rejects it but I like to keep it on the sunny side. I will post an update when I start the install.
First to make a correction of your terminology, the stock Aisan carburetors have an "Automatic Choke", not an electric choke. I dose not need 12 volt power to set the choke. It uses 12 volts to remove the choke.
On a cold start, the "Fast Idle Circuit" is controlled mechanically. When you pump the accelerator pedal, a spring on the circuit closes the stepper-arm on the Fast Idle Circuit, see the pics below.
As the the engine warms up, two things happen to the carburetor. The 12 volts being supplied to the choke coil (Automatic Choke) heats the choke coil and expands the coil. This in turn open the coke valve. See pic below. Ignore the relay in that picture as the 22Rs in the trucks don't use them.
The choke coil & valve is indirectly connected to the Fast Idle Cam via the mechanical choke linkage. The choke valve could be opened all the way, but the fast idle cam can still have the idle set high.
Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the Bi-Metal Vacuum Switch Valve (BVSV) on the intake manifold will forcibly remove the choke circuit & the fast idle circuit. In the pic below, the BVSV is at the top right with the vacuum hoses on it.
05-07-2017, 05:27 PM
