How often do you start it? Sorry if we've been over this before. I don't really drive my truck in the winter. If I don't start it for a few days, it takes a good 30 seconds to a minute to fire. I think the fuel drains back into the tank and has to work its way all the way back up to the carb.

But I'm guessing you let it crank long enough to find out if that's all it is.

I'm not sure what to tell you from here.

 

Yes I definitely let it crank quite a while.

 

definitely seems like a fuel issue. wonder if some seafoam might clean out the carb a little?

sorry my suggestion didnt fix it. couldve sworn that would do it

 

No problem and because of the remote traveling I'll be doing in this thing it was probably a good idea to replace the fuel pump anyway. I'll keep the old one as a spare.

Have you had good results with Seafoam?

 

Seafoam is gods gift to old cars!! Even if it doesn't fix it it wont hurt it I do it to every rig I buy. You should get your compression checked the reason why is because once an engine is started and running it creates alot of compression due to speed. A motor with say bad rings will fire with a little help because either is very combustible and causes instant compression. Then with the turning of the crank some oil is added to the cylinder wall and you now have much better compression. I would say if it is not surging or idling abnormally your carb is fine all jets are clean and spraying plenty of fuel. If it has good comp i.e. 100+ psi then do a "leak down test" you could have bad valve seats or too much carbon causing a seating issue (seafoam will help that!!!!).

 

Okay then. I need to change the oil anyway so I will do some Seafoam first.

I did a dry compression test yesterday ($25 compression gauge from Harbor Freight) and it was 118 to 120 PSI across all four cylinders. Its a 22R with 60,000 original miles. I'm glad it was so even but isn't 120 PSI really low?

EDIT: Once started with the starter fluid there is NO surging or abnormal idling.

 

Not for a four stroke. In fact 120 is great!!
Make sure your accelerator pump is working if you have a bad diaphragm it could not be sending fuel when you pump the pedal. Still do a leak down and did you hold the pedal to the floor when you did the comp test? If not re do it that way.

 

Also just a thought a Holley never hurt those old 22r's

 

Questions please...

1) Where is the accelerator pump and how do you check it?

2) I didn't touch the accelerator at all when I did the compression test because I knew it wouldn't start without starter fluid. Also, I didn't think I was even supposed to press the accelerator when doing a compression test??

3) What is a "leak down" and how do you do it?

4) Does a Holley carb say "Holley" on it? Mine says "Aisan" on it. (see photo below)

Thanks

 

i run seafoam as maintenance. never really noticed a difference in anything i've driven after doing seafoam, but thats the point of maintenance right?

 

the point of holding the pedal open when doing a compression test is so the engine can suck in as much fuel mixture (air) as possible. it will give you larger numbers. just unplug the coil and you wont have to worry about it starting accidentally on you.

google leak down test. you'll find lots of info. basically you are applying air pressure and see if there are any leaks anywhere. its used a lot to determine head gasket leaks. at least thats what i know its used for.

 

Your cab is a stock Aisin (Toyota) carb. No need to throw a bunch of money at "upgraded" parts (upgrade in quotes because it's debatable whether most of the things you can do are really improvements over stock), unless you just feel like spending some money.

If you need to spray starter fluid to get it to start, I would think it's absolutely a fuel issue, and possibly the carb.

I'm just at a point where I'm not sure what to tell you anymore, and I don't want to suggest spending money replacing parts when I can't be sure they'll help. You could use someone who understands carbs taking a look at yours, in-person.

All of what you're getting is good advice, as long as you realize that it's a diagnosis over the internet. Not being there makes it guess work. If you're willing to spend the money, we're all willing to throw suggestions at you...but I hate to see someone throwing money at a bunch of other people's hunches. So...just do more testing than spending, and you should come out ok. If nothing else, you are getting some new parts that it could probably use anyway.

 

1 It is attached to the carb and the best way to see if its working is to just look down the carb and open the throttle fast. You should see and hear fuel go down the barrel.

2 Yes always hold the throttle open (unplug all the spark plug wires first) It allows the maximum amount of air to be sucked into the cylinder for the most accurate reading.

3 It is kinda the opposite of a comp test. You will get a thing with 2 gauges on it (most auto parts shop have them for rent). Hook it up to a compressor and after setting the cylinder you are testing to Top Dead Center of the compression stroke fill with air, lock it in, and check the gauges for any sign of leak. There is an acceptable rate and it depends on the set up you have and how much air is being held. if it leaks faster then that you have a problem. example: say the tolerance is 4 psi a min anything 5 and above is no good.

4 yes a Holley will say Holley on it they are all after market "performance" carbs. Aisan is a stock carb. I was just being sarcastic. There is nothing wrong with a stock carb after all these yota motors are the AK of the engine world undeniably reliable no matter what you do to it (except no oil that never works out very well).

 

I'm sure it's been said before but I spoke with my friend about the starting issue and we both think you may have a non working accelerator pump.
When you pump the gas pedal the pump squirts gas down the carb throat.
It may be that the line is plugged from sitting for extended periods, which is common for motor homes. Having the carb rebuilt is probably a good idea. Lots of people say put on an aftermarket (Holley) and that wouldn't hurt, I'm of the mind if it works don't f with it.
FunRunner 88 was mostly right in his description in #1
If you start and warm the engine first it's a little easier.
Now without the engine running remove the air cleaner, looking down the carb throat you can operate the throttle "cam" by twisting it where the cable mounts to the carb at the firewall side. This is the same as having someone inside pushing on the pedal. You should be able to see or hear a small squirt and smell gas if it is working.
Don't do this a bunch of times as it could "flood" the engine.
I talked with my mechanic friend and we both think that is the "spray start" problem but like 83 said we aren't there, just throwing out guesses.

 

MYSTERY SOLVED! It turns out the choke wasn't closing which is why I could never get it started when cold without starter fluid. The problem is that I thought the choke was on the right...and we all know its on the left! Yeah, duh, right? Anyway, I sprayed the heck out of the linkage yesterday with WD40 a couple times and worked everything and now she starts up pretty fast when cold.

While idling while I hit the gas pedal really hard and fast (much harder and faster than I would ever do while driving) it will bog down and even stall depending on how hard I push down. Does anyone know what that might be caused from?

 

I just hate it when the obvious smacks me in the face. Glad you got it figured out.
Now you can help somebody else when they have this problem.

 

Nice! Good work.

Avoid WD40. It will lube things, then attract every bit of dirt and gunk that comes near it and make the linkage dirtier than it ever was...

 

congrats on the find, glad you figured it out

 

But do any of you know what this could be...

When I stomp on the gas pedal really hard and fast (much harder and faster than I would ever do while driving) it will bog down and even stall depending on how hard I stomp on it. Does anyone know what that might be caused from?

 

The accelerator pump (the thing that squirts the gas) may not be working too. It puts extra gas in the intake until the vacuum of the carb catches up.
Sounds like rebuild it time to me.